Holy balls. Bet he has an SRA though! We'll see what happens with the transmission. As I said, I want something that will handle the proper power, but will also be at least somewhat driveable, mind you this won't be a daily.
Thanks! :beer:
Prospective '99 TT Build
- Thread starter pbeechner
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Holy balls. Bet he has an SRA though! We'll see what happens with the transmission. As I said, I want something that will handle the proper power, but will also be at least somewhat driveable, mind you this won't be a daily.
Thanks! :beer:
That was a SRA, correct. The IRS is plenty capable...when built right.
1.38 60ft - YouTube
Thats the same 60ft time as the twin 50mm SRA cobra in the previous post.
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Meh, according to my calculations it is gonna be closer to 30,000. Unless I'm doing something wrong haha :shrug: But yeah, I am not gonna be cheap on it and would pay for higher quality.
I would love to know how that IRS was built. Gotta figure that out for mine haha
Also why would you swap from 3.27's to 3.55's on a turbo build?
I would look into what it would take to get a custom turbo kit made for your car. It seems all kits need some modification at some point. Might as well do it right in the beginning.
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Right, I was also thinking about that. I just don't know of any good shops/companies for mustang turbo builds up here in New England. However I would consider travelling.
snakeraper - I have 3.73s currently, not sure I want that gearing with turbo(s)
With any turbo cobra set up your ideal gear is 3.27. Possibly 3.08 if youre making huge power along with a few other factors, but thats definitely more rare of a set up. The HPP kit requires zero alteration of anything and includes everything you need. Its a top of the line kit, the best on the market by far. At 8,000 out the door, you wont find a shop that will craft you something this good for that price.
HPP Twin Turbo Kit | 2003 - 2004 SVT Cobra
Also I see youre wanting "'99 Cobra Level 5 Halfshafts with Chromoly inner CV". It would be better if you went with a ford racing 31 spline diff with carbon clutch pack and 03-04 cobra halfshafts. It'll save you money and still be a massive upgrade over your stock set up. Youre going to be changing the ring gear, might as well do it right. The level 5 half shafts have been plagued with failures and I personally would stay away from them. If you start breaking the 03 04 halfshafts, then I mightttttttt consider the level 5's, but probably not. If you dont hop, you should be good.
And what makes you say that? Thats like saying every N/A 4v car needs 4.10s to be the fastest. But a higher gear is needed for optimal performance whether 3.55 3.31 3.27 etc. Not every set up is the same therefore the gears dont need to be the same. A 3.55 and a 3.27 is very comparable and will still place a good load on the turbo. Gear choice can be influenced on a few things like turbo size, torque, overall power, goals. Ive personally seen a 3.55 geared turbo mach outrun a 3.27 geared 01 cobra all night consistantly in the 1/4 mile. The turbo mach made rougly 25 hp less than the cobra as well.
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Thanks for the input guys. I am still up in the air trying to decide between 3.27 and 3.55 gears. I do want to put a good load on the turbo, but I wish to preserve the rear end as well. As far as the diff and halfshafts go, I was planning on a detroit locker 31 spline diff. I want to go with the level 5 halfshafts because if I go with 03/04 halfshafts, then there is more of a possibility of breaking them than if I go with level 5 halfshafts. Especially since I am planning on going to the strip and the track. I also don't plan on driving it particularly gently after investing 30k.
yes, forget the level 5's and either go pro level or SRA.
either built t-56 or built auto, don't ever put something in that "may live for a while"
twin 57's can make more power than any drag radial can handle (on the street)
do a lot of searching/reading before you pick a particular shop for the short block, cams etc.
make your fuel system capable of a minimum of 100hp more than your goal (just trust me on this one)
our cars already have 7qt oil pans, the bigger oil pans hold closer to 9. If your not road racing it, then spend your money elsewhere.
you are being realistic about the money and that's good, my guess is you will end up north of 30k.
take a look at my build, it's been a year and half, don't know if I'm at 30k, but I know I'm over 20k.
My last piece of advice is to upgrade to billet i-beam rods, with what your planning, when you add race gas and turn up the boost you will be at the limits of the those h-beams.
either built t-56 or built auto, don't ever put something in that "may live for a while"
twin 57's can make more power than any drag radial can handle (on the street)
do a lot of searching/reading before you pick a particular shop for the short block, cams etc.
make your fuel system capable of a minimum of 100hp more than your goal (just trust me on this one)
our cars already have 7qt oil pans, the bigger oil pans hold closer to 9. If your not road racing it, then spend your money elsewhere.
you are being realistic about the money and that's good, my guess is you will end up north of 30k.
take a look at my build, it's been a year and half, don't know if I'm at 30k, but I know I'm over 20k.
My last piece of advice is to upgrade to billet i-beam rods, with what your planning, when you add race gas and turn up the boost you will be at the limits of the those h-beams.
Ok, I just saw the new pro-level halfshafts on the DSS website. I will go as built as I need to assure reliability. Again, I know the money and I don't plan on being cheap. Hopefully a built T56 will do what I want it to. I'm still not interested in an auto, even though it will be a good bit faster than the T56.
As far as the rear end, I think to go with pro-level halfshafts, detroit locker 31 spline diff, 3.55 gears, FRPP IRS girdle, FTBR front torque brace, FTBR bushings, Billetflow diff brace.
Any suggestions other than that to make sure I don't destroy my rear end?
As far as the rear end, I think to go with pro-level halfshafts, detroit locker 31 spline diff, 3.55 gears, FRPP IRS girdle, FTBR front torque brace, FTBR bushings, Billetflow diff brace.
Any suggestions other than that to make sure I don't destroy my rear end?
Ask anyone who knows turbo cobras, see what they say. I'm not even going to argue this. but 3.55's with twin 60's-67's and a 900 hp goal...? You want some 4.10's with your 700 hp whipple too?
On the other hand, I find it ironic that you would counter my opinion with a brash generalization based on the result of 2 cars after you just shot down a well known fact, calling it generalized...It may have made 25 peak HP more, but when did they start to build boost, when did their boost peak, who made more power across the rpm range, what was the torque, how was the suspension set up, driver experience comes into play, weight reduction, transmission gear ratios, tires.....
And just for the hell of it, every NA cobra should have 4.10's or better.:burn:
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op:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/852728-dss-pro-series-half-shafts.html
Its not being cheap. Its listening to the advice of people who have knowledge and not throwing away your hard earned money just because you have it. Just trying to steer you in the right direction on a forum where people are commonly misguided. Read Bruce's posts on that thread if you wont take my word for it.
first OP, go with a LPW of new ford racing diff cover not a brace
now to the dss axles. You might want to read the thread you posted again. Bruce is talking about level 5's, NOT pro level. They are completly different.
The pro series have porsche 930 cv's with the upgraded chromoly cages. These cv's are used all over the desert racing community. Those vehicles have more hp than most cars on this forum and see more abuse in a weekend than our cars see in a year. Please find a thread about someone breaking thier pro level axles.
Bruce is a great guy, makes a great product and has great customer service (I have just about everything he makes in the back of my car.). But saying "whatever they are calling them this month" about the difference between level 5's and pro series was an uninformed statement (that's being nice)
Bruces complete kit, pro-series axles and one of the diff covers I mentioned above makes the toughest possible IRS you can make (from a cobra), period. Yes, i know a built 8.8 or 9" would be cheaper, but some people have money and want to keep the IRS.
now to the dss axles. You might want to read the thread you posted again. Bruce is talking about level 5's, NOT pro level. They are completly different.
The pro series have porsche 930 cv's with the upgraded chromoly cages. These cv's are used all over the desert racing community. Those vehicles have more hp than most cars on this forum and see more abuse in a weekend than our cars see in a year. Please find a thread about someone breaking thier pro level axles.
Bruce is a great guy, makes a great product and has great customer service (I have just about everything he makes in the back of my car.). But saying "whatever they are calling them this month" about the difference between level 5's and pro series was an uninformed statement (that's being nice)
Bruces complete kit, pro-series axles and one of the diff covers I mentioned above makes the toughest possible IRS you can make (from a cobra), period. Yes, i know a built 8.8 or 9" would be cheaper, but some people have money and want to keep the IRS.
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Hey thanks a lot. I had remembered looking at those LPW covers and don't know why that wasn't on my list. Still planning on keeping the IRS. I would rather spend the money on beefing up the IRS than go to a solid rear. I came from the BMW community and am really attached to my IRS :banana:
Thanks guys for the advice! I narrowed it down to one of two turbo setups too. Twin 57 ball bearings, or a single 76 ball bearing. I really want something reasonably driveable with a relatively quick spool as well and I'm not dead set on twins.
Thanks!
Thanks guys for the advice! I narrowed it down to one of two turbo setups too. Twin 57 ball bearings, or a single 76 ball bearing. I really want something reasonably driveable with a relatively quick spool as well and I'm not dead set on twins.
Thanks!
If you go single T76 then see about a custom kit. Some single kits, like Hellion, are excellent quality, but overpriced. I had one and wish I never bought it when I added up all the stuff it didn't come with for the money.
I think you can buy a hotside form MMR for a single, then you could pick up the rest and have someone make you a blow thru MAF setup for the cold side. You may end up saving some money. Don't know the MMR hotside quality though.
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