Official UOA thread with oil poll

[shadyninja]

I have never heard of that with an oil sample. It probably went to the wrong place. That's why I use UPS only.

I have. , the post office refused to take my oil sample.

I always use ups now. It is only like a buck more than mailing it.

 

[SuperFly03]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tf7v9a34a4btwk2/GT500-080213.pdf

Got my oil analysis back. Apparently the USPS didn't screw me like I thought they did.

What does it all mean? I am not sure what all the excess iron and lead mean.

Thanks

 

[UnleashedBeast]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tf7v9a34a4btwk2/GT500-080213.pdf

Got my oil analysis back. Apparently the USPS didn't screw me like I thought they did.

What does it all mean? I am not sure what all the excess iron and lead mean.

Thanks

Castrol 10W-50 @ 4,500 miles.

Lead is higher than expected, but nothing like the worst I've seen from Red Line 5W-50. Iron @ 35 ppm may be higher than norm for an engine with 45,000 miles on it. Do you race this car? Drive WOT frequently taking it to red line? This is an iron block, so higher iron ppm isn't uncommon. One trend I am noticing about 50 grade lubricants in this engine. The longer they remain a 50 grade (shearing resistance) the higher lead ppm wear is. Red Line 5W-50 retains its 50 grade viscosity throughout the oil change interval. It's a strong correlation.

ZDDP looks really good, but TBN/Calcium is low for only 4,500 miles on the lubricant. This seems to be a racing style formulated lubricant, judging from the specs.

Viscosity also sheared from a 50 grade lubricant. It's now a mid grade 40 weight. I had to look up the specs, confirming I was right about it being a racing lubricant. cSt @ 100*F is 17.0

The sample sheared (thinned) about 15%.

Thanks for the sample. I'm adding it to the chart.

 

[SuperFly03]

Castrol 10W-50 @ 4,500 miles.

Lead is higher than expected, but nothing like the worst I've seen from Red Line 5W-50. Iron @ 35 ppm may be higher than norm for an engine with 45,000 miles on it. Do you race this car? Drive WOT frequently taking it to red line? This is an iron block, so higher iron ppm isn't uncommon.

ZDDP looks really good, but TBN/Calcium is low for only 4,500 miles on the lubricant. This seems to be a racing style formulated lubricant, judging from the specs.

Viscosity also sheared from a 50 grade lubricant. It's now a mid grade 40 weight.

Thanks for the sample. I'm adding it to the chart.

Yes, I ride her hard. I don't do drag but I will run it WOT to 150 as often add I get the chance. I love the pull. I run it up to 6500 rpm (tune lifted the rpm limit).

It's the Castrol 10w50. Should I go 10 w 40 next go around?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Excel spreadsheet has been updated with the latest submitted samples. Pay close attention to the new Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 sample. Iron wear @ 1750 miles is 114 ppm. The sample was originally sent to Polaris Labs, then confirmed to be accurate by Dyson Labs.

Something is terribly wrong in the Royal Purple camp.

I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. It would have never come this far without member support.

 

[Sulli99van]

Slim line dual fan setup to replace stock fan.

 

[dirtychamba]

So I'm getting the Kenne bell 2.8LC mammoth kit put on this week with van's DUAL HE.

I noticed KB comes with a different thermostat, I'm guessing 170?

which oil do you guys recommend with this setup?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

So I'm getting the Kenne bell 2.8LC mammoth kit put on this week with van's DUAL HE.

I noticed KB comes with a different thermostat, I'm guessing 170?

which oil do you guys recommend with this setup?

Assuming you will not be road course racing your car,

I'd use RD30, changing the oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Whichever occur first.

Use the EaO11 oil filter. You can use this filter on your engine for two oil changes using RD30. *up to one year*

 

[dirtychamba]

Assuming you will not be road course racing your car,

I'd use RD30, changing the oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Whichever occur first.

Use the EaO11 oil filter. You can use this filter on your engine for two oil changes using RD30. *up to one year*

Yea ill be daily driving my car and do some highway racing and drag strip racing here and there...

Thanks for the info!

 

[DaFreak]

Latest oil sample attached

Hi Troy,

Here's my latest report to add to the collection.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Thank you sir! Saved to my desktop to add to the chart.

 

[biminiLX]

Just received this today, from my 1950 mile '14 GT500.
My first UOA and this is from the factory first fill.
The car sat for approximately a week before I drove it to the local tire shop I trust, then this sample was taken before they filled with 5w40 Amsoil w/ Amsoil filter.
I took it to the track and ran 11.03@129 that same evening.
The car has a Lund mail-order tune (dyno'd 622/632 SAE the week after this), otherwise it is stock but runs very strong.
I'd love some feedback as the UOA flagged high levels of silicon (226) and oxidation (45), abnormal viscosity at 100*C (13.9) and mild fuel dilution (2.0-GC).
I drive the car at least once a week, its stored in a climate controlled garage and I wait until operating temp before getting on it, but I do go WOT regularly.
It will be receiving full bolt-on mods, include headers, o/r H-pipe, 170 stat and more boost. Most likely E85 also. I have but have not yet installed a Bob's oil separator. After the bolt-ons I planned on going to Amsoil Dominator oil.
Any input appreciated Beast!
-J

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Silicon in a GT500 engine will remain high until the 7th oil change or so, then it should be in the normal 15-20 ppm range. Your at 226 just tells me that this is the first fill you have drained from this engine. 100% normal, as you will see with other factory fills on the UOA chart (page 1 post 1).

Oxidation for Motorcraft is normal on this UOA. No worries there.

Everything on your UOA is as expected. No problems found. Keep on driving!

 

[biminiLX]

Great thanks. I will probably be doing just 2 changes a year.
What's your thoughts on storing a car--change the oil in the fall and then drive on old clean oil in the spring? or let it sit with dirty oil and clean before starting in the spring?
I just did the first oild change, then went to the track and then the dyno with the new Amsoil, but I'm thinking of draining it before storing soon, just seems like a waste of good oil, maybe put it in my dad's beater?
-J

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Storing a car....

Change the oil soon as you store it. In the spring, take the car for a long 1 hour drive. This will condition the lubricant for the entire season of use.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[NuclearPower]

Just sent Beast my latest sample of Amsoil 10W-40 from 7000 miles of mainly highway driving. Already have 44xxx miles on the car.:rolling:Might need to change my air filter again. Using the Airaid oiled blue that turns to grey ugly a$$ color. Maybe I just need to reoil?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Replace it with their blue Synthamax version. No oil required.

 

[NuclearPower]

I just checked the Airaid filter and it was quite gross. The side that faces the front duct was covered in thick black grease like gunk. I reinstalled my blue non-oiled filter that I had on the car before I bought the oiled one. Filter had 14000 miles on it, didn't realize it had been that long. That is probably why my silicon is high in the latest UOA, if Beast would get around to posting itoke:

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Here it is. Everything looks great, but silicon is trending up when it should be the same or less. However, seems like you isolated the problem.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Troy,

About to reorder for my GT500. Looks like the 10w40 I used was the 'Premium Protection'. Is this still the best option unless I went down to 10w30?

I've been running 5w30 Signature Series on my Cobra and ST.

Thanks!