Just Blew The Engine Up!

prn1972

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Heads can probably be repaired by machine / engine shop the stock crank is forged and you can pick up a new one for 3-400$ range, the blower should be able to be cleaned out but the blower & intercooler would be my main concern at this point. New complete shortblock repair heads and 50/50 chance just disassemble and clean blower & intercooler will work
It is all becoming a concern because the further I look the more money its costing me...lol
 

1FastFord

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sorry to hear OP. I don't know how you all do it and don't seem to be upset. If this was me I would be seriously fu**ed. I guess that is why I will be staying stock.
 

DEADLY FORCE

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If metal is in the intake, like mine was. I have no doubt that your supercharger ate a bunch of metal too. Just look at my previous post to give you an idea. My heads looked like they could have been salvageable believe it or not. Instead of worrying about what I would need to do to get my heads checked out in Germany, I went ahead and bought some 500 mile Aluminator take offs, which included the boss springs, and I am going with an MMR 1000, sleeved pro-mod block with 5.2 liter bore, coated piston dome, safer 10:1 compression, billet pump, all Arp hardware, oils squirter block offs and head cooling mod. I'm pretty sure I went overboard on this. Lol

Saving for a supercharger head unit at the moment along with fuel upgrades. Going to see about getting a VMP TVS, a 2.9 or a 4.0 whipple. Not looking to get my supercharger rebuilt at this time as it'll only be about $500.00 cheaper with all the damage I have. Would rather go new or with something bigger and not worry how good of a job they did fixing, balancing it when I go to spin the hell out of it. Bad thing about the 4.0 is it doesn't fit under the hood, it requires the 10 rib belt which would be 7 grand total and at that point I could just go turbo. So I'm still in the planning/saving up phase.
 

JP0814GT

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As a lower cost alternate i would choose Livernois due to they do all of there machine work in house no there not the cheapest but there good quality.
Also the RGR shortblocks but RGR you start getting more of a custom build he also does all machine work in house and hand builds every motor i like this because the engine starts the build process with Rich himself hands and ends with his hands. And this process logically should be one of the best quality control methods in my op.

OP your right about the money cost.. It adds up fast.. And it's easy for people on the forum to tell you how to spend your money! Haha.
 
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JP0814GT

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sorry to hear OP. I don't know how you all do it and don't seem to be upset. If this was me I would be seriously fu**ed. I guess that is why I will be staying stock.

I know what you mean mine stays stock this round till built motor is done. I do it because I love taking a stock car and turning it into a beast. It's addictive take my advice stay stock or you may never be the same. :D
 
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prn1972

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If metal is in the intake, like mine was. I have no doubt that your supercharger ate a bunch of metal too. Just look at my previous post to give you an idea. My heads looked like they could have been salvageable believe it or not. Instead of worrying about what I would need to do to get my heads checked out in Germany, I went ahead and bought some 500 mile Aluminator take offs, which included the boss springs, and I am going with an MMR 1000, sleeved pro-mod block with 5.2 liter bore, coated piston dome, safer 10:1 compression, billet pump, all Arp hardware, oils squirter block offs and head cooling mod. I'm pretty sure I went overboard on this. Lol

Saving for a supercharger head unit at the moment along with fuel upgrades. Going to see about getting a VMP TVS, a 2.9 or a 4.0 whipple. Not looking to get my supercharger rebuilt at this time as it'll only be about $500.00 cheaper with all the damage I have. Would rather go new or with something bigger and not worry how good of a job they did fixing, balancing it when I go to spin the hell out of it. Bad thing about the 4.0 is it doesn't fit under the hood, it requires the 10 rib belt which would be 7 grand total and at that point I could just go turbo. So I'm still in the planning/saving up phase.
I will probably be doing the same thing as you, probably MMR Boss long block, not sure about the blower yet, would like to go turbo
 

JP0814GT

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Turbo FTW.. I have yet to see a centri or a turbo with a blow through air to air config have a engine failure take the turbo or the centri head unit out of commission only a PD due to the mounting configuration. But I'm not sure it couldn't happen I've just never seen it happen other than PD's..
 
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1FastFord

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I know what you mean mine stays stock this round till built motor is done. I do it because I love taking a stock car and turning it into a beast. It's addictive take my advice stay stock or you may never be the same. :D

I know what you mean. I have had several stangs in the past and all modded. Now with kids and such, don't have the same ability to constantly spend on car. It's definitely a sickness.
 

Vert

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So if the cooler air and winter blend gas played a role in the destruction, would it make sense to switch to a 91 tune in the winter and still run 93 octane. I ask because I live in Indiana and once I sell my G8 I am picking up a stang and throwing a TVS on it. I know it is not a fail safe, but it could aide with the junk fuel in the colder months.
 

jjd975

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Either way I will play it safe & sleeve the block
My car is a street/show car, i like to drive it, I'm not storing barrels of race fuel in my garage & have to run home every time I need to fill up, there is no E85 here or I would run it, my best option is meth injection, Alky Control injection system are the best IMO & are made to run 100% methanol which is also best IMO, thats a whole other debate that goes both ways
I would like to ditch the BAP but don't want to spend these money on a return system, would like a bigger drop in pump which I know is being worked on
The 13, 14 Shelby guys have been porting the TVS & running 20-21lbs no problem, also seen a ported TVS lay down better numbers than a 2.9 whipple, both running 20.5lbs of boost with same bolt ons on same dyno
NOS would really just be for car shows, yeah I would run it on the dyno just to see some big numbers but that's it

You will love the meth. I have two friends that run it on high hp GNs.
Works well and its cheap.
 

JP0814GT

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jjd975:
One nice thing about running meth injection is it richins the afr too it's a independent system so it will aid the stock pump with bap so it will give you more capacity than running the stock pump with bap alone. I don't want a debate in this thread either but im of the belief that Alky control has the best thing going.
I liked running meth on my last car and its very cost efficient.
 
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me32

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it didn't go from 10.5 to 15lbs, the 75mm pulley is suppose to make 10.5lbs but with me tune & set it makes 15lbs. & it is 15lbs instant when you hit the throttle. it let go around 4500rpm where peak torque is. plus it was 30 degrees outside.

Tune was spot on, a/f stay at 11.5-11.6, I have aeroforce interceptor setup to tell me if it gets to lean at 5000rpm up, yes its on 93 pump with 15* timing down low & 13* timing up top.

Block or stock internal just couldn't handle the power, car lasted 6000 miles this way, like I said I knew I was pushing it.

Umm I think your wrong the 82mm is suppose to make 10psi and the 75mm is suppose to make 12psi with a CAI. With the cold air I can see it make 15psi peak. Also i don't see that car making 700hp on pump gas it for sure would have been knocking. I can say it may have made 650hp on a good day in cold weather on a dyno jet. Your only at 15 trimming. There are guys on E85 with higher timing making less hp. Either way at 600hp you knew you were on borrowed time making that kind of boost.
 
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11Sec_Lx

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From what I have gathered from posts by the source, a 75mm pulley brings the following boost levels on a stock coyote:

Stock airbox = 10.5lbs
JLT = 13lbs
 

me32

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From what I have gathered from posts by the source, a 75mm pulley brings the following boost levels on a stock coyote:

Stock airbox = 10.5lbs
JLT = 13lbs

Sounds about right. Also the roush CAI would make the same boost as the jlt.
 

racerat

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If metal is in the intake, like mine was. I have no doubt that your supercharger ate a bunch of metal too.
Agree with this.

My Boss tossed a rod in Nov and the KB 3.6 ate a bunch of metal and jacked up the rotors pretty good.

Good luck on your rebuild!
 

sportys

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A BAP is just a band-aid for fuel delivery,it's been proven to cause problems to the stock pump eventually, and when that happen's it usually results in the same occurrence you witnessed today.

...just wondering where I can find info about this? and how did you come to the conclusion that the failure is BAP related?
 

DEADLY FORCE

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Well I don't believe mine/or OP'S failure is bap related. Its the instant torque effect of the positive displacement style superchargers causing the rods/pistons to eventually fail due to the instant power hit when you go with the smaller than stock pulley(size not determined). Mine happened on the 82mm with 609rwhp and 550 RWTQ after 15,000 miles of being supercharged, 34,000 total. The cold temperatures are probably not helping as its increasing power output with the more dense air.

Hopefully we don't see any more failures and it doesn't become a trend. As the miles start to add up on the 2011+ crowd, this might happen more often until we all go forged internals if we want to go with a smaller pulley. Or simply go with a larger pulley and a mild tune which isn't as fun if you have a stock bottom end. Otherwise, like me and OP, be ready to spend a lot of money, to include a supercharger replacement/repair, which isn't cheap.
 
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Ill_W1N

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This is exactly why I run a 90mm stock pulley and don't overdue it on the stock internals. With injectors, e85, and a bap you can get a lot from the blower with the stock pulley at 6.5lbs of boost.

I haven't seen where it's bap related. Sounds like the pulley size, bad gas, and cold weather is the culprit.
 

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