A tale of two shifters...

[Shaker1]

Ive got my solid bushings and KR rear bushing. And a couple questions:

Is it necessary to disconnect or take apart anything up top, inside the car at the console/shifter to do this job? Or is there enough play to just lower the tranny?

Does the trans require tail shaft support for when the cross member is removed? Or not an issue?

 

[barspen]

Ive got my solid bushings and KR rear bushing. And a couple questions:

Is it necessary to disconnect or take apart anything up top, inside the car at the console/shifter to do this job? Or is there enough play to just lower the tranny?

Does the trans require tail shaft support for when the cross member is removed? Or not an issue?

Strongly recommend you plan to remove the shifter. This will save you time in the long run since the solid bushing fitment can be a pain. I had to lightly Dremel some burrs out of the shifter ends.

You will need to un-bolt the shift lever by popping up the center console to get access (easy job). That is the only thing required from inside the car.

I supported the trans with a 4x4 block of wood and a jack under the bell housing after removing the cross member. The trans doesn't move much, but the slight drop will help with access.

Good luck!

 

[SCGallo2]

Ive got my solid bushings and KR rear bushing. And a couple questions:

Is it necessary to disconnect or take apart anything up top, inside the car at the console/shifter to do this job? Or is there enough play to just lower the tranny?

Does the trans require tail shaft support for when the cross member is removed? Or not an issue?

It can all be done from under the car, does not require disconnecting anything in the console. Lowering the crossmember and tranny will give you enough room to do the job. Yes, support the tranny with a jackstand when loosening the crossmember. Some have commented that it is easier to remove the shifter assembly to replace the bushings, and I won't disagree, but a few of us have done the job without removing the shifter.

 

[Shaker1]

Exactly what I wanted to know guys. Thank you!

 

[Tob]

If you can swap the bushings without pulling the consloe/shifter you are a God. Even with the transmission tipped down a little there isn't much room in there for your hands. I'd plan on pulling the shifter out but if you can get away with not doing it then more power to you!

 

[rdanzy]

If you can swap the bushings without pulling the consloe/shifter you are a God. Even with the transmission tipped down a little there isn't much room in there for your hands. I'd plan on pulling the shifter out but if you can get away with not doing it then more power to you!

Definitely not a God and not the sharpest tool in the shed. Just never considered removing the shifter to install the bushings. My glove size is XL and I installed the aluminum bushings without removing the shifter. I lowered the transmission and removed the speed sensor. It is not that difficult installing the bushings as you can move the shifter and get access to remove and install the bushings. The biggest pain was reinstalling the pins. Whether you remove the shifter or not you still have to install the pins. Once you pin one side the other is very difficult. Taper the end of at least one of the pins and install it last.

 

[Shaker1]

If you can swap the bushings without pulling the consloe/shifter you are a God. Even with the transmission tipped down a little there isn't much room in there for your hands. I'd plan on pulling the shifter out but if you can get away with not doing it then more power to you!

I don't require that lesser beings pray to me, but if it brings you comfort I understand.

2 1/2 hrs on race ramps, front and rear bushings done! Nothing done inside the car. No tapering, no chamfering. I did carefully study the pics, write-up and FRPP instructions for installing their short throw. Thanks for all the help and ideas to everyone!

I found that bending a stiff piece of coat hanger wire with a 1" 90 degree bend can be helpful when releasing the drivers side pin/clip, just to get enough room for the hex wrench to enter the hole. I found the biggest pain to be removing the old rubber bushings! I used a large hex wrench to push out the nylon sleeve.

 

[Tob]

:bowdown:

Kudos to both of you. Shaker, interested in hearing your reaction once you've driven the car.

 

[Shaker1]

:bowdown:

Kudos to both of you. Shaker, interested in hearing your reaction once you've driven the car.

Feels great! No NVH. Precise shifts. Your write-up was invaluable too! Thanks

 

[Tob]

Anytime.

Do you still have the rubber isolator in place between the stick and the shifter stub?

 

[Shaker1]

Anytime.

Do you still have the rubber isolator in place between the stick and the shifter stub?

Yes, do you recommend it's removal? I have stock stick and shifter ball.

I've kinda stuck to a minimalist approach on my car. This mod fits my "bang for the buck" theme quite well.

 

[Tob]

I absolutely recommend removing that isolator. It is mushier that Rosie O'Donnell's ass flaps. I didn't measure the deflection at that specific location (I suppose I could) but I probably didn't have to (not Rosie's ass you buffoons).

Clicky.

I have the solid bushings up front, KR bushing at the rear, and no isolator between the shifter and the stub. Night and day over stock and more "direct" than most any aftermarket shifter. I spent some time designing three pieces that would allow you to keep your factory stick, knob, boot, bolts (I'd use a stronger bolt(s) than stock however). Do you think Van would carry something like this?

The stick/ball were just a quick model for looks but the spacer plate and spacers are dimensioned for the OEM pieces.

 

[Shaker1]

I went back and reviewed the part of this thread pertaining to the shifter isolator bushing and the vid you just posted, I now see the issue.

If I read this correctly, something would need to be designed (bushings/spacers) in order to keep the stock stick? It seems the KR shifter reuses the stock isolators, so basically the same, other than appearance.

And the other solution is the $230 FRPP/SVT handle, with it's thicker base and smaller diameter holes?

How did you address this without spending $230 for the FRPP shift handle?

 

[barspen]

How did you address this without spending $230 for the FRPP shift handle?

An option for you...Long thread on Team Shelby that shows how to install a Hurst strait shifter handle (~$50 on eBay) and a custom shifter ball (Speed Dawg). I used 4 small rubber washers between the bolts and lever (Ace Hardware, .49 each). Works like a champ...Love the shifter position and no slop from the huge rubber isolator.

-Barry

 

[Shaker1]

An option for you...Long thread on Team Shelby that shows how to install a Hurst strait shifter handle (~$50 on eBay) and a custom shifter ball (Speed Dawg). I used 4 small rubber washers between the bolts and lever (Ace Hardware, .49 each). Works like a champ...Love the shifter position and no slop from the huge rubber isolator.

-Barry

View attachment 24002

Thanks Barry, I'll look into that.

 

[Tob]

My apologies for a late response.

I'm using the now discontinued FRPP black stick.

Those pictures are from four years ago but I obviously updated the KR shifter with solid front bushings. The black handle was quite a bit cheaper than the polished one which I believe FRPP still carries. Might be a bit but I'll get some material machined that'll allow stock stick retention as shown in the CAD render up above.

I went back and reviewed the part of this thread pertaining to the shifter isolator bushing and the vid you just posted, I now see the issue.

If I read this correctly, something would need to be designed (bushings/spacers) in order to keep the stock stick? It seems the KR shifter reuses the stock isolators, so basically the same, other than appearance.

And the other solution is the $230 FRPP/SVT handle, with it's thicker base and smaller diameter holes?

How did you address this without spending $230 for the FRPP shift handle?

 

[nxhappy]

is the KR unit a huge difference? Where did you get the bushings for the unit? Is it all direct fit ?

 

[RickyBobby]

I have been following this thread and the new MGW shifter thread and there is some great information! Thanks TOB for all of your research. I am at a crossroad in deciding what to do so I am looking for some opinions from those of you with experience with the bushing and handle modifications. If you were in my position with a completely stock 2011 shifter (SVTPP) would you 1) do the bushing and handle modificatioins or 2) go with the new MGW shifter? I figure the bushing/handle mod is about $250 versus the new MGW for me at $450. Also if you could provide some reasoning behind your thoughts I would appreciate that as well. I have the occasional 1-2 shift grind at high RPM. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

 

[Tob]

is the KR unit a huge difference? Where did you get the bushings for the unit? Is it all direct fit ?

The KR shifter has the same ratio as the '10-'12 shifter and it is the fastest of all years GT500, 2007-2014. In my view, when coupled with a direct mounted stick and solid front bushings it made a major difference on my 2009.

The bushing kit can be purchased from Van at Revan Racing. The front bushings (there are two variations available depending on your year) and the rear bushing are indeed a direct fit.
http://www.revanracing.com/categories/2011-14-shelby-gt500/drivetrain/shifter-bushings.html

If you were in my position with a completely stock 2011 shifter (SVTPP) would you 1) do the bushing and handle modificatioins or 2) go with the new MGW shifter? I figure the bushing/handle mod is about $250 versus the new MGW for me at $450. Also if you could provide some reasoning behind your thoughts I would appreciate that as well. I have the occasional 1-2 shift grind at high RPM. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Let's start with the fact that you are experiencing "the grind" when making a 1-2 shift at high RPM. Your 2011 has the quickest ratio as I mentioned above. If your issue is indeed one of the shifter ratio being too quick for the synchros to handle occasionally and at elevated RPM's, I have a sense that MGW's new shifter may work very well for you. You could install a take off factory shifter with a slower ratio ('07-'09 or a '13/'14) if you were on a budget. But if you want what will probably be the most efficient mechanism to date that utilizes a synchro-friendly ratio, I would strongly recommend George's new shifter.

I had a fairly lengthy conversation on the phone with George today and the main topic of discussion was the GT500 shifter. I can honestly say this - George has an extremely in-depth understanding of the issues GT500 owners are seeing. His upcoming shifter will become the default unit of choice, of this I have no doubt. It sounded like he is getting close to release but he wants all his ducks in a row before the floodgates are opened. Tell your spouses now gentlemen, that this is a must have, like a roof over your head or food and water. The community is lucky to have a guy like him manufacturing parts to make a great car even better.

 

[RickyBobby]

Let's start with the fact that you are experiencing "the grind" when making a 1-2 shift at high RPM. Your 2011 has the quickest ratio as I mentioned above. If your issue is indeed one of the shifter ratio being too quick for the synchros to handle occasionally and at elevated RPM's, I have a sense that MGW's new shifter may work very well for you. You could install a take off factory shifter with a slower ratio ('07-'09 or a '13/'14) if you were on a budget. But if you want what will probably be the most efficient mechanism to date that utilizes a synchro-friendly ratio, I would strongly recommend George's new shifter.

I had a fairly lengthy conversation on the phone with George today and the main topic of discussion was the GT500 shifter. I can honestly say this - George has an extremely in-depth understanding of the issues GT500 owners are seeing. His upcoming shifter will become the default unit of choice, of this I have no doubt. It sounded like he is getting close to release but he wants all his ducks in a row before the floodgates are opened. Tell your spouses now gentlemen, that this is a must have, like a roof over your head or food and water. The community is lucky to have a guy like him manufacturing parts to make a great car even better.

Thanks for the response Tob that is exactly what I am looking for to make a decision. Part of your answer is what caused my dilema being that the 11 shifter has the same ratio as the KR and the bushing/handle changes benefitted you. I will say that since reading these threads I have tried to be very deliberate in my shifting by consciously engaging the clutch before starting to shift and it has seemed to help. No missed shifts or grinds, however when I am not so deliberate the shifts are not quite as smooth. In my mind this lends credibility to the though of the ratio being too "quick" for the syncros to engage.

It looks like I am off to a new MGW.....fortunatly no wife to convince....but I do have to explain how this shifter is more beneficial than a diamond ring.