Looking good Josh, excited to see this done.
GodStang's Twinscrew build
- Thread starter GodStang
- Start date
I was quoted a lot lol. well this was a long block I wanted. I was not expecting the price I was given. It was for a aluminum 323 to handle 1100rwhp. I may get another quote on a smaller cubic inch motor if that makes a difference. All I know is that the price I was given, I can go out and put that towards a 2016 mustang gt or to a house. No idea what to spend. I have to ask around
Aluminum 323? A teksid/wap block or something else custom? What were you quoted lol
When the blower starts to get that big against the engine I'm not sure which one is driving and which one is "driven" lol Looks impressive but I'm holding out for your KB 4.0 install thread next year :rockon:
Iron or aluminum block?
Mine is iron. It was built 11 yrs ago before the aluminator and boss blocks.
1600hp is serious power, was just wondering how it was built to handle a figure like that.
I don't want to throw off his thread but I was quoted 25K for a long block.
Depends what all that includes. Installation? Are you providing anything?
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can you share some details on your 302 vt stroker longblock?
The only thing I can provide are the heads.
For what it's worth I have roughly 7k in my heads alone with the cams. A 323 would also be a sleeved teksid. I imagine they are charging a pretty penny for the core and sleeving is not a cheap process. You can build a longblock to handle/make sub 1400 for around 15k. You are paying for the labor and extra's at 25k. You don't "need" sleeves and you don't "need" billet crank and you don't "need" it o-ringed. All things I imagine they are putting in to add to the safety margin.
15k is more like it. I'm going to paste what I was told.
We look at hings in a broad scope as we have clients running our engines in just about every type of motor sport all over the world.
Our target # on the iron blocks is 1K flywheel or less if you are planning on going over that your getting a sleeved 3v block(the strongest o.e. block, also the last one they designed out side of the Shelby's)
There are a few things we do not like about the boss block at big power #'s, most people will not make 850-900 wheel hp
2 bolt mains, same bore space as o.e. in reality the liners do not get thicker when doing this, depending on core shift these thigs contribute to liner cracking.
Also the weight most people going far enough to build one of these engines have already made the leep to a heavier power adder than o.e. so adding more weight to the nose of a car does not generally help in any kind of motorsports outside of truck pulling
The aluminum is lighter and stronger a win win
stroker engines that are poorly engineered have given the "stroker" a bad rap in general.
It's like saying aluminum heads are bad because of the first generation corvette heads having issues way back in the day.(that still comes up in conversation! 60+years later)
when a properly designed piston and conn rod taking the piston speed and liner length of the block into account life cycle of the combo should be fine.
All of our high end 1000+ HP are engineered with our custom piston and our sleeve designs along with our prep work(second to none)
We use a U.S. forged crankshaft and a billet conn rod, our piston design along with o-ring, receiver groove and copper head gasket they are good to 1400HP
we have different recipe's for different budgets and power levels.
Our target # on the iron blocks is 1K flywheel or less if you are planning on going over that your getting a sleeved 3v block(the strongest o.e. block, also the last one they designed out side of the Shelby's)
There are a few things we do not like about the boss block at big power #'s, most people will not make 850-900 wheel hp
2 bolt mains, same bore space as o.e. in reality the liners do not get thicker when doing this, depending on core shift these thigs contribute to liner cracking.
Also the weight most people going far enough to build one of these engines have already made the leep to a heavier power adder than o.e. so adding more weight to the nose of a car does not generally help in any kind of motorsports outside of truck pulling
The aluminum is lighter and stronger a win win
stroker engines that are poorly engineered have given the "stroker" a bad rap in general.
It's like saying aluminum heads are bad because of the first generation corvette heads having issues way back in the day.(that still comes up in conversation! 60+years later)
when a properly designed piston and conn rod taking the piston speed and liner length of the block into account life cycle of the combo should be fine.
All of our high end 1000+ HP are engineered with our custom piston and our sleeve designs along with our prep work(second to none)
We use a U.S. forged crankshaft and a billet conn rod, our piston design along with o-ring, receiver groove and copper head gasket they are good to 1400HP
we have different recipe's for different budgets and power levels.
Interesting, there are various things within this post that seemed a bit odd to me. Stopping at 1k flywheel on an iron block seems strange, the consensus seemed to be that the iron block 03/04 cobra and boss aftermarket are very strong blocks. 1k flywheel seems low for the estimates I've seen. The 3v block being the strongest also sounds odd to me, again, from what I've read, the italian teksid or one of the iron blocks seem to be at the top of the list in strength. Although I have heard that the 05+ blocks are supposed to be great.
Not sure on what he's getting at with the stroker engine thing. I'm fairly certain that it's been shown various times that the 4.6 mod motors don't like being stroked ( <--- Lol )..Something about the overall balance/block dimensions. I'm sure someone can explain it in detail.
Also, saying "life cycle of the combo should be fine." isn't very confidence inspiring lol.
LOL...stroked.....lol.
It seems everything I learned about these motors has changed from what I was told. My boy aj made over 1100rwhp THROUGH an automatic in his tt cobra and ran 8.30's with a boss block. No heads lifted like I hear on the internet, nothing wild happened.
I was told sleeved blocks weren't boost friendly. No idea if that is right. The italian block is crazy strong. Id love to find a teksid to have.
The stroker comment was made bc I asked him are stroker kits for our mod motors really bad? so, he replied.
It seems everything I learned about these motors has changed from what I was told. My boy aj made over 1100rwhp THROUGH an automatic in his tt cobra and ran 8.30's with a boss block. No heads lifted like I hear on the internet, nothing wild happened.
I was told sleeved blocks weren't boost friendly. No idea if that is right. The italian block is crazy strong. Id love to find a teksid to have.
The stroker comment was made bc I asked him are stroker kits for our mod motors really bad? so, he replied.
Yeah AJ made crazy power. I've also never really heard much talk about sleeving mod motors either. What company is this? The best advice to get is definitely going to be from experienced people who have dealt with major builds before, not necessarily the companies themselves. They are going to have extremely skewed responses based off of profile sadly. From the massive amount of research I've done, it seems that a few things that this guy said to you don't really line up.
The iron black is only a 2 bolt main. It has a tendency to have the crank walk at high HP levels due to this. The iron block itself is strong as in you won't blow it in half because of the power but it's design is lacking compared the teksid and newer WAP block (3v block). The Boss block has the same issues but add in the fact that it has very little of material left between the cylinders. This causes them to blew head gaskets at a higher rate. There has been a few people machine the caps to fit 4 billet mains and torque them to ~120 ftlbs to keep the heads sealed. The 3v block (newer WAP) is just as strong as the Teksid block, people just get stuck on the teksid because well Mustang people get stuck on things (I.E. precision turbos, kellogg cranks and FR-500 wheels). The aluminum blocks are superior at over 1k hp because of their 4 bolt mains. Stroked motors are fine if they are built right but they do put more pressure on the skirt of the piston. I would rather keep a stock stroke but many people use strokers and do just fine.
What they told is mostly truth. Just because one guy made power in an iron block doesn't mean its the best path to choose.
All well said. Yeah I know the 2 bolt mains definitely cause further issues. Would you choose the 03/04 cobra block over the new boss block? Yeah one guy making power doesn't mean much, the majority results mean much more.
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Sorry but I don't see a 2bolt Iron block built to handle 1600hp 11years ago.. Unless you have a billet crank, and billet rods.. and a lot of block prep.. Hell 11yrs ago I don't think they even had ARP2000 headstuds for the Modular cars.. I could be wrong.. Something to think about though.
You're correct on the FGT heads, they are bad ass and require a lot of work to work on a Cobra. Worth it in the end though..
As you get higher and higher into the HP realm I would HIGHLY recommend a stand alone ECU.. Best of luck looking forward to seeing more progress.
You're correct on the FGT heads, they are bad ass and require a lot of work to work on a Cobra. Worth it in the end though..
As you get higher and higher into the HP realm I would HIGHLY recommend a stand alone ECU.. Best of luck looking forward to seeing more progress.
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