How do the C-clip eliminator kits available for stock axles work? I assumed it provided a beefier, less sloppy clamping action but at the same location on the axle shaft.
These are strictly designed as a way to meet the NHRA rules for axle retention and are located at the wheel bearing end of the axle shafts. They are prone to gear oil leakage in a street application. Also the Torsen differential needs to retain the center bearing block whether you remove the C-clips or not to keep the torque biasing gears in place inside the differential.How do the C-clip eliminator kits available for stock axles work? I assumed it provided a beefier, less sloppy clamping action but at the same location on the axle shaft.
I spoke with Birdoc last week. You are correct...he is running a spool now; however, when his torsen went out he put a wavetrac in and said he was running 1200hp on it and had zero issues. Also, the wavetrac comes with a lifetime warranty and cost me the same as another Torsen would cost. So, that's why i went Wavetrac. On a side-note I really appreciate Mark being so approachable still. He is leagues ahead of us now with that wicked build...but still took the time to chat with me a bit on his differential experience. Just another reason why everyone likes Van just as much. Good things.
You guys are right in saying 33 spline would be better. I am still running my 31 spline mosers though. Will see how it does. It's easy to say ya might as well do this and that while i'm in there. At the same time, I wasn't a fan of replacing my mosers with another set already that are perfectly fine, and if this one doesn't hold up, a 9" is going in. I'd love to be able to give a great experience on a path not so much followed. I'm a fan of efficiency, and if simply tossing in a Wavetrac and nothing else greatly helps the torsen issue, it can save people money in the long run. These vehicles are already money mongers as it is. (I say this 4 clutches in...)
After the thorough research, i learned that while the Torsen is an excellent track LSD, it's main killers are high horsepower launches in heavy vehicles with slicks or DRs. I'm not pushing 1000hp, but i do go to the track a LOT when I'm home. So, i'm sure that's what did it in. Strangely, under normal driving i don't notice it being an issue and it lays 2 strips of rubber on the pavement with normal street tires. However, I think it was when things got sticky tire wise that it was enabling it to not work correctly, like the burnout box or on prepped 4k launches. I could certainly feel something not right, and witnesses said they noticed one side smoking and the other playing catch-up. To add, at speeds over 100mph, i began noticing a low pitch noise and a strange vibration in the rear. Was this the torsen going? I have no idea. But will no when it's completed today and after a little break-in period.
I will let you all know how it works out. First big test will be at the track in Fontana for NMCA West on the 17th (if i don't have to work). The plan is to run it there.
I'm not giving you a hard time over whether or not you use a 31 spline versus a 33 spline. I made my choice strictly on what I've seen happen 40 years ago with the old 10 and 12 bolt Chevy rears at the drag strips when a C-clip retained axle broke. Back in those days the rear axles had drum brakes. When you broke an axle, the axle, tire and brake drum left the car with catastrophic results. Today you don't see these types of failures due the fact modern cars have disc brakes. The rear disc brake rotor and caliper in of itself retains the axle in the car even if you shear an axle at the splines in the differential. So those safety issues have disappeared as the brakes have changed. The NHRA has never bothered to update the rules to reflect this when it comes to a C-clip retained axle, because there are too many older cars still raced to this day with the factory drum brakes of yesteryear.
Now on to the Wavetrac. To get a good launch with this differential........you must do a good burnout. Why? Because you need to achieve the same axle RPM per side. Once you are done with the burnout the Wavetrac will be locked in the similar manner as a spool. But and here is the BIG BUT. If for any reason you come out of the burn out and have to make any steering correction that causes the diff to unlock for torque bias from left to the right side of the axle. You need to do a dry hop where you spin the rear tires for at least 6 inches to lock the diff as you pull up to the beams square. If you make any major steering corrections to line yourself up in the main grove of rubber as you approach the beams. The diff will not be locked until you leave the line and the Wavetrac senses a speed differential between the left and right side after the launch. It usually takes 6 inches of car movement and the axle speed differential before the Wavetrac fully locks up if you didn't set the car up properly as you come out of the burnout and into the beams.
Not many people know this. I found this out from AutoTech the manufacturer of the Wavetrac.
Also don't purchase any off the shelf synthetic 75W-90 gear oil from you local auto parts store. 99.9% of them have a friction modifier in them from the oil company to work in a clutch style posi unit. This inhibits the way a Wavetrac works. Purchase the high $$$$$$ Motorcraft gear oil specifically designed to work with the Torsen, as it is friction modifier free. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I believe the only other synthetic gear oil without friction modifiers for a clutch style posi available is from Amsoil
Wavetrac gives you a life time warranty, if you ever break it, pay the difference between the two and upgrade to the 33 spline. You'll have to buy new axles, plus the 9" axle bearing housings to do this. Doing the 33 spline and welding the axle tubes with the 9' ends, according to Mike the shop foreman at Moser, the complete 8.8 axle assembly will handle 1000-1100 RWHP without any issues. Going any higher in power would require a spool from what he told me or a complete 9" rear axle assembly.Oh I know you weren't giving me a hard time. Personally I wish I had 33 splined axles. Just hated after purchasing 31 Mosers not long ago having to upgrade once again. The 31 splined Wavetrac option worked out for me.
I have about 300 miles on it. Just been taking it easy so far. The installer (GTR HiPo) mentioned it was super tight in getting Wavetrac's special style clips in. I ordered in what Wavetrac recommended as far as fluid which was Motul 75W-140. They did mention that friction modifiers can do their job to well on the wavetrac and to use something that didn't have them. I just used what they recommended. Also, since I do high speed rallys on top of recreational drags and such, they recommended the 140 weight over the 90.
Thanks for the additional info for the launch. I will have to remember that! I'll re-update after a day at the drags this Saturday on how things were affected with this new LSD.
I don't know much about this differential, from what little I've read it is similar to the Torsen in how it works internally as far as torque bias left to right. So again no gear lubricants with friction modifiers added for a clutch style posi differential.Kurt--I have the 35 spline Strange S-trac 8.8. Do you know if it locks/unlocks in a similar fashion to the Wavetrac? Thanks for the info... very helpful!
its just a stock diff from a non track pack shelby with the carbon clutches....i had the same thing in my 2010 that ran 9.4 at 150 and made over 1k passes in that car....never broke a diff and the clutches did me well for a loooong time.
I was referred to this, obviously old information to several here;
http://www.spohn.net/support/questi...+different+center+section+differential+types?
Okay I did a little more research. This post is to talk strictly about the 33 spline Wavetrac versus the 35 spline Strange S-Trac. The 31 spline Wavetrac is NOT built in the same manner, since it has C-clips to retain the axles.I have a 9" s-track. It's designed like the true track but with twice the side gears, better metal, serial numbered, rebuildable, preload (so it's locked until you reach 100 (?) Ftlb torque differential... like a clutch style, but just interference fit in the center between the axle gears). Best of all worlds I figure, until you need a locker.
Currie sent 9+ axle lube with the axle. Not sure who makes it, but it leaves 2 thick black lines.
An Eaton/Detroit TruTrac, Gleasen Torsen, Strange S-Trac and a Wavetrac are all torque biasing gear differentials. The Torsen can be bought in 3 different configurations for the 8.8 rear axle. The T2 version from the 13/14 GT500 are structurally stronger than the a standard one. The Ford Racing version M-4204-T31H for road racing is the T2 with a high torque bias ratio.So I don't see the stock Torsion diff mentioned in the link above. Which diff mentioned is similiar to the design of the Torsion?
You sure about that Heinzy?
[video=youtube;lkxSlYYKMlE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkxSlYYKMlE[/video]
You still did well with the #'s of times you've ran your 2010 car and the diff lasting as long as it did.
yes im sure bud, little do you know that i never broke a diff....just the f888390 twice....same diff everytime put in the stronger f988390 which i suggested you do and never had an issue again...diff was stock 2010 and stock factory 31spline axels...and for your info that diff had around 1200 passes total....but to each there own. cheers!You sure about that Heinzy?
[video=youtube;lkxSlYYKMlE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkxSlYYKMlE[/video]
You still did well with the #'s of times you've ran your 2010 car and the diff lasting as long as it did.