I'll likely change it, even though it looks good on the dip stick.
I never start my car in winter. Temps fluctuate so much and can contribute to condensation. One day it can be 30℉ and the next -20℉.
I'll be changing oil along with plugs this spring. I may drive on this until the 92 is out of the tank. Once I switch back to ethanol I'll change oil.
That's not a bad idea once you change fuel. Same here in Ohio man it's been pretty mild this winter. Technically spring now but 56 today by tomorrow night 23 lol. Will have the car out soon though lol.
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Yeah I'm getting anxious lol. Looks like chance of rain the next 10 days. Which will clean off the roads nicely. I don't take it out until we get good rain.
that's why I said change it IF it was 2 years old lol.For E85 use? 2-3 years?
I'd get it out one year tops regardless of mileage.
I've never liked RP. Amsoil is far superior IMO ...I did testing with royal purple hps 5w30. I'm actually curious on the difference between the two.
I don't change it when I put it away for the winter. Whats the point? Have new oil sit in the oil pan and possibly collect moisture? Northern climate dwellers know things sweat constantly as the temp changes in the spring. I change it right away when I get it out.
BTW, don't you just love how clean the oil dumps when using E85? Even if you put a bunch of miles on it, like in your d.d., the oil comes out about as clean as you put it in.
That's why I never understood why some people up here start up there cars in the winter. The other day I popped the hood to check things out. Motor was sweating all over due to temperature swings.
Its important to keep the engine lubricated, I don't know how long something has to sit to become a dry start but I think id want to start every month or two. My car only had 8500 miles on it in 10 yrs so it obviously did lots of sitting. When the heads came off the cam journals had some scarring which was attributed to dry starts. The whole motor was gone through and thankfully the bottom end looked like new.
If you let the car warm up it should evaporate the water out of the inside of the engine. The best/cleanest oil in the world does no good when its not coating the parts anymore.
I'm still a firm believer in letting it sit. I did your method years ago on my foxbody. Even though I let it get up to operating temp, by spring every bolt in the engine bay was rusty.
Upon starting it for the first time in spring, gas pedal to the floor with clutch pushed in, and I crank it over for 10 seconds.
The gas pedal deal is kind of a feel good thing but probably doesn't help. When you go to crank the motor if the oil film is gone the parts are wearing on dry surfaces. Also the oil pump is spun off the crank in theory it moves the same amount of oil per revolution. If it takes 20 revolutions of the engine to lubricate the motor what difference does it make if the motor does it via the starter or the first few revolutions of the engine under start up.
I understand if leaving it off all winter helps with rust prevention.