03 cobra bad numbers (stumped)

mark23svt

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58941577-F013-43DA-8A23-850D7410F401.jpeg
So guys trying to make this short. Broke a crank ended up buying a new built engine. Engine has cams and runs at 9:8:1 compression. The shop closest to me doing the swap kept up with pics and what not so all was good. Before engine swap my only issue that I kept fighting was belt shred after an alternator install going wrong. So car before swap and when working properly put down 475rwhp on a conservative tune at a diff shop a while back. Well new tuner only got these numbers and right away I thought it has to he belt slip, even though I got metco double bearing idlers and the aux idler. Tuner claims no belt slip and he believes the rotors are the issue from the blower itself. So just so disappointed and just out of cash at the moment. Just wanted to sss if anyone here had similar issues or just what you guys think. Also the green line is on e85 and red is 93, he claims its loosing boost on high rpm. Says boost by pass valve is working and no vacumm leaks. Right now I’m just tired been waiting for the car and waisted money I’m just going to pick it up and just start I guess thinking of what’s next.

Mods are
Ported blower
2.93 upper and 4 lower
Full exhaust
Jlt rai
Return fuel system with id1050
Sct 2800 maff
Engine has cams and only 5k miles. 58941577-F013-43DA-8A23-850D7410F401.jpeg72FF2FEB-8DEF-4220-9548-A5028E471185.jpeg0BF0AFC2-A711-4A9F-A6F2-9D6B6A02448E.png87BE51C7-A94E-4C13-A7E4-F73CDC603F7B.jpeg
 

mark23svt

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I don’t see what boost it was making on the pull. Do you know what boost level it was? I would imagine on 93 this thing should be seeing well over 500w. Something isn’t right.
Yeah man I mean before on 93 and a stock engine it made 475 on conservative tune and no cams. But I’m at a loss since he says it’s the blower and nothing else.
 

CobraBob

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So both 93 octane and E85 made 446whp. Something ain't right. This REALLY sucks for you, since you're going to now have to figure out what's wrong. The dyno operator should have done a pull with zero smoothing, which might have better illustrated how the engine is running.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge installed? Or can you data log? I would do a full run on a deserted street/highway and see if you're losing boost at high RPMs as the tuner believes. I don't see signs of belt slip on that dyno sheet, but the smoothing factor of '5' isn't helping us see any irregularities.
 

ITSTOCK

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He said it wasn't belt slip, he did log it, right? No A/F either. The graphs are identical, did he add timing for the e? Is there something up with the IAT's pulling a bunch of timing? Weather conditions? There just isn't a lot to go on, and when you go to a competent tuner, they should be able to rule out a lot of items for something like this. See if he can send you the run file, i'll take a look.

I'm not buying the rotor thing. Even if it were the rotors, you wouldn't have identical graphs for e vs 93, the added timing should add some power unless it was already at MBT.

Lastly, you said you "bought" a "new" engine, was everything confirmed?
 
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mark23svt

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Sorry guys at work but that’s all he sent me and I agree with everything he doesn’t seem to have tuned it properly at all. Engine was long block and it was check and compresión was all good. I’m pretty sure it’s the tuner since it seems he doesn’t show me much. Tomorrow I’m just going for the car I don’t want him to mess up the car even more, I feel like I should have to keep asking him about stuff he should have just done it correctly or tried to find the issue. And Ofcourse price was more then we talked about, no one ever keeps their word. I’m going to bring her home and try to data log and put it up. I have 3 vids I can send someone if they shoot me a text and post I can’t seem to post a video. 956-526-7848 if anyone can help.
 

ITSTOCK

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It could always be mechanical, so I don't want you to jump to conclusions based on my post. It's just nice to have a bit more information than provided. Before making bad blood, see if he can email/send you the dyno file.
 

mark23svt

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Ok your right I’ll ask him tomorrow since I think he has stop answering my texts and calls for today lol. I’m usually not a nag or anything but price was way more then discussed and numbers are way way off.
 

mark23svt

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Once I get readings and stuff you guys have anyone you recommend that can help me with possibly an email tune?
 

olympic

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A graph showing boost during the dyno runs would be helpful. If it really is loosing boost then that needs to be dealt with first.

Also, were the cams degree'd when the new engine was assembled? There's a lot of custom parts that went into that build so degreeing the cams to Kurgan's specs would be critical to making good power.
 

mark23svt

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A graph showing boost during the dyno runs would be helpful. If it really is loosing boost then that needs to be dealt with first.

Also, were the cams degree'd when the new engine was assembled? There's a lot of custom parts that went into that build so degreeing the cams to Kurgan's specs would be critical to making good power.
I asked him about all graphs so I can check them out and post them. And I believe cams were degreed. Engine was on another car which was wrecked and he sold the engine. I did a full check with compression and stuff. Even the mechanic working on my car said the even seemed really good when he opened it to inspect.
 

CobraBob

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Now you're making progress with diagnosing what's going on. I expected to hear that you weren't seeing the boost expected, and you just confirmed it. Keep us posted.
 

beau t

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On my diesels to chase boost leaks (if i can't find them) i make a block off plate and tap regulated air into it and set it to close to 40 psi and start listening and running my hand around pipes and fittings searching for leaks. This might be a little harder with a SC but you could get a piece of PVC pipe and cap and tag it in at the TB silicon or rubber boot (just gotta know your boot ID to get the right size pipe), i have used this trick with at least 7 vehicles and found leaks 6 times - it just makes it easier to hear without the motor running. Note - - most diesels see close to 40 psi of boost so thats why i went with 40 you may want to start lower maybe 15 to 20 if you try it thinking its a boost leak.
 

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