hey man the hard to shift in high rpms happened to my car with 48k on it to, i researched it and it says its a crack in the tob guide tube? i lost the link it was on my desk top but if u didnt replace that u may have the same issue, i ended up wrecking my trans because of it
03 Cobra Full Build + MORE (Posi Port w/ 100 Shot)
- Thread starter vip3r1850
- Start date
Hey, my TOB sleeve didn't seem to have any stress marks and it wasn't cracked. Hopefully it was just the clutch and not the synchros or anything which we doubt because there were no shifting issues low-mid rpm. Thanks for the info !
Clutch just needs adjusting is all. Are you putting in that new clutch and going straight to the dyno without breaking it in?
Nice build hope everything keeps going smoothly!
Nice build man im in the process myself. Did you get stencils for the cobras under the hood? Also did you but a clear coat in your s/c?
very nice build!!!! look forward to seeing how well it does.
That would definitely be a bad idea ! I can drive the car on my previous tune just can't beat on it but Jon Lund is providing a mail order tune that will let me break the clutch in safely before we throw it on the dyno. I plan on putting around 300-400 miles on it before Oct 2nd. We started the car yesterday open headers and she idled beautiful without any issues as expected so as soon as we are able to put the transmission back in we'll begin the process. So if anyone in Long Island see's me driving down the service road to the Hamptons say hi LoL cause it's going to be a long trip.
Thanks. Those were there when I purchased the car. I am just going to clean the hood up a bit underneath and call it a day. I did not clear coat the blower.
OP I would put 500 miles on it. Also just throwing this out there, highway miles don't count. You need stop & go city driving. You prob know this but reminding you lol
Of course
Probably going to drive out using the service roads, there's a light every 1/4 mile for 125 miles LoL^
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Agreed, 500 miles would be better just to be on the safe side with that sweet build
Update 10/13/10
OK, so over the weekend we managed to get the blower assembly back in the car as well as the new IC tank and the radiator tank. I also completed the EGR delete using my stock lines and fittings. Everything went very smoothly and fit well.
I temporarily put the stock intake and maf on the car so that we could fire it up and check for any leaks from the head cooling mod which would be a nightmare if the transmission was back in the car.
Here is what everything looks like:
I soldered on quick disconnect fittings onto my bottle warmer and pressure switch so that taking them out is a snap. If anyone is wondering what connectors I used, they are called powerpole connectors and are very popular among RC hobbyists. I'm providing a link if anyone is interested in using them:
Anderson Powerpole & SB Multipole Series Sets: Bags of housings and contacts in different sizes
We also ran the braided nitrous line to the engine bay from the trunk and took care of all the undercarriage mounting and started experimenting with solenoid placement. I think the spot we chose will work very well and looks killer ! Here is the setup mocked up Almost looks factory
After it got a little dark out and it was getting late we filled up the IC tank and radiator, primed the new pumps and pressurized them, brought some oil to the top of the motor since it's been sitting for 3 weeks and cranked her over with open headers and she started right up. Very quickly settled down to a nice idle and we bled the coolant system of air and let her run for quite a while. Didn't seem like there were any issues but we won't know for sure until it's out on the street.
Parts I got f***** on:
2 incorrect size belts from pepboys (go figure) and then when we thought we had it figured out we ordered the wrong gates belt from another local automotive supplier . . . Looks like my size is going to be 79" which got ordered today and will be here tomorrow.
Parts I'm still waiting on:
D&D 26 Spline Input Shaft and Russell SS Lines
Parts I still need to decide/buy:
Nitrous control panel
Nitrous pressure gauge
Bottle Blanket
Misc. fuel fitting for fuel pressure gauge
JLT RAI
Drag wheels/tires/spacers
Parts I ordered on a whim yesterday:
QA1 adjustable shock for rear (yes just 1). It cost be a 109$ shipped on eBay but he only had one, brand new in box. So now I'm forced to buy a second one LoL
Next update soon to follow with some videos hopefully !
OK, so over the weekend we managed to get the blower assembly back in the car as well as the new IC tank and the radiator tank. I also completed the EGR delete using my stock lines and fittings. Everything went very smoothly and fit well.
I temporarily put the stock intake and maf on the car so that we could fire it up and check for any leaks from the head cooling mod which would be a nightmare if the transmission was back in the car.
Here is what everything looks like:
I soldered on quick disconnect fittings onto my bottle warmer and pressure switch so that taking them out is a snap. If anyone is wondering what connectors I used, they are called powerpole connectors and are very popular among RC hobbyists. I'm providing a link if anyone is interested in using them:
Anderson Powerpole & SB Multipole Series Sets: Bags of housings and contacts in different sizes
We also ran the braided nitrous line to the engine bay from the trunk and took care of all the undercarriage mounting and started experimenting with solenoid placement. I think the spot we chose will work very well and looks killer ! Here is the setup mocked up
Almost looks factoryAfter it got a little dark out and it was getting late we filled up the IC tank and radiator, primed the new pumps and pressurized them, brought some oil to the top of the motor since it's been sitting for 3 weeks and cranked her over with open headers and she started right up. Very quickly settled down to a nice idle and we bled the coolant system of air and let her run for quite a while. Didn't seem like there were any issues but we won't know for sure until it's out on the street.
Parts I got f***** on:
2 incorrect size belts from pepboys (go figure) and then when we thought we had it figured out we ordered the wrong gates belt from another local automotive supplier . . . Looks like my size is going to be 79" which got ordered today and will be here tomorrow.
Parts I'm still waiting on:
D&D 26 Spline Input Shaft and Russell SS Lines
Parts I still need to decide/buy:
Nitrous control panel
Nitrous pressure gauge
Bottle Blanket
Misc. fuel fitting for fuel pressure gauge
JLT RAI
Drag wheels/tires/spacers
Parts I ordered on a whim yesterday:
QA1 adjustable shock for rear (yes just 1). It cost be a 109$ shipped on eBay but he only had one, brand new in box. So now I'm forced to buy a second one LoL
Next update soon to follow with some videos hopefully !
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very nice build.. i bet it makes great numbers on the bottle..
I would highly recommend the mcleod TOB sleeve with that new 26 spline input shaft.. otherwise, you will probabily be taking the trans out again to replace it.
I would highly recommend the mcleod TOB sleeve with that new 26 spline input shaft.. otherwise, you will probabily be taking the trans out again to replace it.
I'm not really a fan of painted black blowers but yours looks like it turned out great! I bet your excited to drive it, gonna be a whole new car.
Great build!
You'll want to invest in some teflon washers for the tank. I have the same setup and after a few refills those washers go bad and the bottle will leak.
Also. The Dyno tunes solenoids get flakey after 150 or so shot.
I may have missed it but what safety features are you using for the nitrous system? Got a nitrous filter?
You'll want to invest in some teflon washers for the tank. I have the same setup and after a few refills those washers go bad and the bottle will leak.
Also. The Dyno tunes solenoids get flakey after 150 or so shot.
I may have missed it but what safety features are you using for the nitrous system? Got a nitrous filter?
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Hey, I'm sorry but which washers are you referring to ? Also, no I don't have a nitrous filter, never really heard of too many people using them though. And what do you mean by they get flakey ? Is it after a 150 shot (regarding size) because I'm only spraying a 100 or do you mean 150 uses of nitrous ?
The teflon washers that go inside the bottle opening that seal the line adapter to the tank.
As for flakey, yes. Around the 150 mark the solenoids act up. Not everytime but they seem to be at their limit.
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