04 whipple cobra wont stay running HELP PLEASE!!

ds98formula

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everything was still in place, if I wouldn't have seen something bouncing in the road in my rear view mirror I would have never knew to pull over and look but it drove absolutely fine to a few blocks away to my dads house, I parked it started it one more time (which I know I shouldn't have did) but it started and ran fine, so far im assuming I got really lucky, chain and cam gear where still on and spinning fine...
 

ds98formula

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so i got the car running it has all of its power and acceleration is smooth but when i hit the clutch to change gears or come to a stop a stop it dies or tries to die uness i hit the gas, also when i start it up i have to give it a little gas to get it to start, the idle is smooth for the most part but bogs down every 30 seconds or so and not consistently..... Any clue wher to go from here?????
 

TRBO VNM

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QUOTE=TRBO VNM;13154278]Incorrect. You can unplug the sensor and typically it does start and you can drive it a short distance, but not recommended

I am Talking about a "blown" frps not an unplugged frps

I know what your talking about. And with a blown FRPS you can unplug it and 9 times out of 10 the car will run and you can limp it somewhere. Obviously you don't want all the fuel going back through the system but if the situation requires you to move the car by no other means, you have that option. Has happened to many people.
 

TRBO VNM

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Yeah, what were compression numbers and more importantly, how did you perform the test? Step by step process?

and just because the gears looked fine doesn't mean it didn't jump a tooth or two.

I had a buddy with a Mach 1 that had the same thing happen. Actually happened on two different cars of his with the cam bolt. He called me up and asked what he should do. I explained taking it apart and checking timing and putting a new bolt in. He opted for the cheaper and faster way out since he was doing it himself and just popped a new bolt in. Next start up the motor seized. bye bye valves. Obviously it jumped more than a tooth or two, but if you aren't going to check everything, expect the worst and hope for the best.
 
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ds98formula

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did you do compression test?


i had a similar issue with the stalling out..if i held gas it would stay running..

if i held gas until it reached temp it would than stay running...

problem was it lost 1 valve..cyl 6

we had no signs prior ,,just happened

i didnt finish the compression test ill finish it when i get home, did you have good compression in cylinder 6 when you had a bad valve? where there any drivability issues, or any red flags? I ask because the last bent valve i had made the car miss like crazy. The funny thing is that mine runs fine except in nuetral.

My buddy hooked up his scan tool up to it yesterday and said the timing was off, i didnt know you could tell by reading parameters on a scan tool, i guess i hope its the timing over a bent valve.
 

ds98formula

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Yeah, what were compression numbers and more importantly, how did you perform the test? Step by step process?

and just because the gears looked fine doesn't mean it didn't jump a tooth or two.

I had a buddy with a Mach 1 that had the same thing happen. Actually happened on two different cars of his with the cam bolt. He called me up and asked what he should do. I explained taking it apart and checking timing and putting a new bolt in. He opted for the cheaper and faster way out since he was doing it himself and just popped a new bolt in. Next start up the motor seized. bye bye valves. Obviously it jumped more than a tooth or two, but if you aren't going to check everything, expect the worst and hope for the best.

Wow that's pretty scary, I figured I was fine because the car kept running when It threw the bolt, I drive a few blocks to a friends. So I thought I was gods, now I'm thinking timing did jump, I just hope I didn't screw up any valves. After a compression test can I assume my valves are good?? Timing cover will be coming off this weekend. Thanks again
 

TRBO VNM

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Don't assume anything. You need to go through some checks. you have the compression test, then you can do a leak down test and go from there, but you should confirm the chains and everything is set right.
 

ds98formula

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Don't assume anything. You need to go through some checks. you have the compression test, then you can do a leak down test and go from there, but you should confirm the chains and everything is set right.

Ok I'll do the compression test then should I check and set timing before I do a leak down test??
 

TRBO VNM

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How are you performing the test? 125 is very low. You should be seeing upper 150's to 180's or even 190's. All 4 should be similar per side within 10% of eachother and from side to side within the same range as well. If you see consistent 20+ psi differences from driver/passenger, that is an indication timing may still be off IF everything else is fine.
 

ds98formula

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actually the guy the was helping me told me to stop cranking, im sure it would have went up more, i think he was just looking to see that i was keeping compression.

We were threading the compression tester in and cranking the engine by the starter.
 

hotcobra03

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actually the guy the was helping me told me to stop cranking, im sure it would have went up more, i think he was just looking to see that i was keeping compression.

We were threading the compression tester in and cranking the engine by the starter.
when i do mine,engine warm,all piugs out,fuel pump fuse pulled,tb tied in wot,crank 3-5 complete revs,

i failed 2 times on cyl 6 for dropped valve seat,than crack on cyl 7 on last problem,

ford did my first head,i dont know how many valves dropped,but acted like yours with starting issues,my second i did,only 1 valve was bad,but i seen mark in piston from 1st time and it was a different valve than what i was seeing,this time no starting problems just strange idle,still drove it another 1000 miles before repair
 

ds98formula

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when i do mine,engine warm,all piugs out,fuel pump fuse pulled,tb tied in wot,crank 3-5 complete revs,

i failed 2 times on cyl 6 for dropped valve seat,than crack on cyl 7 on last problem,

ford did my first head,i dont know how many valves dropped,but acted like yours with starting issues,my second i did,only 1 valve was bad,but i seen mark in piston from 1st time and it was a different valve than what i was seeing,this time no starting problems just strange idle,still drove it another 1000 miles before repair

what kind of compression numbers did you get in the cylinders that had bad valves?
 

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