2.3 TVS Disassembly help/tips

brian98svtsnake

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So I'm thinking of getting my 2.3 TVS powder coated Vista Blue by Brian Pancoast and I'd like to disassemble the blower for weight savings since it needs to be done anyway in order to powder coat it. Just wanted some help/tips/advice cause I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm pretty handy and good with my hands but I'm a little nervous. Do I save the oil or replace it and if so, what do I use? Any help, pics etc would be appreciated. Thank you in advance
 

NightRide

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It's very easy, just take out the front bolts, you will need to tap the snout with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Once you do that all the oil will leak out so have something under to catch it. Not much oil but you still don't want it going everywhere. After that, everything pretty much just slides out.
 

enormous

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-Remove SC from car
-Drain oil, I use a 12 ml syringe and 4" piece of aquarium hose.
-You can disassemble without draining just use rags (have plenty) to catch oil-6oz when cases separate.
-lay SC flat on towel on a bench.
-remove 6 snout bolts.
-use a dowel or block of wood and locate the front snout raised edges (left and right) and use these marks to lightly tap snout forward evenly with and hammer.
-catch any oil when case separates with old rags
-if snout separates with gear and rotor assembly that is OK, separate them later.
-carefully pull rotor pack straight out and set aside on towel.
-remove bypass canister
DONE.

-To reasemble clean 6 snout bolt threads and chase threads.
-install rotor pack and bearing grease if needed.
-use a very thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black high temp sealer and between sount and gear pack. Use a bit of removable thread compound on 6 snout bolts.
-torque in 2 steps 10 ft pounds and 18 ft pounds, working from the inside out.
-let dry
-add oil and bypass canister and install on car.

This will not take you very long at all, not even time to drink one beer. I ported my stock M122 and disassembled my TVS recently.
Anything else just ask.

As for your oil question my 13 TVS had 1200 miles on it and the oil was good. I removed it with a syringe to save it. I let it drip through a double coffee filter incase it may have had minute gear chips in it then I reused it..
If you are adding new oil you could use GM Supercharger oil (need two 4 oz bottles) or Amsoil 10W30 Synthetic is great too.
 
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Superfly99

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I could be wrong, but if you are sending it to Brian I think he can send you the oil when he returns your blower. Send him PM asking....
 

Black Sex

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I work at a GM dealer so that's where I got it. The GM oil is 12345982 and list out for $10.89 each
 

Black Sex

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The Ford SC oil is too $$. Try any GM dealer, same oil better price. I paid $5.75 for a 4 oz bottle in Canada.

My cost (C+10%) was $7 per bottle. But IIRC my cost on the Ford oil was close to $17.
Deffinetly buy it from GM
 

iwannacobra5

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i was thinking of doing this then polishing mine. i've heard that you need to protect the bearings inside (not sure which ones). it was suggested to me to tape them up. i haven't seen any mention of bearings in the thread. any comments on that?

OP, the SC will be powdercoated but i'm sure brian will take it off. if you wanted to do it yourself, aircraft paint remover will do it easily.
 

Red-GT500

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I think a lot of powder coating places will sand blast the parts prior to re coating. I have a local guy that does amazing work with powder coating and have considered having him do my blower and valve covers. The only thing is how do i make sure he doesnt leave any residual sand in the blower? Im not sure if there are any places it could really hide but dont the rear bearings stay in place? or do they just pop out easily?
 

Black Sex

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i was thinking of doing this then polishing mine. i've heard that you need to protect the bearings inside (not sure which ones). it was suggested to me to tape them up. i haven't seen any mention of bearings in the thread. any comments on that?

OP, the SC will be powdercoated but i'm sure brian will take it off. if you wanted to do it yourself, aircraft paint remover will do it easily.

I did alittle grinding on the opening of mine and just put some tape over the rear bearings. When I was done I rinsed the case with brake cleaner and blew out with air. When I put the rotors back in I did add a dab of grease to the the tit of the rotors.

I think a lot of powder coating places will sand blast the parts prior to re coating. I have a local guy that does amazing work with powder coating and have considered having him do my blower and valve covers. The only thing is how do i make sure he doesnt leave any residual sand in the blower? Im not sure if there are any places it could really hide but dont the rear bearings stay in place? or do they just pop out easily?

My rear bearings stayed in the case. I pulled the front plate off and did not remove my rotors from the plate. Other than where the rear bearings go and the vacuum ports I don't think there are too many places for it to hide.
 
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brian98svtsnake

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I'm just going to be super carefull and take my time. If I run in to any problems I'll just bring the pieces to whomever I have install it lol. Thanks for all the advice
 

03 DSG Snake

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What are shops typically charging to grind the 5.8 off and paint/powder the case?
 

brian98svtsnake

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So I got it apart, very easy like everyone said. I'm getting ready to send it to Brian P. in CA but I'm thinking the plastic, not sure what it is but I'm guessing its some sort of bypass valve, should come off. I see the two bolts holding it on but I'm not sure how it would detach from the linkage. Pics or any help would be appreciated.
 

iwannacobra5

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So I got it apart, very easy like everyone said. I'm getting ready to send it to Brian P. in CA but I'm thinking the plastic, not sure what it is but I'm guessing its some sort of bypass valve, should come off. I see the two bolts holding it on but I'm not sure how it would detach from the linkage. Pics or any help would be appreciated.

glad to hear you go it apart. can you post a pic of the piece you're talking about so that we'll have it for future reference. thanks!
 

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