2013 5.0 track pack build suggestions

[hotstyles513]

hey guys,

kinda new to the forum so bear with me, i was wondering if i could get a few opinions on what kinda build would help me achieve 600-700 rwhp. obviously there are a lot of different ways to do it i.e turbo, supercharge, maybe N./A:-D just looking for different suggestions from people... parts they would add first and last? Price really isn't a factor bc as we all know at the end of the day we do this for the love of our car.

Merry Christmas everyone and god bless

 

[Scott8583]

I like my Roush TVS for its stock like manners & reliability combined with instant power from 1500rpm to 7500... My old combo made 600whp thru an auto. New combo will be upgrading rods, pistons, oil pump gears, & fuel system. I should be making 700 to 740whp on E85 and be able to drive it anywhere.

I like turbos too, but I'd only hassle with them if I was looking to build a 8sec car.

 

[08mojo]

Build the rest of the car to support the power first. I'd start with suspension.

 

[PapaSmurf03]

I'd figure out what exactly it is you want out of the car first (dyno queen, drag racing, roll racing, auto x, etc) different power adders and suspension setups will get you where you want and how you want. Also what's your preference? Some guys love nitrous, some hate it, some guys love twin screws and centrifugals, and then you have the turbo guys.

If you have an auto or manual can make a difference also. If you plan on 700whp you most likely will be on borrowed time with the shortblock.

 

[Scott8583]

looking back on my set up, I'd do a couple things different. Like the posts above stated, think of what your long term goal is. If 650 whp is plenty for you, I'd install oil pump gears BEFORE you install a power adder. I think a stock motor w/ oil pump gears will live on 650whp if its feed E85 (quality fuel). oil pump gears are expensive to have someone install, & propably even more expensive with extra blower crap in the way.
If 650whp is not enough, then you can sell your motor BEFORE it ever has a blower/turbo for around $4K and get an aluminator. If you have the room in your garage to swap motors your self, then thats the cheapest way.
I guess option 3 is probably what most of us do... Make alot of power on the stock motor & cross your fingers! Lol! When it blows up, then worry about it!
I would have done the aluminator thing, but I already had a blower on mine & wouldn't feel right selling a motor that I've beat the piss out of. so I'm upgrading my internals over the winter, so my $hit isn't down next summer.

Its Crazy how easy these Coyotes make HP with boost!

I think fuel is a limiting factor on HP... you can only run so much boost & so much timing on pump gas...

 

[jymboslice]

I'd skip a centri and go straight to a turbo if I did it again. I'd also skip lowering springs/adjustable shocks and Struts and go straight to coil overs.

 

[PC03GT]

Be prepared to open your wallet. Do the suspension first and go from there.:lol1:

 

[darreng505]

Build the rest of the car to support the power first. I'd start with suspension.

This.

 

[bullet3z]

Is it really worth spending the money on a 600 to 700 hp car for driving around Guam? Just wondering what the roads are even like there? What is the cost to ship items there?

 

[hotstyles513]

hey guys thx for the ideas! ironically i was leaning toward full suspension before i even posted!! whats the best one out there... preferably coilovers and etc. that will most likely be my next add on.... after that i would like to go for boost :lol:. as far as boosting methods im not sure ...so plz keep the ideas coming? i would like to stay within the coyotes hp limits! once i learn how to work the site ill definitely post pics and updates..........


thx god bless

 

[hotstyles513]

Is it really worth spending the money on a 600 to 700 hp car for driving around Guam? Just wondering what the roads are even like there? What is the cost to ship items there?

hey man just stationed here for another year im active duty air force....orginially from ohio but call england home now! APO's are free to ship 2 just takes forever getting here. oh yea roads suck lol but isnt gonna stop me from building.

FORD= First on race day

 

[MRGTX]

Is it correct to say that a stock shortblock is typically ok for 600rwhp?

If so, I'd take a serious look at the price jump required for that extra bit of power.

 

['14 Shelby]

Is it correct to say that a stock shortblock is typically ok for 600rwhp?

If so, I'd take a serious look at the price jump required for that extra bit of power.

I've heard a number of times the 600 number is "safe" but occasionally you'll see someone who blew something up with far less. Its really a crap shoot. Some blame on tuners, other blame on fuel etc. Either way OP, it makes sense to get your suspension dialed in to the way you hope to have it. I see you want to run coilovers, so you'll need an Adj. Panhard along with that at minimum. You should also consider the other 'standards' Upper Control Arm and Mount and LCA's with relo brackets.

Also if you are adding power to the 600-700 whp range you're going to need (and want) some good meats to get traction. Cant do that on stock wheels, so factor that in too.

As for the FI, I love my Roush and many guys swear by the turbos, yet others Centri. Its all a matter of whats ultimately in your budget

 

[wakebum2507]

I ran mine paxton 2200 @ 680ish for a few thousand miles, then sold the short block when i bought my built short block.

sub 700 is fun for a minute...then you race some people and want more.

the smarter choice is obviously to get a built SB, arp head studs, and upgraded valve springs and do it all yourself. Most people can't do that. that's where it gets pricey.

if you ever think you'll want to go above 800hp, id go turbo now. plus...torque is nice to have. and a paxton with a wastegate won't get you that. ask me how i know...