2013 Door speaker upgrades..

...Mark...

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Anybody swapped em out yet? If so what did you go with and how straight forward was the install?

Called Crutchfield and they only have rears listed as they have not done the R&D on the fronts yet.

TIA
 

dirtyd88

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I don't see why the 2013 base and shaker system are any different that the 2011-2012 door panels.

I have a Alpine SPX-17PRO system waiting to go into my front doors.
 

Eric L

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pulled factory crap out of the doors as well as the factory amps and went with polk component set up, and one 10 in the trunk. After i threw an amp on the components they sounded great. Don't worry about upgrading the doors subs, just take them out.
 

Eric L

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to answer ur question the instal wasn't all that bad, thats if u want to go with components. The only tricky part is making a trim piece for the smaller driver to go in the place of the door sub. And of course u will have to tap the factory speakers for a line converter for the amp. But thats about it.
 

GT915

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This is a good question. I too have the base model sound system and wish to improve it. I called crutchfield and they said either 5x7 or 6x8 fit in the doors as well as the rear deck. I have an alpine 4 channel amp and 4 polk audio 5x7 speakers that I'd like to install and use the factory head unit. This is a job that I am not looking forward to as I am sure it will be very time consuming. I need to research this further as I don't want to dick anything up taking it apart.
 

TheVikingRL

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It's actually a bit easier with the base model since you have a full range signal coming out to the speakers. With the Shaker setup it's actually more involved since the factory signal is split amongst the speakers. This is the easiest way to tap into the factory harness IMO.

Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

I used mostly JL Audio stuff but about anything is a huge improvement over the stock speakers, especially up front. Plenty of plug-n-play speakers available since they are just standard 4ohm stuff. JL and Kicker make sub box kits designed to fit in the corner of the trunk. Not cheap but if you want more bass they sound incredible. I used ZR800's in the door sub locations but this is a bit more of an effort since you can't use the factory amp setup. On the plus side they fit in the factory enclosure and you can keep the stock grill with minimal effort.

Wiring the amp is actually pretty easy IF your amp has the auto-sensing remote signal. Otherwise you have to tap into the factory junction box or harness for a 12v remote signal. Thanks to Ford using a 5v factory amp signal. It's also pretty easy to get a power wire into the trunk since the factory grommet has a spot which works perfectly.

Grommet2.jpg
 
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kingnut

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I was impressed with the premium stock system. And thats coming from a 2 amp setup with mb quart components and single 12" sub.

As far as the base system i would go ahead and swap out the head unit. The pioneer 6.1 navi bt940 is $520 on amazon. That way you have navi, bluetooth, ipod control, and true preouts to feed amps for components and a sub. That stealth box guys have on here looks awesome and they say it puts out some sound.
 

dirtyd88

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I plan on deadening my doors probably even before I do the speaker install. Also plan on deadening underneath the rear seat and the trunk area as well.
 

KidMoney

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I put a Boston SPG 555 Loaded Enclosure with a Kicker 1500 in my premium GT and it sounds great. I personally don't think you need to add anything but some more bass to the car. Lol. Sound deadener is a must if you do a sub.
 

Muzner

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I've got a Boss and this was my answer to someone else when they asked about the stereo:


First of all I used the Schosche head unit replacement.

Amazon.com: Scosche FD1441B 2010 Ford Mustang Double DIN and DIN with Pocket: Car Electronics

My thoughts on it, the buttons feel a bit cheap, the touchscreen isn't bad though. Overall it's not bad. But big warning here! Flash the firmware to the latest, otherwise it will drain your battery. It killed mine while we were on vacation at a cabin. Thankfully had someone around with jumper cables.


I used this wiring harness. It was supposed to retain the sync system. Which I'm assuming it will but I didn't have my phone paired with the car to start with, so I have no idea if it works with it now. I didn't worry about the USB port in the console, I use one from the back of my headunit running into the glove box to plug in my usb drive.

Amazon.com: PAC MS-FRD1 Radio Replacement Interface with SYNC Retention: Car Electronics

I'm still waiting on this steering wheel controls to come in, but I shouldn't have any issues with it.

Amazon.com: SWI&PS - PAC Steering wheel control interface for Pioneer and Sony NEW Version 1.6.8 with Bluetooth: Car Electronics

Just make sure that you buy the one that's the correct one for your headunit brand. I bought the wrong one to start with for my pioneer.

This is the headunit I bought, I don't really have any complaints about it. I didn't care about having one with navigation on it. I have an android phone so I miss out on some of the features for this one though.

Amazon.com: Pioneer AVH-P8400BH 2-DIN Multimedia DVD Receiver with 7" Widescreen Touch Panel Display, Advanced App Mode, Built-In Bluetooth, and HD Radio™: Electronics


I bought this antenna adapter, works fine.

Antenna Adapter Works with select 2002-up vehicles at Crutchfield.com

This is the amp that I bought, no issues with it. I have the gain on the sub and speakers set to 3 currently, and it's quite loud.

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate Prime 600-Watt 5-Channel Amplifier: Car Electronics


This is the sub I bought. It works fine for what I wanted, nothing earth-shattering. It fits in the trunk well because of the size of it. I didn't want the one that fits in the wheel well because it blocks the adjustable suspension and it's probably a pain to take out when I autocross.

JL Audio CS110-WXv2 Sealed BassWedge™ enclosure with one 10" WXv2 subwoofer at Crutchfield.com


These are the speakers I bought, I replaced the front and rears. They are a little on the bright side, but I fixed that with the EQ on the headunit.

Amazon.com: Pioneer TSD6802R 6 X 8 2-Way 260 Watt Speakers: Electronics



I also used like 50 feet of speaker wire, 3 12+ ft RCA cables, and a sub/amp kit. Plastic pry tools and a strap wrench for the shift knob are an absolute must.

My impressions, I had a 2012 GT before this with the electronics package and shaker system. So I would say its much better sounding, the clarity and how loud it gets surpasses any stock stereo system I've had before. So I'm quite pleased with it.
 

cdog1157

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Anybody swapped em out yet? If so what did you go with and how straight forward was the install?

Called Crutchfield and they only have rears listed as they have not done the R&D on the fronts yet.

TIA

I just put a pair of cheap 5x7 Pioneers in the doors and it makes a huge difference, definately worth $75 and a little time. I can swap them both out in 30 minutes now, but there's videos on youtube on how to change them and it's not hard at all. You just need some 5x7 or 6x8 speakers and the Metra speaker harness adaptors. The adaptors snap together but I'd still tape them while pushing them tight because I've had problems in my 11 and 13 with them not getting a good connection until I taped them. Unless you plan to go all out and put a new radio, sub and amp then I wouldn't waste the time changing the rear deck speakers.
 

TheVikingRL

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This is really a simple procedure unless you buy speakers with a remote mount crossover. You're going to be surprised how quickly this goes after you've done one side.

Also, you can buy the trim removal tools at most auto part stores as well.
 
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TheVikingRL

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They are usually call pry tools or trim removal kits. It's literally just a spade to get underneath the clip/push pin heads.
 
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