2014 GT500 Purchase questions

[Silver Talon]

3rd gear in my 13 shifts out at 130, so 4th would be nearly 170, which I can verify from a trip to Mexico.

 

[Doubt 1T]

3rd gear in my 13 shifts out at 130, so 4th would be nearly 170, which I can verify from a trip to Mexico.

Oh damn, well i guess i wont be testing that lol Im still deciding on this warranty. If i get the MWG and change the fluid around if something happened it seems like id have a hard time with Ford.

Question for all, besides the MGW should i change out all the fluid right off the bat?

 

[tomshep]

I would do motor oil and filter so you know where you are unless you can get proof of the mileage of the last change. Mobil 1 Synthetic in the tranny. I wouldn't worry about the diff fluid.

Tom

 

[Doubt 1T]

I would do motor oil and filter so you know where you are unless you can get proof of the mileage of the last change. Mobil 1 Synthetic in the tranny. I wouldn't worry about the diff fluid.

Tom

Tom,

Do you have any links by any chance to exactly which one? And leave the Diff alone? How about the Brake fluid? Change it to DOT4 or for now leave it be. I’m not intending to do any track stuff for awhile, I’d figure the car is 5-6 years old what should I swap out.

 

[biminiLX]

Great deal for a loaded glass roof car.
I also have the glass roof and it’ll likely become you’re favorite option.
Definitely no need to stress about the warranty (Flood Ford used to be the place to get Ford ESP warranty for the best price). If the car has a clean one owner history and it’s cleared by the dealer, I would personally put the money into the car than the warranty.
As far as the shifter, the MGW is great and will not harm or change the trans in a negative way.
My advice, swap the rear tires ASAP.
If it has the stock Goodyears it’ll try and kill you under 70 degrees. Not joking.
Once the tires are swapped, I’d just start driving the car and enjoy it, see what YOU want to improve.
Personally, R-compound rear tires, rear gear 4.10s, Lund or proven local tune are the top 3 mods.
I ran 11.03@128 just with those 3 changes.
I personally liked my stock trans and shifter, so don’t stress the shifter.
6th gear is 0.50 also, so even with a gear swap, 80mph is 2000rpm, so no need to think it’s too much as long as you run a sticky R tire.
Good luck and welcome.
-J

 

[fearthesnake]

Great deal for a loaded glass roof car.
If it has the stock Goodyears it’ll try and kill you under 70 degrees. Not joking.
Once the tires are swapped, I’d just start driving the car and enjoy it, see what YOU want to improve.
Personally, R-compound rear tires, rear gear 4.10s, Lund or proven local tune are the top 3 mods.
I ran 11.03@128 just with those 3 changes.
I personally liked my stock trans and shifter, so don’t stress the shifter.
6th gear is 0.50 also, so even with a gear swap, 80mph is 2000rpm, so no need to think it’s too much as long as you run a sticky R tire.
Good luck and welcome.
-J

Boy, Gears and Tires really wake these cars up.

Imagine with exhaust (LTH/Off Road Pipe) and more Boost(upper pulley) puts the car in the 10's over 130mph trap speed?

 

[tomshep]

Tom,

Do you have any links by any chance to exactly which one? And leave the Diff alone? How about the Brake fluid? Change it to DOT4 or for now leave it be. I’m not intending to do any track stuff for awhile, I’d figure the car is 5-6 years old what should I swap out.

I believe in proper maintenance but also don't overdue maintenance. Which one--meaning motor oil? Ask 10 people get 10 expert answers. Personally, I juts run Motorcraft as specified. I keep the receipts and record the date changed and mileage to help me if the motor ever fails and I end up in a warranty claim. Diffs go for tens of thousands of miles. You aren't anywhere near needing a change unless you believe it was in deep water. I wouldn't worry about the brake fluid either. But, if it gives you peace of mind then go for it. I am sure some others will disagree and that is all good.

Tom

 

[Doubt 1T]

*Update*

So good news bad news. The gentlemen dropped off the car today everything is ready to go for Monday but he said on the way to the dealer the engine light came on, he said he passed a pretty heavy construction zone but he wasn’t sure if it’s related...great.... He had the dealer diag it and it came up with a Cylinder 2 misfire. He told the dealer whatever needs to be to fix it , fix it. He said he’s not going to sell me a car that’s messed up that he will take care what needs to be done. So Then the dealer called me and said he’s a really nice guy that’s wants to do right whatever it is to fix it. So I thought that was really cool and if I felt a certain way that he would understand if I decided not to buy it. The dealer said they drove it around to the bay and it seemed ok.

so maybe I should get the warranty lol

The dealer just drove it around to the bay and it seemed fine. The dealer said they think it might be a plug or Coil pack that they will have more info Monday for me. I don’t have the code handy on me. Any ideas fellas?

 

[biminiLX]

Not your car yet, so I’d let the dealer do what they do.
I’d personally request a compression and leak down check.
-J

 

[Doubt 1T]

Not your car yet, so I’d let the dealer do what they do.
I’d personally request a compression and leak down check.
-J

Right, Yeah I spoke to the owner about a compression check, he said he will talk to them about it and see what they think. I told the dealer I want it done but he said if we think it needs it we will do it. Not sure about a leak down as that wasn’t discussed but Monday am I’m going to call and be alittle more firm about doing it regardless in a nice way, the owner already knows how I feel about it.