2nd block cracked. Opinions

04OWwhipple

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I have now cracked my second iron block. What are you guys running that makes big power reliably? I'm running somewhere around 800-850RWHP on boost only on the car but want to go more power later. Right around 23PSI usually but have gone up to 29PSI a time or two. This is now the second block that has cracked. This time was cylinders 7&8. Last time a couple years ago I found it cracked on all cylinders on bank 2 and got another iron block and had it machined. Probably only have 2000 miles on this block.


Current setup is iron block, Oliver rods, MMR pistons, stock heads/cams, on a Haltech 2500 ECU
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badcobra

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Did you go .020" over on both blocks? You can see in your pic how thin the liner is on an iron block. The recipe for 'big' power on mod motors has been the same for quite a long time now. Aluminum block with a minimal overbore and a custom sized piston. Your power level, any of the aluminum blocks will work fine, but the Teksid is superior to all.
 

04OWwhipple

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Did you go .020" over on both blocks? You can see in your pic how thin the liner is on an iron block. The recipe for 'big' power on mod motors has been the same for quite a long time now. Aluminum block with a minimal overbore and a custom sized piston. Your power level, any of the aluminum blocks will work fine, but the Teksid is superior to all.
No, the first block was the factory unopened long block and rotating assembly. The second block was .020 with new rods and pistons and retained the factory crank. Teksids seem hard to find in my short research last night. I found a 3V block I was thinking about going to as it does seem like the iron block isn't going to live with what I want out of it.

I would like to reuse my rotating assembly which is .020 over and machine a 3V block .020 over and reassemble. Eventually I would like to see 1100ish out of the car so would like a block that will hold up.

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badcobra

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No, the first block was the factory unopened long block and rotating assembly. The second block was .020 with new rods and pistons and retained the factory crank. Teksids seem hard to find in my short research last night. I found a 3V block I was thinking about going to as it does seem like the iron block isn't going to live with what I want out of it.

I would like to reuse my rotating assembly which is .020 over and machine a 3V block .020 over and reassemble. Eventually I would like to see 1100ish out of the car so would like a block that will hold up.

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I would recommend not reusing your pistons and do a custom size with a minimal overbore. The block will hold up, but when you need a rebuild you're already at the end of the line with it. Your money, do what you want. I'm on my 2nd hone job on my current engine and there is room for one more when/if that is needed. Making 1600whp
 

01yellercobra

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Didn't someone on here go through a couple blocks only to find out it was an ECU issue? Might be worth checking everything before taking out another block.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Didn't someone on here go through a couple blocks only to find out it was an ECU issue? Might be worth checking everything before taking out another block.
you talking about @98 Saleen Cobra ? pretty sure he was losing motors because the ECU was leaning out a cylinder randomly. He can elaborate but I thought I remembered him saying it was a narrow range of cars that had that issue
 

04OWwhipple

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Didn't someone on here go through a couple blocks only to find out it was an ECU issue? Might be worth checking everything before taking out another block.
I would definitely be interested to hear it but don't think that would match up 100%. When I discovered the original block was cracked, I was on a gen 2 2.9 Whipple on E85 with the stock ECU. I went about replacing the block as well as installing the Haltech standalone as well as the Whipple 3.0. So the first engine cracked on stock ECU and now this one has cracked on the Haltech ECU.

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98 Saleen Cobra

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Mine was ecu related. Never cracked a block.

His isn’t ecu related. You’re simply over powering the block for some reason. The iron blocks aren’t good for much past 850-900 esp on that boost level of 29psi. You need to find a clean teksid. Keep it std bore or take as little meat out as possible. Or sleeve with darton sleeves. Spend the money now and save the headaches and heart aches
 

04OWwhipple

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I know I did have a problem in cylinder 8 at one point too. I would put new plugs in gapped to .022, I would get about 200 miles driving and then it would start to misfire at WOT. I would pull all the plugs and all would be at .022 except for cylinder 8. Cylinder 8 would be between .035-.045. I would close the gap or replace it and get another 100-150 miles and it would do it again. I richened it up 0.5 target AFR and pulled 0.2 degrees timing from that cylinder and haven't have that plug gap open up since. So I think this crack has been there for the last 500-600 miles but finally opened up to the point that all the coolant dumped into the oil pan.


Yeah, Im definitely going to do a Teksid. There is 8 mark VIII'S at a junkyard in Vegas which is about 4 hours from me. I'm going to head up there in the next couple of weeks and see if I can snag 2 Teksid so I have another as a backup.

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offroadkarter

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Teksids seem hard to find in my short research last night.

Any 93-98 Lincoln Mark 8 (as well as the 96-99 cobras) will have a Teksid block. Being in OR I'd expect there are still enough Mark 8's on the road that you may find a few in the JY.

I know Ford had said the Nemak made block (3v block) was supposed to be super strong, they claim the strongest, which is what they used on the aluminator mod motors. You can still get new Nemak blocks from Ford last I checked.
 

Blkkbgt

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I know Ford had said the Nemak made block (3v block) was supposed to be super strong, they claim the strongest, which is what they used on the aluminator mod motors. You can still get new Nemak blocks from Ford last I checked.
Yes they are still available but at a premium price. They've gone way un in the last two years.
 

04OWwhipple

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Any 93-98 Lincoln Mark 8 (as well as the 96-99 cobras) will have a Teksid block. Being in OR I'd expect there are still enough Mark 8's on the road that you may find a few in the JY.

I know Ford had said the Nemak made block (3v block) was supposed to be super strong, they claim the strongest, which is what they used on the aluminator mod motors. You can still get new Nemak blocks from Ford last I checked.
Well I moved to Phoenix, AZ just haven't changed the location on here. There is none is AZ but there is 8 mark 8s at pick n pulls in Vegas. Im going up on 11/10 and pulling 2-4 blocks in that weekend to take back home with me. However many I can get in a weekend. I did one here in AZ this week and it took me about 4 hours but the head bolts broke off in the block so now it's unusable.

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04OWwhipple

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Should've still grabbed it. I bet a machine shop could have gotten them out.
I did grab it. 2 machine shops said no. I tried getting it out but it's done. Broke extractor off in it now. The bolt is about 2.5 inch recessed below the deck so it's not in a great spot to get to.

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Blkkbgt

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Well I moved to Phoenix, AZ just haven't changed the location on here. There is none is AZ but there is 8 mark 8s at pick n pulls in Vegas. Im going up on 11/10 and pulling 2-4 blocks in that weekend to take back home with me. However many I can get in a weekend. I did one here in AZ this week and it took me about 4 hours but the head bolts broke off in the block so now it's unusable.

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How hard is it to pull the engine on those cars?

I ask because there are several around me but I just don't have the time to snag one.

I know it's not the best but I bought a brand new WAP block for this very reason. I'll never push it past its limit so it was a no brainer at the price I paid.
 

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