4v cam tools

wkornf

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Some help please ,several of the reviews mention needing 2 complete kits... is this true? Im trying to replace head gaskets with engine still in car

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-6498/


These are used to keep the timing? torque the sprocket? Maybe?
Seems like some people just use a 3/8 drive ratchet instead

18F2ybU.jpg


What the heck is this one used for? The cam is round isnt it? what purpose could these serve? Whatever they do people seem to want 2 of them..

9Sy33dW.jpg


Also while were at it, whats this one for?

5LdstSB.jpg


Thanks in advance for help :rolling:
 

01yellercobra

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I never used any of those tools when I did my cams. Maybe those would have made life easier. But i didn't have any issues without them.

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Shadow Grey 03

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I used the first 2 when I did my head studs and gaskets. The 2nd one holds the cams in place while you put the chains back on. Made my life a lot easier.
 

98 N/A 4V

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If all you are doing is swap head gaskets then you don't have to take the cams out. Before you pull the chains off. Make a mark on the primary and secondar sprockets so that you get the correct link and tooth aligned. As long as you don't turn the crank over or turn the cams, the timing remains unchanged.

But I didn't use any of those tools when I swapped cams.

Careful a fully dressed 4v head is heavy as fuk! lol. I think around 55lbs. Having a buddy helps.

-Mark
 

wkornf

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If all you are doing is swap head gaskets then you don't have to take the cams out. Before you pull the chains off. Make a mark on the primary and secondar sprockets so that you get the correct link and tooth aligned. As long as you don't turn the crank over or turn the cams, the timing remains unchanged.

But I didn't use any of those tools when I swapped cams.

Careful a fully dressed 4v head is heavy as fuk! lol. I think around 55lbs. Having a buddy helps.

-Mark

Once you remove the crank chain wont the head snap to a new location due to the springs, possibly damaging the Valves? Or are you removing all the followers?

Also still not understanding the purpose of that second tool... seems the first one would be all you need to keep cam alignment
 

01yellercobra

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I've always pulled the followers before pulling the chains. No need to worry about the cams spinning. Most people probably wouldn't approve of how I do it, but I haven't had any issues.
 

jrgoffin

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Jrgoffin the link you put in does not include using the camshaft tools. Is there another link?

They are all in there - I used them in the build, especially to set the crank and later to hold the cams. The tensioner tool is useless, but the others do come in handy.
 

wkornf

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They are all in there - I used them in the build, especially to set the crank and later to hold the cams. The tensioner tool is useless, but the others do come in handy.

can't you use the tool that goes on the back of the head for positioning and holding and torqueing
. second tool seems redundant, does it just hold the cams by clamping on the smooth part of the cam? I wouldn't think that's effective unless you're nearly crushing the cam.
 

jrgoffin

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Literally,one of your last threads says stay tuned for the timing gear so you evidently didn't post the installation. Thanks!;-)

Look at the ToC in the very first post - it will show you what is on every page, including the gears and decreeing process. The engine has been in the car for over six months, and everything was documented in the 42+ pages of the build thread.
 

jrgoffin

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can't you use the tool that goes on the back of the head for positioning and holding and torqueing
. second tool seems redundant, does it just hold the cams by clamping on the smooth part of the cam? I wouldn't think that's effective unless you're nearly crushing the cam.

The first tool is for alignment, the second holds them in place while you torque down the snout bolt. The third tool is basically useless - meant to spread the secondary tensioners.
 

wkornf

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The first tool is for alignment, the second holds them in place while you torque down the snout bolt. The third tool is basically useless - meant to spread the secondary tensioners.


Thanks for all the info! Nice build, i only got thru 1/10 of it so far.
 

wkornf

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So it looks like however you do this job you need to remove all the roller followers before taking the heads off? Is that correct?

Is it possible to remove/install all of them with the screwdriver technique? I'm working with the engine in the fenders.
 

98 N/A 4V

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Once you remove the crank chain wont the head snap to a new location due to the springs, possibly damaging the Valves? Or are you removing all the followers?

Also still not understanding the purpose of that second tool... seems the first one would be all you need to keep cam alignment

TO be honest I can't remember. If anything it may hsift a hair but it would be an amount you would move it manually to align the chains.

So it looks like however you do this job you need to remove all the roller followers before taking the heads off? Is that correct?

Is it possible to remove/install all of them with the screwdriver technique? I'm working with the engine in the fenders.

I have always used a screw driver. Bleeding them makes the job MUCH easier. Trust me.

-Mark
 

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