i put new stainless brake lines on and now the pedal feels horrible and ive bleed them a lot but i cant get good pressure to the rears,when i crack the bleeders the pedal dont go down but a little fluid comes out any help will b greatly app thanks
99 brakes bleeding prob
- Thread starter 9secondnotch
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It really takes two people to do this right. Start on the right rear, left rear, right front, then finally left front. Have someone sit in the driver seat and press on the brake pedal for you. Open the bleeder and then have them start pumping the brakes. Watch for air bubbles and new fluid to come out into the bleeder container. Bleed the brakes with the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and top it off with new fluid very often.
Running the reservoir dry while bleeding brakes is bad, air will get into the system and a trip to the local dealership will probably follow to get all the air back out of the system.
Once the fluid looks clear and free of bubbles have the person push and hold the pedal down and close the bleeder at the same time.
Running the reservoir dry while bleeding brakes is bad, air will get into the system and a trip to the local dealership will probably follow to get all the air back out of the system.
Once the fluid looks clear and free of bubbles have the person push and hold the pedal down and close the bleeder at the same time.
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uhhh....really? I agree with 100% of everything else you said. I always do cap on and occasionally add fluid to my reservoir
brakes
ok thanks had done all of that it was actually air n the master i bleed that now all is good thanks
ok thanks had done all of that it was actually air n the master i bleed that now all is good thanks
Buy a pressure bleeder and never have any issues again. Air in the ABS pump is a killer
Was going to suggest bleeding the master cylinder, glad you're all set now.
What purpose does the cap have when bleeding the system?
some believe it'll keep the master from going dry..I've heard it from old timers.
Yeah and one old timer I talked to told me to turn the engine over a few times after dropping the oil to "get all the oil outta tha engine".
Brake fluid keeps the master from going dry. Thats why its easier to have the cap off when beelding brakes. Instead of installing and reinstalling it a dozen times for no reason.
Brake fluid keeps the master from going dry. Thats why its easier to have the cap off when beelding brakes. Instead of installing and reinstalling it a dozen times for no reason.
In some applications it can actually lead to failure of master cylinders. As well as it helps maintain system pressure and prevents inducing new bubbles from the actually master cylinder, often you can see them form in the reservoir when pumping the pedal. Taking a second more to put the cap back on prevents all these (yes I understand this varies from model and system) just saying....thats why
In some apps? Lets not get too complicated here, we're discussing mustangs.
No, Ive never seen that, how do bubbles form in the fluid with the cap off versus cap on? The cap isnt completely air tight as it sits so what about having the cap on prevents bubbles from forming in the reservoir when the pedal is pumped?
No, Ive never seen that, how do bubbles form in the fluid with the cap off versus cap on? The cap isnt completely air tight as it sits so what about having the cap on prevents bubbles from forming in the reservoir when the pedal is pumped?
That is a load of BS you heard.
Fluid level is what prevents all that. The cap has nothing to do with it.
I was just about to say, whoever told you that there was a benefit in having the cap on when you're bleeding the brakes is full of crap. Keeping the level topped off is what keeps the master cylinder from running dry. In fact, I believe the Ford Service Manual calls for you to pop the cap off and monitor the fluid level.
The only way air is going to be pulled into the system is if you don't have the hose end off the bleeder valve submerged in brake fluid while you're pumping the brakes to bleed them.
The only way air is going to be pulled into the system is if you don't have the hose end off the bleeder valve submerged in brake fluid while you're pumping the brakes to bleed them.
Sigh well I have seen/done it so I didn't hear anything. Maybe there was some additional issue or horrible coincidence but once was enough and ever since I put the cap on, never had an issue since. But that's ok I was just saying...
Living in the south makes me put the cap back on after adding brake fluid each time. And closing the bottle while I'm bleeding. It's so humid here and brake fluid is hydrophilic. Any moisture absorbed by brake fluid will reduce its life and may cause rust in your system. If I lived in Phoenix -- not a problem. Some may say it's not too long to keep it open but we all tend to be anal about something when it comes to our cars -- this is one of mine.
it's not that instant for pete's sake
I'm having the same problem in my 04 GT but i dont get any pressure to the front or back, my brakes fully pressed dont remotely stop the wheels. Do i also need to bleed the Master? I think the bleeder screws on my master are pretty stuck in. Any advice would be tits.
Thanks
Thanks
Like I said, it's one of the things I'm anal about w/my cars. But I have a question: If, after you put the master cylinder cap on, the system is sealed, when/how does the moisture get in the system?
It's not a perfect seal. If it was it would have to be a vacuum to do that. Plus there is air right underneath the cap with the gap between the fluid level and the cap.
Get the Motive Products "Power Bleeder" and you will never go back to bleeding brakes the old-fashioned way again.
Takes very little time and the pedal will be rock hard. Did my SUV and my Cobra recently (after adding the Brembo calipers) and the brakes are fantastic.
Takes very little time and the pedal will be rock hard. Did my SUV and my Cobra recently (after adding the Brembo calipers) and the brakes are fantastic.
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