Motor is all stock minus the pulley, plugs, and tune...
this is weird....
Im not sure but you need to fix what you know is wrong. starting with the abs lamp and go from there.
Motor is all stock minus the pulley, plugs, and tune...
I personally turn those off because ive seen them have issues on even at 7k....
this is weird....
Im not sure but you need to fix what you know is wrong. starting with the abs lamp and go from there.
are you 100% sure the coils and plugs are ok?
you need to pull the coil covers and verify this.
id pull the plugs and check the gap on them.
post pics of the coils and the plugs. it almost sounds like a fuel issue also.
what fuel system do you have?
list all your mods
Mods are: 2.76 upper/ 100mm aux
Tr6 plugs (unknown gap)
K&n filter/ stock intake
Upr o/r x and stingers
McLeod rxt 26spline w/ all the helpings
Lpw diff cover
Mgw orange handle
H&R race springs
Fuel system is literally bone stock
New fuel filter in march
Thing is, it runs fine on the street. Always has... Put it on the dyno (1st time in 3 yrs) and it won't rev past 4600.
Also I data logged the fpdc, and my pumps are at 90%/ maf was @ 1006. All in 60* weather. Timing peaked at 20.25.
I don't have a wideband but at the dyno it was reading extremely lean low in the rpms... Then once he punched it, it slowly came down to the low 12's. Too lean I know. One of the primary reason for going to the dyno. At 4600 rpm a/r was 12.08. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Like I said absolutely no problems on the street.
Seems like you don't think it's the problem anymore but I've tested my sensors with a DMM. You put it on AC Voltage and connect it to the sensor. Drive at a constant known speed and record voltage. Move to the next untill one sticks out or isn't consistent.
Seems like you don't think it's the problem anymore but I've tested my sensors with a DMM. You put it on AC Voltage and connect it to the sensor. Drive at a constant known speed and record voltage. Move to the next untill one sticks out or isn't consistent.
Well your on track to melt something at that rate bro. You need to stop hammering on it.
Needs to be 11.0-11.4 in boost
12 is to high
If your ABS module is bad that could be the cause of partial intermittent readings.
Not just the abs but everything. Rpm, volts, ect's, iat2's, timing, ect..... Only things working were the ones that use the apps accelerometer.
I would put an abs module in the car and then recheck things and see how it does.
That's my best educated guess from what all you have posted.
Ah. I have that problem when I datalog with my X3 and Live Link 6.x. It sucks. Gen II works longer but will still lock up after a few minutes, sometimes it'll go as long as 20 or 30 minutes without a lock up. Hit or miss. My bluetooth on the other hand hasn't been doing that.... knock on wood!! lol. It seems the variation of the ODB2 protocol used on our 03/04 cars is somewhat proprietary and I don't know if that's the source of the issues or what it is. Ford switched to fully compliant standards in 05. Although if you go read up on the ODB2 protocols there's at least 5 variations of the "standard" out there. It becomes a long complex topic I won't derail your thread with but I did a lot of reading up and research on it about a year ago when I built my own datalogging device that dumps the ODB2 data to either a serial stream or I2C complaint data and stored on an SD disk I could then later analyze at home on the laptop. I built it following ODB2 specs online intending to have a custom datalogging device with LCD display in my car but darn thing wouldn't work for crap. Finally out of frustration one day plugged it into my 07 BMW and it worked perfectly. That's when I started reading up on the differences in ODB2 protocols and various manufactures variations of the standards.