AGM battery

mebcop

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Hey guys, I am looking to put an AGM battery in my car for an upgraded stereo. I was hoping somebody has already gone through the pain in the butt of finding which ones fit/work the best ;-)

Thanks for any help.

BTW it will be about 2000wrms. A decent battery should be enough at that level. I got some dimming at 1600wrms with my idmax, and I'll be running 2k with my 12w7's.
 

Force Induced

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If your looking for a stock replacement the group 34 optima yellow top should be fine. Or you can get a group 34 kinetik / odyssey. Personally with that much power I would run a second battery in the trunk , I did that when I had 2 15's and 3k watts in my extended cab truck.
 
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hopony

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BTW it will be about 2000wrms. A decent battery should be enough at that level. I got some dimming at 1600wrms with my idmax, and I'll be running 2k with my 12w7's.

If dimming is your problem a large capacitor would be lighter and should fix your problem.
 

JohnRichard

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Hey guys, I am looking to put an AGM battery in my car for an upgraded stereo. I was hoping somebody has already gone through the pain in the butt of finding which ones fit/work the best ;-)

Thanks for any help.

BTW it will be about 2000wrms. A decent battery should be enough at that level. I got some dimming at 1600wrms with my idmax, and I'll be running 2k with my 12w7's.
Go with a 6 farad capacitor and some 0/2 gauge wire.
 

jasonc32amg

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If you're dimming I would address the Big 3 first to make sure you are maximizing what you have. Caps will not solve a real deficiency; they provide a very quick bit of headroom.

I have a 12w6 fed off an JL HD750 and a set of coax's running of an HD600 and don't get a hint of dimming on the stock set up.
 

mebcop

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I agree a capacitor is lighter than adding a battery, but the plan was to replace my stock battery. When I was on 1200wrms it would barely dim, but when I went up to 1600wrms it was a noticeable dim when played loud. Now moving up to 2000wrms+ I'm sure it'll be an issue.

It's funny how divided people are on capacitors in car stereo... So many people say that they're a sham and it is impossible that they do what they claim... I will have to do some more research tonight i guess. lol

I can't wait to hear these 12w7's sealed on 2krms!!!
 

Mugzy

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Everything I read says caps are a bandaid fix. It will help, but it will put more stress on your charging system. They do have their place though.

I went with a Duracel Platinum. 3 year replacement warranty . It's a group 47 I believe. It's a re-badged Deka battery. Pretty much the best you can buy.
 

clinton2003

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go with a dry cell battery near the amps with 4+ gauge wire coming from battery, a capacitor would help, but not going to be great. The only way to make sure you wont mess something up would be the 2nd battery. Then run some sort of isolater so you can run the stereo till that rear battery dies, and still be able to start the car, while it will still charge the rear battery.

Something like THIS

And maybe something like THIS to shutdown the system if too low of voltage
 
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Mugzy

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Another option is using class D amps. I'm using 3 of the newer gen Alpine PDX amps. I'm around 2KW and I barely drop under 14 volts when cranking bass heavy songs. The dimming is barely noticeable.
 

mebcop

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Class D is all I've run for sub amps for the last 10 years :) Do they even make AB sub amps anymore? Lol
 

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