Al Driveshaft & Heater Done;Panhard Bar, C/C Plates to Go

[95R#177]

Replacing the steel d/s with the aluminum one was very easy compared to removing the heater assembly. Yes, lowering the steering and removing the dash to get to the heater was work--about 6 hours. Removal of the coolant piping (to the heater) under the hood wasn't bad, just one trip to the store for a heater bypass cap, and a 0.5" NPT/3/8" brass fitting for the temp sensor that goes into the front of the lower intake manifold.

I'll be doing the MM panhard bar, control arms and cc plates later this week. Any tips on that stuff?

 

[Cobra-R]

Your not adding a Torque arm?

Of the things you listed, installing the PHB is the hardest, only because it's a pia to drill the holes. If your going to weld it, then its easy.

Brian

 

[95R#177]

Brian,
After lengthy conversations with MM, I had to make a decision to wait till next year on the T/A. For my budget constraint, they recommended the "Rear Grip Package" plus the C/C plates.

I'm planning to weld the PHB. I think I'll just tack everything, then get a "real" welder to finish, as my beads are no where near professional quality.

I'd sure appreciate a few photos of your 95R, as I notice it's prepped for NASA, and that is the goal for my car. I'm generally interested in how you've prepped the interior, fire system used and brakes. Thanks very much for being patient with my questions.

 

[Cobra-R]

Shane,
I cannot get to my car right now to take specific pictures for you, but I will answer any question in the mean time.

The fire system I have is: Safecraft system. Not the cheapest, but what I liked about it is that the head had provisions for multiple lines to come out of it. Many systems have one line out of the head, then they split off to go to the engine, trunk, ect. If that one line gets damaged before the T's in a crash, your system is worthless. In the safecraft, if one line gets damaged, the other lines are still functional.

Mark Wilson sells safecraft, I bet he will give you a good deal on a system.

Brian

 

[b4409]

bringing this thread back from the dead. Anyone know what the heater core and associated junk weighs? Shane? My car has got to lose another 100 lbs. I could use a diet too, but that would not less fun :beer:

How bout the driveshaft replacement? Is that a standard FRPP unit?

 

[ac427cobra]

I could use a diet too,

Stomach staple! I heard it works! ;-)oke:

 

[Cobra-R]

How bout the driveshaft replacement? Is that a standard FRPP unit?

Yes and no.

The FRPP driveshaft is shorter than our stock driveshaft... If you have your engine set back via MM or Griggs K-members, you can change the driveshaft with a change of the front hub due to the spline differences.

If you don't have the engine set back, you will need a spacer between the driveshaft and the pinion on the rear axle............... or a custom driveshaft.

Brian

 

[b4409]

Stomach staple! I heard it works! ;-)oke:

Really? I did not know you had that done.

 

[b4409]

Yes and no.

The FRPP driveshaft is shorter than our stock driveshaft... If you have your engine set back via MM or Griggs K-members, you can change the driveshaft with a change of the front hub due to the spline differences.

If you don't have the engine set back, you will need a spacer between the driveshaft and the pinion on the rear axle............... or a custom driveshaft.

Brian

Thanks Brian.

I have MM k member. What's the front hub change required?

 

[Cobra-R]

Thanks Brian.

I have MM k member. What's the front hub change required?

I forget the spline count, but the yoke(hub) that goes into the transmission is different on the FRPP unit. You can either remove the yoke with your old driveshaft or buy a new yoke and just replace it. It is no big deal.

Brian

 

[Cobra R Man]

I forget the spline count, but the yoke(hub) that goes into the transmission is different on the FRPP unit. You can either remove the yoke with your old driveshaft or buy a new yoke and just replace it. It is no big deal.

Brian

Brian,

I thought the FRPP driveshafts had the same trans. yoke splines as all Mustangs through '95 (28spline).

 

[Cobra-R]

Brian,

I thought the FRPP driveshafts had the same trans. yoke splines as all Mustangs through '95 (28spline).

Hmm, now that you mention it, I bet I added my FRPP driveshaft after I replaced the crappy 3550 trans with a TKO.

Thanks Gene.

The length issue still holds.

Brian

 

[Cobra R Man]

.

Thanks Gene.

The length issue still holds.

Brian[/QUOTE]


I agree.

 

[95R#177]

bringing this thread back from the dead. Anyone know what the heater core and associated junk weighs? Shane? My car has got to lose another 100 lbs. I could use a diet too, but that would not less fun :beer:

How bout the driveshaft replacement? Is that a standard FRPP unit?

Bruce,
The heater and plumbing weighs about 45 lbs. Removing the plumbing helps clean-up the engine compartment on the 95R too.

 

[Philcsag1]

Driveshaft

The stock 3550 use the same slip yoke as a T5

The TKO 600 uses the same slip yoke as a 96 to 98 T 45

The 95 R drive shaft is 5/8 inch longer then the stock 94/95 drive shaft.

The part numbers for the FRPP units are as follows

M-4602-G Fits 1979-95 Mustang/Capri 5.0L vehicles with T-5/SROD/C-4/A0D, 1979-93 with Tremec transmissions and 7.5" or 8.8" axles. 28 spline yoke

M-4602-J Fits 1996-04 Mustang and 1996-98 Cobra 4.6L with manual transmission. 31 spline yoke

# 1330 U-joints 45.5" long (CL to CL of U-joints)

 

[tomshep]

So, if you are running the stock 3550 trans get the 95 aluminum driveshaft for the 28 spline output.

If you have upgraded to a TKO trans get the 96-98 shaft so you get the correct 31 spline yoke.

Steeda sells a spacer to fit between the FMS aluminum shaft and the rear pinion flange if you are leaving the trans in the stock location. I believe they offer it under their "hardcore" parts section.

Tom

 

[b4409]

Brian,

I thought the FRPP driveshafts had the same trans. yoke splines as all Mustangs through '95 (28spline).

Hmm, now that you mention it, I bet I added my FRPP driveshaft after I replaced the crappy 3550 trans with a TKO.

Thanks Gene.

The length issue still holds.

Brian

Looking at the car, it appears the engine is already moved back with the MM kmember. The trans is all the way back in the slotted holes, or, maybe they came that way?

I understand the FRPP shaft is shorter or longer than stock. If it's shorter, maybe it works just fine without a spacer since I can move my engine back another 1" to the rear mounting holes on the MM kmember.

First I've heard of 3550 issues. It has to be much better than a T5, and there are a bunch of those that survive (for awhile) in AI.

Bruce,
The heater and plumbing weighs about 45 lbs. Removing the plumbing helps clean-up the engine compartment on the 95R too.

Damn That's got to go! I was afraid of gutting it with the cage installation as I wanted to cut it up myself. Since then, I've had the column out twice - I guess I will be doing it again :bash: I kinda like having a defroster though.

The stock 3550 use the same slip yoke as a T5

The TKO 600 uses the same slip yoke as a 96 to 98 T 45

The 95 R drive shaft is 5/8 inch longer then the stock 94/95 drive shaft.

The part numbers for the FRPP units are as follows

M-4602-G Fits 1979-95 Mustang/Capri 5.0L vehicles with T-5/SROD/C-4/A0D, 1979-93 with Tremec transmissions and 7.5" or 8.8" axles. 28 spline yoke

M-4602-J Fits 1996-04 Mustang and 1996-98 Cobra 4.6L with manual transmission. 31 spline yoke

# 1330 U-joints 45.5" long (CL to CL of U-joints)

Hmmmm. I think I have to get the tape measure out and call D&D or ?

Thanks,

Bruce

 

[Robert M]

So, if you are running the stock 3550 trans get the 95 aluminum driveshaft for the 28 spline output.

If you have upgraded to a TKO trans get the 96-98 shaft so you get the correct 31 spline yoke.

Steeda sells a spacer to fit between the FMS aluminum shaft and the rear pinion flange if you are leaving the trans in the stock location. I believe they offer it under their "hardcore" parts section.

Tom

Here is a picture of the spacer Tom has mentioned.............

Here is a comparison between a regular production 1995 Cobra 5.0L driveshaft and a 95R driveshaft. The Ford Racing 4602-G alum. driveshaft is a direct fit for the 95 and earlier Cobra's and the Steeda spacer makes up the length difference for the 95R, in the stock location.

R

 

[95R#177]

Bruce,
If it were me in your situation, I'm not sure I would proceed with heater removal in light of already having what I presume to be a weld-in cage. Also, the Steeda driveshaft spacer is a bit expensive (at least when I bought mine) for what it is, and can easily be replicated by just about any local machine shop. Considering your MM k-member, altered engine position, etc., I think I would purchase the Al driveshaft, then do a measurement before buying the spacer. Or, get enough info from Brian to replicate the set-up of his 95R, which is also full MM equipped, and I think also has the Al driveshaft.

 

[b4409]

Here is a picture of the spacer Tom has mentioned.............

Here is a comparison between a regular production 1995 Cobra 5.0L driveshaft and a 95R driveshaft. The Ford Racing 4602-G alum. driveshaft is a direct fit for the 95 and earlier Cobra's and the Steeda spacer makes up the length difference for the 95R, in the stock location.

R

There's some good tech. A picture is worth a 1000 words, especially in my world . . .

Bruce,
If it were me in your situation, I'm not sure I would proceed with heater removal in light of already having what I presume to be a weld-in cage. Also, the Steeda driveshaft spacer is a bit expensive (at least when I bought mine) for what it is, and can easily be replicated by just about any local machine shop. Considering your MM k-member, altered engine position, etc., I think I would purchase the Al driveshaft, then do a measurement before buying the spacer. Or, get enough info from Brian to replicate the set-up of his 95R, which is also full MM equipped, and I think also has the Al driveshaft.

The dash is cut to fit, but still a big pain in the arse to get out. I'm going with your advice though - it will be something I get around to doing later.

I just picked up a spare trunk lid for $50 so I can bolt on the 2000 R wing :rockon: