Any & Every Mach 1 Modification!

[black99lightnin]

Well there is the problem..youh ave a BBK. those are known for sticking.

Accufab....their latest ones are good..from what I have heard.


But, I still think they are all a waste of $$

The BBK's are an absolute joke. Couldn't get mine to idle less than 1500. Then it wanted to stick closed. Gave it away for $75 shipped and never looked back. Have a Billetflow single on the Cobra and works perfect after I adjusted the ford factory bracket that holds the cables, the cruise was too tight and was causing the car to idle around 1200.

 

[nelos04]

whats up with under drive pullies I havent heard much about them are they a bad mod???or not worth the$$$

 

[Mach1USMC]

k-member, TT's, rear seat delete, 4.10's, tko600, forged rotating assy- stroker kit, stg 3 cams, FR500 heads, longtubes, coilovers, DR's...

a lot depends on whether you are setting up for street/drag/or road racing....

(or just trade for a C6 Z06 and throw a STS TT on it:rockon: .....)

 

[ON D BIT]

LOL How much power can Al get? The link's not working for me either. And I think that I'd get Maximum Motorsports Max Grip Box setup instead of Griggs. I've heard more satisfied stories with MM. Isn't Griggs much more expensive as well?

here is there set up with a built and blown 4.6 3 valve -
Boss 330 Racing Built 4.6L 3V
VCT Delete
Ford Cobra 8-Bolt Forged Crank
Manley Pro Billet I Beam Rods
CP Pistons and Rings
Comp Cams Custom Grind Blower Cams
Manley Pro Series Valve Springs and Retainers
Boss 330 Racing Stage 3 Ported and Polished Heads
ARP Head Studs
Manley Stainless Steel Valves
ARP Main Studs
Ford Racing Black Wrinkled Valve Covers
Kenne Bell 2.8H Supercharger 18PSI (Daily) 25PSI (Track)
Kenne Bell 8-Rib Pulley Set
Ford Racing Radiator
Upgraded Heat Exchanger With Three Fans and Dual Intercooler Pumps
Battery Relocation Kit
Under Hood Ice Box
Aluminum Coolant Expansion Tank
Level 10 Built 5R55S Auto Transmission
3500 RPM Stall Torque Converter
Custom Ford 8-Bolt SFI Flexplate
ARP Pro-Series Flexplate Bolts
DiabloSport MAFia
83lb Injectors
GT500 Dual Fuel Pumps with Wire Upgrade
-8 Fuel Line
Custom Black Anodized Billet Fuel Rails
Kenne Bell GT500 Dual Boost-A-Pump
American Racing Headers Stainless Steel 1 7/8 Longtube Headers with 3" Collector and Off-Road X-Pipe
Bassani Race Series Exhaust System
S&W Race Cars Roll Cage
FRPP 4.10 Gears
Detroit Locker
3.5" Aluminum Driveshaft
CHE Driveshaft Loop
Moser 31-Spline Axles, 3” Studs
LPW Rear End Girdle
CHE Axle Brace
BMR Tubular K-Member
BMR Radiator Support with Front Sway Bar Delete
BMR A-arm Support
BMR Adjustable A-arms
BMR Control Arm Relocation Brackets
BMR Adjustable Lower "Race" Control Arms with Rod Ends
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR Panhard Bar Brace
BMR Panhard Relocation Bracket
Energy Suspension Dual Durometer Rearend Bushing
BMR Upper Control Arm Mount
BMR Adjustable Upper Control Arm with Spherical Bearing
BMR Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar
BMR HD Boxed Subframe Connectors
QA1 12-Way Adjustable Front Struts
QA1 Double Adjustable Rear Shocks
Cobra Imola S Black Composite Racing Seats
Bogart Racing 15" GT Series Wheels 15X4.5 and 15X10 with 28X10.5W M/T ET Drag Slicks

about 850 - 900 rwhp with this engine.


n/a 4 valve 4.6 probably near the 500 rwhp mark.



suspension set up is your choice. a local socal guy put chose the griggs stuff over mm and was not dissapointed. the guy name is trevor, and works for scosche audio last i heard. he is road racin on this site. here is the article - http://www.motortrend.com/features/performance/112_0404_2003_vortech_mustang_mach1/

and a former employee at griggs -

I took a lot of ribbing at work for going with the same setup I had from Hotchkis instead of the "street" kit John installed on his 98 Cobra. That car was taking posted 25mph turns at 100mph easy (that was my introduction ride along to lunch from the shop when I hired on). As impressed as I was with it, and still am, it was really rough riding. I can't speak for the MM kits though, as all I ever saw of them was their cars finishing behind ours at the races.

 

[bamaRed]

there are a few p1sc kits on M1R for sale in the fourms, go there and get one of those, its the best bang for the buck i think.

 

[black99lightnin]

whats up with under drive pullies I havent heard much about them are they a bad mod???or not worth the$$$

For some reason whether true or not, pullies cause damage to the oil pump on mach 1's. I've had pullies on many 5.0's, a 94 L, a 97 Cobra, and 01 GT none of those had catastrophic failure but this seems to be the achillies heal of the Machs?

 

[HotRodK]

^^ I just cant see the corrolation between the pullies and the oil pump on these mod motors. Can someone 'splain it to me?:??:

 

[black99lightnin]

^^ I just cant see the corrolation between the pullies and the oil pump on these mod motors. Can someone 'splain it to me?:??:

I agree, that's why I stated it the way I did. I asked this on mach1reg and was almost beaten to a bloody pulp. It does seem absurd.

 

[nelos04]

what about the steeda ones dont they develope stuff with ford im guessing that if they cause some sort problem they would know after all testing they do or atleast we think they do.

 

[03AV8R]

Its the crankshaft aftermarket pullies, balancers, piggie backs or whatever you do to the crank.. Dont touch the stock crank pully!! Do whatever you want to the rest of the pullies but leave the crankshaft pully alone!!.. Alot of aftermarket crank pullies (of all types as far as i know) are causing some type of harmonic vibration that is destroying the oil pump gear.. Its happened to alot of motors & has been known for several years now. Ive no idea where you guys have been on the subject but its been covered quite a bit.. So much so that i think everyone early on just "moved on" & forgot about it.. :coolman:

 

[03AV8R]

^^ I just cant see the corrolation between the pullies and the oil pump on these mod motors. Can someone 'splain it to me?:??:

Its a harmonic vibration that amplifies itself down thru the crankshaft & shatters the oil pump gear.. Not much more complicated than that as i re-call it from what we learned a few years ago now..

Thats why you should just keep the stock crank pully where it is & "underdrive" or remove all the others in whatever way you wish.. As far as i know there has been no other ill effects on any of the other pullies, ie: Alt., A/C, tensioner, WP, P/S & hydraboost etc.. Ive done all the others but not the Crank..