Any Hasselblad users?

[LD5050]

I inherited a 503cw a few years ago, and out of all grandad's cameras, this one is the most special. He used it more than any other, and I would love to start using it myself. And adding digital capability is the only way to do it, for me.

Looking at a used CFV39 digital back, which I can get for roughly $5k. It's the goldilocks CFV digital back, right in between the 16mp ($2k) and 50mp ($10k) versions. I'm open to other brands (Phase1, etc) but only the CFV models blend perfectly with the V body, and they also are the only back that doesn't require a sync cable.

I know I can get more megapixels for less money, but like I stated above this camera is very special to my family and is worth going the extra mile ($-wise and learning curve-wise) to put it into regular use.

Anybody here have experience coupling a digital back with a Hassy (V or H series)? I've read as much as I could find on the professional camera forums, but could use some "layman terms" advice, warnings, or words of wisdom. Thanks in advance

 

[oldmodman]

When you go shopping for the digital back be sure and check the number of exposures that it's internal memory has recorded. If it was used professionally it may have seen several hundred thousand exposures.
Don't let anyone tell you that they don't "wear out"

I worked for Hasselblad from 1975 to 1995, but left to start my own business just before the digital age. I built my own camera bodies and lenses from scratch while I was at the factory in Sweden. But I know nothing about the later products after 2000. Any questions about your older, all mechanical gear let me know.

By the way, the best way to store your camera is NOT what the factory recommends. I store all of mine with the lenses in the fired position. Always have front and rear caps on everything including the bodies. Never store the film backs with film in them. And store the body in the fired position. BUT advance the winding knob just slightly so that the mirror is not still contacting the foam around the upper ground glass frame. The mirror is held against the frame it sits in by three small pieces of foam. With the camera in it's cocked position the foam is compressed just slightly. But it's enough to allow the mirror to not be in the correct position to hold perfect focus. I generally was replacing the foam in all the cameras I worked on every ten years as a simple precaution. Look at the foam around the frame that the mirror hits when it is up. Foam a shiny gray in color = good foam. Foam a brown color (or worse, pieces of gooey foam sticking to the mirror) foam = bad.

Just be aware that storing the body and lenses in the fired position, while taking a huge load off of the shutter springs, is going to lead to some VERY EXPENSIVE repairs if you forget to wind them, even once, while trying to attach the lenses to the body. That is why the factory will NEVER say to store them fired.

 

[LD5050]

That's a ton of good advice, can't thank you enough! I might PM you in a couple of weeks after I get some professional lessons specific to the V body's operation. Thanks again :beer:

 

[VegasMichael]

I can offer no advice other than the camera you inherited from your grandfather is a fine piece. I went to the Naval Schools of Photography in the late 80s and we were trained with the Hasselblad medium format cameras. Have fun with it.

 

[capnkirk52]

I worked for Hasselblad from 1975 to 1995, but left to start my own business just before the digital age. I built my own camera bodies and lenses from scratch while I was at the factory in Sweden. But I know nothing about the later products after 2000. Any questions about your older, all mechanical gear let me know..

I never knew you had interesting stories! I was under the impression you were just an old angry fart... lol.