Any issues transplanting a 2013-2014 GT 500 engine into a 2007 GT500?

[SCGallo2]

...I've decided that a better option is to get a 5.8 shortblock from JDM and have the heads done at MHS...

For the money you will have invested, I personally would stick with only one shop to supply your long block assembly. JDM is my shop of choice for quality workmanship, and I am fortunate that they are within driving distance from my home. I am also impressed by MHS's level of knowledge and attention to detail, and I think that you would be pleased with the results from either shop. I would just be thinking about my recourse if something bad happened once the new engine was fired up.

Would you be doing your own final assembly of the engine, or would a third company be involved?

I would like the weight savings of the aluminum block if road coursing my car often, but in my street application, I would likely just bore out my iron block to a 5.8 when a rebuild is necessary, if the block is reusable.

Finally, if your engine isn't tired and worn out (burning oil), I would have no issue with installing your purchased "go fast" parts on your car and letting it eat!

 

[marsh2o]

For the money you will have invested, I personally would stick with only one shop to supply your long block assembly. JDM is my shop of choice for quality workmanship, and I am fortunate that they are within driving distance from my home. I am also impressed by MHS's level of knowledge and attention to detail, and I think that you would be pleased with the results from either shop. I would just be thinking about my recourse if something bad happened once the new engine was fired up.

Would you be doing your own final assembly of the engine, or would a third company be involved?

I would like the weight savings of the aluminum block if road coursing my car often, but in my street application, I would likely just bore out my iron block to a 5.8 when a rebuild is necessary, if the block is reusable.

Finally, if your engine isn't tired and worn out (burning oil), I would have no issue with installing your purchased "go fast" parts on your car and letting it eat!

You're probably right about sole sourcing both the shortblock and heads. If I go that route, the only additional things I plan to do are the bolt-ons (supercharger, injectors, CAI, etc.) and the installation. My understanding is that the 5.4 can't be overbored to a 5.8 unless it's sleeved -- but I may be wrong on that one. Foregoing a 5.8 and just upgrading my current 5.4 is certainly an option and, whether I go that route, will depend on how much money is left after I finish all the other upgrades. But my preference is definitely for the 5.8.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Does the 5.8 at the junkyard still have the stock rods in it?
Does the 5.8 on Ebay have the stock rods in it?
If it has stock rods why would anyone spend the time or money?

Spending upwards of $15k on something that I have not personally performed a compression check on, or have seen run, seems...._ _ _ _.

Pull your motor, send it to JDM and you can have it built for $20k +/-
1200 hp capable

 

[HKusp]

Saving 100lbs off the nose of the car is HUGE for road racing.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Saving 100lbs off the nose of the car is HUGE for road racing.

Iron or Aluminum
At 900 - 1000 hp would it matter? Just sayin

I'm trying to snicker while responding

 

[marsh2o]

Iron or Aluminum
At 900 - 1000 hp would it matter? Just sayin

I'm trying to snicker while responding

The Ebay engine does have the stock rods, but it has good compression and only 8.5K miles on it, so it seems in good shape. I don't plan on spinning the motor any more than 6500 rpm and my horsepower goal is fairly modest (700-725 rwhp), but I'll probably go with a built 5.8, just for the added piece of mind. The weight savings is the most important issue. 900-1000 hp would make the car unmanageable on an autocross course and probably on a road course as well. For that matter, 700-725 hp isn't likely to provide much of an advantage in those applications either -- that goal is more for the fun it provides on the street, which is where the car will spend most of its time.

 

[HKusp]

Iron or Aluminum
At 900 - 1000 hp would it matter? Just sayin

I'm trying to snicker while responding

In a 1/4 mile no, road course, absolutely. I added the Gen5 Whipple to my '18 GT and with all that weight from the SC and the oversized heat exchangerand fluids, it totally changed the balance of the car. If there were a way to negate that added weight over the nose, and I was in a position financially, where it wasn't going to bother me, I would do it and my car is 99.9% daily driven street car to the tune of 20k miles a year. I have, as of yet, never done an HPDE or autocross event with it, and when it's all back together, it will be 900ish whp on E70+.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

In a 1/4 mile no, road course, absolutely. I added the Gen5 Whipple to my '18 GT and with all that weight from the SC and the oversized heat exchangerand fluids, it totally changed the balance of the car. If there were a way to negate that added weight over the nose, and I was in a position financially, where it wasn't going to bother me, I would do it and my car is 99.9% daily driven street car to the tune of 20k miles a year. I have, as of yet, never done an HPDE or autocross event with it, and when it's all back together, it will be 900ish whp on E70+.

Sounds good.
I've always been into straight-lined things