any use for a seized long block?

[nooner]

My engine has siezed due to failure to refill with oil after draining for an oil change. I plan on replacing the engine with a long block with no core charge for the old block. Does anyone have a use for my original long block? What would it be worth?

 

[65fastback2+2]

this is my fav use of one

 

[crankshaft04]

dude how did you forget to refill your oil?

 

[mach1033]

this is my fav use of one

You must not be married lol. My wife would kill me if I put that in my living room :nono:

 

[cobrakidz]

ouch !!!!! I bet it sounded nasty.

 

[64comet]

dude how did you forget to refill your oil?

x2 and how long did it run with no oil? just curious.

 

[silverserpant]

Sorry to hear of your situation.

 

[QuickV8]

sorry to hear. but i seen on fnsweet that they're paying for their mistake. so thats good.

what happen to the employee that forgot to add the oil?

i use to overhear customers complaining at walmart saying the tire & lube workers didnt even change their oil. and the manager had to refund their money.

i think i do everything myself except for changing tires. i wish i had my own tire changer. i already come back with scratches on my rims. they never jack my car up in the right place and it leaves dents so i just carry my rims in a different vehicle. my girlfriend had a tire changed and they broke the air sensor off...i think they're like $100 used.

 

[65fastback2+2]

You must not be married lol. My wife would kill me if I put that in my living room :nono:

im married and she told me no...then I said I'll do what I want! still got my shortblock sitting in the garage waiting to be polished

 

[mach1033]

im married and she told me no...then i said i'll do what i want! Still got my shortblock sitting in the garage waiting to be polished :d

nice!!!!!!

 

[metaman]

The rods are probably still usable.

 

[nooner]

this is my fav use of one

Love it! I guess that tells me what my old block is worth. LOL!

dude how did you forget to refill your oil?

Took it in for an alignment, tire balance, and oil change. New guy didn't follow procedure so forgot to add oil. They have a procedure for when that happens, too. Drug test then termination. They readily accepted responsibility so I'm dealing with their insurance company to get a new engine.

ouch !!!!! I bet it sounded nasty.

It barely made a sound. It made a couple random noises and felt like it skipped a beat or two so I headed for the shoulder and it died as soon as I pushed in the clutch to downshift. I still had no idea what the problem was until I checked the oil on the dipstick.

x2 and how long did it run with no oil? just curious.

It went a couple of blocks at 45 mph and then about 4 miles at 75 mph before there was any indication of a problem. By then it was too late. Moral of the story: idiot lights are for idiots so don't be one, check your oil pressure guage after an oil change BEFORE you drive away. Its amazing how silently my engine welded itself together. By the time there was any indication of a problem it was far too late.

So now what?
1. rebuild the original engine to keep it "numbers matching"? (insurance pays 100%)
2. drop in a factory rebuilt replacement engine? (insurance should cover 100%)
3. rebuild original or replacement engine but port heads and cam it? (some cost taken out of pocket)
4. drop in MMR Street Mod 900 4V Boss 302 Longblock w/stage 3 ported heads and stage 3 Comp cams? ($4-5 grand option... will it still be a "Terminator"?)

 

[Huachipato]

Is the Aluminator an option?

 

[nooner]

Is the Aluminator an option?

Yes, the Aluminator is an option I have already evaluated and passed on. If I don't stay original or original replacement block then I'm going with the cast iron Boss 302 block. That will add about 10 lbs and 40 rwhp just with the added displacement, then add ported heads and comp cams. I would consider a tubular k-member to more than offset the added weight.

I guess what I'm trying to find out is how many people would stay as original as possible (first 3 options) or say to heck with it and install a monster motor (option 4)?

1. rebuild the original engine to keep it "numbers matching"? (insurance pays 100%)
2. drop in a factory rebuilt replacement engine? (insurance should cover 100%)
3. rebuild original or replacement engine but port heads and cam it? (some cost taken out of pocket)
4. drop in MMR Street Mod 900 4V Boss 302 Longblock w/stage 3 ported heads and stage 3 Comp cams? ($4-5 grand option... will it still be a "Terminator"?)

 

[QuickV8]

i would keep a terminator engine in it so ppl dont wonder if its a fake cobra. so my opinion is rebuild or factory replacement.

 

[Avispa]

Yes, the Aluminator is an option I have already evaluated and passed on. If I don't stay original or original replacement block then I'm going with the cast iron Boss 302 block. That will add about 10 lbs and 40 rwhp just with the added displacement, then add ported heads and comp cams. I would consider a tubular k-member to more than offset the added weight.

I guess what I'm trying to find out is how many people would stay as original as possible (first 3 options) or say to heck with it and install a monster motor (option 4)?

1. rebuild the original engine to keep it "numbers matching"? (insurance pays 100%)
2. drop in a factory rebuilt replacement engine? (insurance should cover 100%)
3. rebuild original or replacement engine but port heads and cam it? (some cost taken out of pocket)
4. drop in MMR Street Mod 900 4V Boss 302 Longblock w/stage 3 ported heads and stage 3 Comp cams? ($4-5 grand option... will it still be a "Terminator"?)

I'm stuck with a museum piece '66 corvette with matching numbers everything. I say stuck because I'd love to throw in a Merlin 540 and a five speed, but anything you do that car decreases its value. It's a garage queen and about all it's good for is a once a month drive. I'm not keen on matching numbers unless the car is going to be for show only. At least I have the Cobra for entertainment. By the time Terminators are old enough to be "classics" the technology will be so advanced that you won't want one for regular driving anyway. Sounds like heresy, but consider that a 2011 GT is just about where a 2003 Terminator is in performance and it's a much better car overall.

I'd do the MMR 302 other than the cams. With all the HP available from boost and a few extra cubic inches, running lumpy idling, stinky exhaust, too-much valve overlap cams is almost unnecessary. Comp make a great product but they flat don't care about idle quality.

Sorry to hear about your motor and good luck getting a replacement you want.

 

[B-O-B'03]

... I guess what I'm trying to find out is how many people would stay as original as possible (first 3 options) or say to heck with it and install a monster motor (option 4)?

1. rebuild the original engine to keep it "numbers matching"? (insurance pays 100%)

Is "matching numbers" true anymore, In the old days the VIN was stamped on the engine and transmission, didn't think that is still true today?

-Brian

 

[92stanglx]

Love it! I guess that tells me what my old block is worth. LOL!


Took it in for an alignment, tire balance, and oil change. New guy didn't follow procedure so forgot to add oil. They have a procedure for when that happens, too. Drug test then termination. They readily accepted responsibility so I'm dealing with their insurance company to get a new engine.


It barely made a sound. It made a couple random noises and felt like it skipped a beat or two so I headed for the shoulder and it died as soon as I pushed in the clutch to downshift. I still had no idea what the problem was until I checked the oil on the dipstick.


It went a couple of blocks at 45 mph and then about 4 miles at 75 mph before there was any indication of a problem. By then it was too late. Moral of the story: idiot lights are for idiots so don't be one, check your oil pressure guage after an oil change BEFORE you drive away. Its amazing how silently my engine welded itself together. By the time there was any indication of a problem it was far too late.

So now what?
1. rebuild the original engine to keep it "numbers matching"? (insurance pays 100%)
2. drop in a factory rebuilt replacement engine? (insurance should cover 100%)
3. rebuild original or replacement engine but port heads and cam it? (some cost taken out of pocket)
4. drop in MMR Street Mod 900 4V Boss 302 Longblock w/stage 3 ported heads and stage 3 Comp cams? ($4-5 grand option... will it still be a "Terminator"?)

Sorry to hear about your motor. At least the shop is owning up to it and making it right.

This is why I change my own oil

 

[nooner]

Sorry to hear about your motor. At least the shop is owning up to it and making it right.

This is why I change my own oil

Yeah, the SHOP is owning up to it, but its their insurance company I have to convince should pay for 100% of getting my car back on the road. I'm not agreeing to pay $2,000 "depreciation" for a rebuilt engine. I wouldn't have to rebuild the engine if they didn't destroy it. Their last request was to have my mechanic fax them a complete repair estimate. I will not settle for a penny less than that. :cuss: