ATTENTION: KILLER CHILLER USERS H/E bypass how to(switchable)

[raym5_0]

just to give an idea of pricing on this option

SS 3-way valve - ebay $62 shipped
jabsco 29gpm - ebay $157 shipped
EV1 male pigtail - Ballenger Motorsports, Inc. $12 shipped
3/4" barbed y-connector - Wakemakers.com $11 shipped

misc fittings - Menards approx $25
qty 2 - 90* 3/4" NPT to 3/4 barb plastic elbows ( inlet to pump & outlet to H/E )
qty 1 - 3/4" NPT to 3/4" NPT brass 2" long fitting for between jabsco & SS 3-way valve
qty 1 - straight 3/4" barb to 3/4" NPT brass fitting
qty 1 - 3/4" plastic barbed elbow ( to y-connector )

Hose going from 3-way valve to H/E and from H/E to y-connector, I used my original Gates IC Hose part # 19641, and cut approx in half. This hose has gradual bends for the turns needed for elimination of kinks.

so, I would ballpark this install approx $275 for all above pieces with a couple strips of tube insulation.

again, my main goal was to have hopefully a more reliable IC pump and to reduce heat soak from hot air accross the H/E warming the IC coolant.

 

[raym5_0]

results of driving car hard for approx 1/2hr, atleast 3-4 runs of WOT pushing 19psi going 1st-3rd to redline. With bypass on IAT2's stayed around 89-90*. Spiked up to around 113* after runs with Throttle closed after letting off, but quickly dropped down within a minute to 89-90* while cruising. :banana:

 

[Tractionless1]

Any chance you can do a MS Paint rendition of the flow. I can't wrap my head around how the flow control works with HE in/off line.

 

[raym5_0]

Any chance you can do a MS Paint rendition of the flow. I can't wrap my head around how the flow control works with HE in/off line.

here you go.:beer:

 

[Tractionless1]

Thanks! I thought I might have seen a backflow situation before but I follow now. Saved for later if/when I ever have to go back in there.

 

[TNTLightning]

BTW-for those of you who didn't know, this mod also works in the winter time, if you turn on your defrost. This turns on the killer chiller and cools your fluid down even more. No matter what you have your cabin temp set to, if the compressor kicks on, it is compressing r134 which can be used for cooling.

 

[TermiN8er]

for those who want to insulate their aftermarket reservoir tank.

I found some foam that will work great.

Insulation Sheet, PSA Back, 36x48x1/2 In - Pipe Insulation - Pipe and Tubing - 4VZR5 : Grainger Industrial Supply

a little pricey but you can split the price with a friend and make it like a GB! ;-)

 

[jackers]

Great write-up and results!

With the current "bypass" setup, do you have any dripping while at the track? If so, would the Killer Chiller Drag Kit work any better for this?

Any more results?

I think this is going to save me from buying a large H/E and ice reservoir for the trunk. It seems that you are getting better results while not having to buy 80 lbs of ice like the trunk reservoir guys!

 

[spyder1337]

I have the bypass but actually run it open h/e at the track and just turn the a/c on about 2 mins before I run and i've back halfed 32 mph if that's any indication of being efficient, iat2's never got over 110 on the pass and ic temps were mid 60's at the end and lower 40's to begin... hard to beat that, might have a little advantage with ice but that's only at the track and not enough for me to want to ice my shit.

 

[jackers]

I have the bypass but actually run it open h/e at the track and just turn the a/c on about 2 mins before I run and i've back halfed 32 mph if that's any indication of being efficient, iat2's never got over 110 on the pass and ic temps were mid 60's at the end and lower 40's to begin... hard to beat that, might have a little advantage with ice but that's only at the track and not enough for me to want to ice my shit.

Thanks for the update. So you don't have the "Drag Kit" then? Any dripping at the track?

 

[kustom2k1]

What are you guys using to insulate the lines to avoid water dripping onto the track?

 

[04Mach1Blurr]

The normal route for fluid for intercooler is--------Reservoir--pump--heat exchanger--intercooler--back to reservoir.
When you install killer chiller the new route is reservoir--pump--heat exchanger--killer chiller--intercooler--back to reservoir.
No matter the amount of line insulation you use, the heat exchanger becomes a cold exchanger and rids the system of cold water:dw:

Now you can shut off inlet and exit from heat exchanger and open up bypass.

New coolant flow is, Reservoir--pump--killer chiller--intercooler--back to reservoir. I insulated all hoses and lines.

Couple questions..

1. I daily drive my Mach (terminator long block with eaton), I have been looking into the killer chillers and am pretty set on getting one for the stock heat exchanger. But I've also thought about getting the KC and an AFCO HE to even better the cooling. So with the KC, is the larger HE needed and is it worth purchasing?

2. With this bypass, it just doesn't use the HE correct? Is this meant just for racing or can it be used on the street for daily driving and is it worth it instead of using the HE with the KC?

3. I wired my intercooler pump to constantly run with the ignition switched to on, accessory, or with the vehicle running, I know this also helps cooling, especially with the car off and it on accessory mode still moving the coolant. I use this at the track in between runs for cool downs. I assume that with the KC installed, would I just be able to leave the AC on with the car off and have even better cooling with the engine off, or will the AC compressor not run without the car running?

Thanks for the help guys, been researching a lot and want to further educate myself on the IC system:beer:

 

[TRBO VNM]

I just did the bypass on hurtnem's car, but I did it differently than what is in this thread. He has had the unfortunate experience for the freon to leak out 3 times now for a couple reasons, luckily for me not installer error . He did not have the HE in the system. Well, one of those times it leaked out he was not stranded, but could not enjoy the cruise he was going on because of the coolant not being cooled.

So, he wanted a way to switch between the HE or the KC. So if the freon leaks out again, he can switch the valve and then run through the HE. Since the KC isn't doing anything then, there is no reason to go through it. All I had to do is place the Wye fitting in a different location. It is placed post HE and KC and pre intercooler. So the OUTS of the HE and KC go into the Wye fitting and then from that fitting right into the intercooler.

I also positioned the valve handle on the other side so it faces the radiator instead of facing inside the bumper. This makes it very easy for him to just lay down and rotate the handle to change the flow. I should have taken some more pictures, but you can just barely see the handle when you lean under the car and look. Really in a perfect location and easy access.

The only problem is that since he is the first and I think ONLY KC setup cooling intercooler coolant AND trans fluid, he has twice as many hoses and getting the bumper on was a task in itself. I know you want the shortest routing as possibly, but we will probably redo some of the hoses at a later date and extend them to clear the fog light and "brake cooling port", but for now he can drive the car and enjoy it.

 

[TNTLightning]

Should be some more killer chiller installs this summer.

 

[04svtsnke]

here you go.:beer:

I'm still a little confused. What's the reason for the barbed y fitting? The way I'm interpreting this setup is the valve opened goes to the inlet of the h/e then outlet then KC and to intercooler. Then when it's in the closed position it goes to the y fitting to the outlet of h/e and inlet of KC?

 

[TermiN8er]

I'm still a little confused. What's the reason for the barbed y fitting? The way I'm interpreting this setup is the valve opened goes to the inlet of the h/e then outlet then KC and to intercooler. Then when it's in the closed position it goes to the y fitting to the outlet of h/e and inlet of KC?

There is only 1 coolant inlet to the KC and without the "Y" you would need 2 inputs to it. Also, the coolant fluid will flow through the KC and not go back through the HE as it has no outlet. the 3 way valve is closed to the input of the HE so it won't go that way.

I have the exact set up and I used this example. it works like a champ and Joe from Kinkaid performance is a great reference when you get stumped.

Good luck!:beer:

 

[nextime]

Thanks guys for the awesome info with pictures and part numbers.

 

[nextime]

Will this one work? 3/4? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12093489017...sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=120934890173&_rdc=1
EBay item 120934890173

 

[nextime]

You got a part number for that pump?

just to give an idea of pricing on this option

SS 3-way valve - ebay $62 shipped
jabsco 29gpm - ebay $157 shipped
EV1 male pigtail - Ballenger Motorsports, Inc. $12 shipped
3/4" barbed y-connector - Wakemakers.com $11 shipped

misc fittings - Menards approx $25
qty 2 - 90* 3/4" NPT to 3/4 barb plastic elbows ( inlet to pump & outlet to H/E )
qty 1 - 3/4" NPT to 3/4" NPT brass 2" long fitting for between jabsco & SS 3-way valve
qty 1 - straight 3/4" barb to 3/4" NPT brass fitting
qty 1 - 3/4" plastic barbed elbow ( to y-connector )

Hose going from 3-way valve to H/E and from H/E to y-connector, I used my original Gates IC Hose part # 19641, and cut approx in half. This hose has gradual bends for the turns needed for elimination of kinks.

so, I would ballpark this install approx $275 for all above pieces with a couple strips of tube insulation.

again, my main goal was to have hopefully a more reliable IC pump and to reduce heat soak from hot air accross the H/E warming the IC coolant.

 

[hawaiiancobra]

I'm still a little confused. What's the reason for the barbed y fitting? The way I'm interpreting this setup is the valve opened goes to the inlet of the h/e then outlet then KC and to intercooler. Then when it's in the closed position it goes to the y fitting to the outlet of h/e and inlet of KC?

on the barbed y the two hoses connected to the y is the kc inlet and the other is the h/e outlet, is that what i am seeing? it is actually dead heading the h/e? i've gotta do this 3 way valve for sure on mine, hardly do i turn off a/c, i do tho on cold evenings