auto or manual

Would you order a 6 speed manual or 6 speed auto?

  • manual

    Votes: 93 61.6%
  • auto

    Votes: 58 38.4%

  • Total voters
    151

OhIIICobra

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sorry but i hate people that have auto in there mustangs, it goes to show that drive isnt up to trying to lauch there car, yes auto are fast and are more constant, but i rather have my fun in a little slower manual that i can drop gears whenever i want to, thats just like the guys that buy v-6, i hate them because i think muscle cars should only be v-8

Guess you double hate me. :poke:
 

YELL03

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sorry but i hate people that have auto in there mustangs, it goes to show that drive isnt up to trying to lauch there car, yes auto are fast and are more constant, but i rather have my fun in a little slower manual that i can drop gears whenever i want to, thats just like the guys that buy v-6, i hate them because i think muscle cars should only be v-8

HATE is a pretty strong word, I went automatic due to back problems that prevent me from driving a manual very often, but to be honest, now that the automatic is faster, I probably would have went automatic anyway as I am more of a 1/4 mile racer.

im with chris on this, the new 5.0 auto smokes the manual with ease. but for road course you need a manual so i voted for a manual.

I have been thinking about going to a road course, I hope the automatic won't suck for this. Paddle shifts would have been nice for this.
I wonder if manual shifting the automatic down to 2nd or 3rd would hurt it for occasional raos course fun?

If both cars were stock the manual may take the auto at the drag strip. But with gears and stall....no dice. Once again..it isn't about who's a man, what's more fun blah blah blah. It's about the guy at the end of the track..FIRST or more consistent. Manual for the street & road course, auto for the drag strip. Unless..you just want to go be a man have fun and be 2nd consistently.

Good points!

I really would love to have BOTH!
Automatic for rush hour commutes and the 1/4 mile, manual for Sunday cruises and road courses.
 

JL-KA

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Manual based on fun factor, connection with car and this...

Manual is slower on the strip, but auto's are absolutely HORRIBLE on the track. Few things piss me off more than the car shifting mid corner. And when the car isn't shifting mid corner, it's shifting after the corner as you roll on the gas. I love waiting for the car to downshift so I can accelerate down the straight. :cuss:
 

mus99gt

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I bought auto, but I have become lazy.
I bet in years past the poll would not have been this close.

I do wish the auto had a way to select gears past 3rd. I used it all the time when I had the vette.
 

mysticsvt

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I bought auto, but I have become lazy.
I bet in years past the poll would not have been this close.

I do wish the auto had a way to select gears past 3rd. I used it all the time when I had the vette.

Go 4.10 and between a 2800-3200 stall and hold on!
 

GetBlown2k3

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I honestly think id go auto with the 5.0 based on how well they are doing at the track. Although if I was considering road race or autox then manual hands down
 

1995COBRA-R

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Go 4.10 and between a 2800-3200 stall and hold on!
You could also strip out all of the interior and make the car lighter. Why not? A 4:10 with a 3K Rpm stall converter would make the car unsuitable for the street and only comfortable on the track.

The automatic transmission and diff may make it one season after dozens of runs of heating the drag slicks and racing which will slam the transmission and drivetrain.

I guess you would also need to install a cage to be legal? :shrug:
 

mysticsvt

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You could also strip out all of the interior and make the car lighter. Why not? A 4:10 with a 3K Rpm stall converter would make the car unsuitable for the street and only comfortable on the track.

The automatic transmission and diff may make it one season after dozens of runs of heating the drag slicks and racing which will slam the transmission and drivetrain.

I guess you would also need to install a cage to be legal? :shrug:

2800-3200 is the average stall for the street/strip car....if he is gonna stay mild..I'll go 2800. I ran a 2800 with 4.10s in my daily driver running 7.5 1/8 miles. Car didn't fall on its face at all and was very streetable. When cars are running 6000 stalls I doubt 3000 is gonna make a car unsuitable..lol

Reference..
http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=78/prd78.htm

Best paragraph...
Most street performance cars running your typical "performance" cam should be running a stall converter in the 2,800 RPM area. For hotter cars (street / strip) with bigger cams, etc. then a converter in the 3,000 - 3,200 RPM is more suited. For mild performance cars with something like a 350 HP engine, a 2,400 stall is about right. The basic rule of thumb is; if your engine "comes alive" at say, 3,500 RPM, then you want a stall converter with about 3,500 of stall to it. Most people tend to over cam and over carburete their cars... and those same people tend to under stall converter their cars too, which REALLY makes it a complete turd. if they need a 3,000 RPM stall, they'll usually get something like a 2,000 RPM, which just doesn't get it off the line. You have to remember... 80% of the race is the first 100 feet. If you can't get off the line, you are going to lose the race.

So with a stock 415/390 i would say 2800-3000 is pretty good area to be in.
 
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me32

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2800-3200 is the average stall for the street/strip car....if he is gonna stay mild..I'll go 2800. I ran a 2800 with 4.10s in my daily driver running 7.5 1/8 miles. Car didn't fall on its face at all and was very streetable. When cars are running 6000 staills I doubt 3000 is gonna make a car unsuitable..lol

Reference..
What does a high stall converter do?

Best paragraph...
Most street performance cars running your typical "performance" cam should be running a stall converter in the 2,800 RPM area. For hotter cars (street / strip) with bigger cams, etc. then a converter in the 3,000 - 3,200 RPM is more suited. For mild performance cars with something like a 350 HP engine, a 2,400 stall is about right. The basic rule of thumb is; if your engine "comes alive" at say, 3,500 RPM, then you want a stall converter with about 3,500 of stall to it. Most people tend to over cam and over carburete their cars... and those same people tend to under stall converter their cars too, which REALLY makes it a complete turd. if they need a 3,000 RPM stall, they'll usually get something like a 2,000 RPM, which just doesn't get it off the line. You have to remember... 80% of the race is the first 100 feet. If you can't get off the line, you are going to lose the race.

So with a stock 415/390 i would say 2800-3000 is pretty good area to be in.

+1 on this you can get a stall up to 3k an still be very dd friendly an.410s work great there's a guy with an auto with tune an 410s only an still gets 28mpg.
 

1995COBRA-R

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2800-3200 is the average stall for the street/strip car....if he is gonna stay mild..I'll go 2800.
You must be talking about the flash stall rating. The true stall rating is lower. The converter may show a flash rating at some higher point but the true stall is the proper number to use.

Nonetheless, an automatic transmission is for someone that can't shift a manual properly. A torque converter cannot achieve 100 percent coupling efficiency like a manual can. A high stall torque converter can also cause overheating, stator clutch breakage, and ballooning (which will cause the converter housing to rupture).
 

bad360rt

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Nonetheless, an automatic transmission is for someone that can't shift a manual properly. A torque converter cannot achieve 100 percent coupling efficiency like a manual can. A high stall torque converter can also cause overheating, stator clutch breakage, and ballooning (which will cause the converter housing to rupture).

Tell that to the pros. Once you get to a certain level, you should be running an auto (or some variation of an auto trans), if you want to run consistently. And all of the problems you listed for a high stall are easily remedied by a trans cooler and buying a quality converter.

It's all about personal preference. I love shifting gears, but if I'm going to race it, then it needs an auto.
 

Silver5Oh

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9-10 second track car? Auto. Daily Driven 11-12 second street car? Manual.

I'm glad i got the M6. I went home and drove my mom's 06 GT with the A5 while i was home for thanksgiving, and i absolutley hated it. I felt bored driving when i couldnt shift gears. just my personal preference.

But when it comes down to it, it is just want you want. The Auto will ALWAYS shift faster at the track, and it wont miss. But i like the challenge of the manual, its not just point and shoot.
 

me32

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this would fall under what i called "some variation of an auto trans", same as running an auto with a full manual vb. If you're not using your left foot, you fall under the auto category, imo.

+1
 

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