Yeah I didnt want to make that mistake again. I was VERY careful and super nervous the entire time lol.
I've already stretched the budget this winter I didn't want to make a stupid mistake
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Back in a Sonic Blue... The Keeper!
- Thread starter NateDogg
- Start date
I've already stretched the budget this winter I didn't want to make a stupid mistake
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No real updates as I've been waiting on stuff to come in.
But I did score this 3.2 RR pulley and I'm pretty excited. I sold my last one with the mystichrome cobra.. glad to have another..
Best looking pulley for a whipple IMO.
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But I did score this 3.2 RR pulley and I'm pretty excited. I sold my last one with the mystichrome cobra.. glad to have another..
Best looking pulley for a whipple IMO.
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Last piece to the puzzle.
I now have all the parts needed. I just need to put them all together.
FIC 1000s courtesy of Lethal Performance.
Time to get busy and button this thing up. Weather is going to be nice in a couple of weeks.
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I now have all the parts needed. I just need to put them all together.
FIC 1000s courtesy of Lethal Performance.
Time to get busy and button this thing up. Weather is going to be nice in a couple of weeks.
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You should have some time in your hands with all the "social distancing" we should be doing. Looking forward to it coming together!
You're telling me. My schedule has been the same even with the quarantine in place, I work for a power company so there isn't much remote working for me.
I do have some days off next week so I'm hoping to get it off jack stands and on the ground before the weekend.
I still need to do the following.
-MM arms/rack/steering shaft/coil overs (I might wait to put the rear coil overs on for now).
-Route fuel lines
-Route wiring for fuel system
- Assemble blower/lower /rails/injectors assembly and put it on the motor.
-install wideband/aeroforce
-polish catback
-install mid pipe/catback
-fluids.
I do have some days off next week so I'm hoping to get it off jack stands and on the ground before the weekend.
I still need to do the following.
-MM arms/rack/steering shaft/coil overs (I might wait to put the rear coil overs on for now).
-Route fuel lines
-Route wiring for fuel system
- Assemble blower/lower /rails/injectors assembly and put it on the motor.
-install wideband/aeroforce
-polish catback
-install mid pipe/catback
-fluids.
MM Rear coil overs are super easy to install. I just replaced my rear shocks in 2 hours both sides. I would just get it done.
Now the fronts are different... bending that f***ing lip is a pain.
Love the RR pulley. I got one myself just need to get it polished still
2004 Cobra 2.9 Whipple
Now the fronts are different... bending that f***ing lip is a pain.
Love the RR pulley. I got one myself just need to get it polished still
2004 Cobra 2.9 Whipple
Yeah I put viking coil overs on my last one right before I sold it. It's not a bad job at all.
I'm more concerned with the amount of room I'm going to have back there with this 305/45s. Right now at stock ride hieght there is room to breath.
I'll need to roll the fenders if I drop it any lower and I dont want to waste time doing that until the car is up and running.
Here are some shots with the wheels/tires at stock height
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I see what you mean, Nate. Well, I think it looks okay except for the front. I'd probably go coil-overs and drop it a tad in the rear and a bit more in the front. JMO.
For sure. It had been a while since I saw a stock ride height cobra. I forgot how high they sit from the factory.
I have to coil overs for all for corners but I think just doing the front for now will make enough difference to make me happy.
And then once its nicer out I can get the fenders rolled and do the rear.
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I have to coil overs for all for corners but I think just doing the front for now will make enough difference to make me happy.
And then once its nicer out I can get the fenders rolled and do the rear.
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Yes I'll do then myself. I have a fender roller. I've done my previous cars and it's pretty easy to do.
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That's an easy list! JJ bro. I know you want to hook and want as much tire as possible but man I'd consider getting some 315 35s so you can get the stance you want.
And I know you said you have rolled fenders before but just in case, make sure you use some heat to help the paint from cracking
And I know you said you have rolled fenders before but just in case, make sure you use some heat to help the paint from cracking
That car is looking great. I love sonic blue.
Might be a bit too cautious....and I know you can use a mild heat gun....but wouldn't hurt to wait until the real summer heat hits to roll. I'd cry like a baby if that SB started peeling up a fender.
Might be a bit too cautious....and I know you can use a mild heat gun....but wouldn't hurt to wait until the real summer heat hits to roll. I'd cry like a baby if that SB started peeling up a fender.
This is why I was nervous to try the rolling myself. I know a heat gun can help but it's not a guarantee the paint won't crack. Anyone know about what temp to get the fender to? NateDogg, since you have done this before, any techniques/tricks you could share to help prevent paint cracking?
I just used a heat gun and slowly heated up and did a little at a time. I dont have a specific temp for you. I also didnt use a fender roller, just a heat gun and a dead blow hammer and a rubber mallet. Came out perfect
^ You're a very brave man. Haha!
NateDogg, what roller are you planning on using for that sonic blue? I'm guessing you're going to be a little more careful on that car.
I've really considered just taking these off and picking up a 315/35.. But to be honest I dont think Im going to want these welds much longer than this year. I figure I'll run the this year and then look into getting some SP500s or mach 5s if im lucky enough to find them.
I agree 100%. Much easier to keep the lips at a consistant temperature in the middle of the summer. Right now its averaging about 40-50 where I'm at now.. too hard to keep them heated up and rolling at the same time.. Maybe if I had 3 hands I could do it now. lol
I use the fender rolling tool from easton. When I rolled mine I was heating them up to about 125-130..I dont really have any reason for that number, but its hot to the touch, so i figured that was a good number.
My method in the past was like this,
Heat the lip up with a heat gun to 120ish. Use a temp gun to make sure you are staying consistent. Working in the sun, on a hot day will help tremendously. Also an extra set of hands to apply the heat and monitor it while your'e rolling makes it much easier as well.
I like to start in the middle of the fender, and just barely apply enough pressure to get the lip to bend slightly.. just to start the shape of the roll. then do another go at it with a little more and continue a little at a time. the idea is to barely bend it during each pass so its not a drastic bend that cracks the paint.
So far I'm 3 for 3 on rolling fenders with zero cracks. Heat, consistency and patience's equals success.
Making progress.
I ordered new o rings and a IC manifold gasket so in waiting for those to come in.
Tomorrow I'm working on finishing up the suspension stuff.
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I ordered new o rings and a IC manifold gasket so in waiting for those to come in.
Tomorrow I'm working on finishing up the suspension stuff.
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That's exactly what I would do if it was mine. The rear looks pretty good as it sits. Hope the suspension work goes well for you today. Good looking Whipple, too!
Did you get any pics of the hat before you installed it? Getting ready to tackle mine next week and am hoping I don't break my fuel level sender. Any tips?
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