BAP Issues

[Pock]

I installed a new tune last night and my car idled horribly and shut off. I got a DTC 1233 FPDM disabled/offline. I tried to install my old tune and it wouldn't start. I disconnected the BAP, ran the FPDM wires like stock and the car started right up...:dw: So is my BAP messed up? The car has been wired and driven for a month so this shouldn't be a wiring issue. Everything looks good. All fuses are good... :shrug: I checked all the connections on my BAP and wiring upgrade. All seemed good. Like I stated above the car was running with the FPDM wired like stock so I put the BAP back on. It ran for about 7 seconds, started to get rough and shut off. Threw an over boost, fuel error, and the FPDM disabled/offline. Put the FPDM back to stock and it runs fine no codes... I'm a little lost, how can flashing a new tune in five minutes after I get home cause this or did this just happen to happen at that second?

I have the LFP wiring upgrade, the fuses are good, the inertia switch is bypasses, the BAP is pre-FPDM.

Any advice?

 

[ttk53]

My car did this One time it wouldnt even start. I think the problem was that my power wire was loose at the battery connection. It has never done it since that on time.

 

[Pock]

Well my problem was with my BAP 40A fuse. Nothing looked wrong with the entire set-up. I got the meter out and started checking wires, then even though all of my fuses LOOKED good I decded to check the termnals as well. When I checked across the inline fuse under my hood the meter showed open. I checked it with a different meter to be sure and went to the parts store. They said the BUSS inline fuses have a tendacy to go bad do to vibration and you can't pysically see the seperation in the ends. Well this fixed mine. If you're running a BAP mybe you're running into a problem like this.

 

[latemodelracer2]

just think what could happen if it died while WOT

 

[Digital]

If you turn your BAP off your car will work fine till it ran out of gas at around 500-600hp. It doesnt close the circuit just doesnt do its "boosting."
If you ever have a total failure like that it is most likely never the BAP but something in your connections. (just for future reference)
Also I would never use those shit bus inline fuses they sell at discount auto part stores. Def not on my fuel system atleast.

 

[03cobra#694]

Well my problem was with my BAP 40A fuse. Nothing looked wrong with the entire set-up. I got the meter out and started checking wires, then even though all of my fuses LOOKED good I decded to check the termnals as well. When I checked across the inline fuse under my hood the meter showed open. I checked it with a different meter to be sure and went to the parts store. They said the BUSS inline fuses have a tendacy to go bad do to vibration and you can't pysically see the seperation in the ends. Well this fixed mine. If you're running a BAP mybe you're running into a problem like this.

Interesting
Hows it run with the new tune James?

 

[CobraBob]

That is good info James. It will surely help someone else with the same problem. If, of course, they use the Search feature.

 

[Pock]

If you turn your BAP off your car will work fine till it ran out of gas at around 500-600hp. It doesnt close the circuit just doesnt do its "boosting."
If you ever have a total failure like that it is most likely never the BAP but something in your connections. (just for future reference)
Also I would never use those shit bus inline fuses they sell at discount auto part stores. Def not on my fuel system atleast.

Actually that's not true. If you are wired pre-FPDM take your fuse out from the BAP power supply and tell me how long it runs. Mine did for about 7 seconds and it was clearly starved for fuel.

I'll be switching to a large blade fuse as well. Not worth risking having this happen at WOT or any other time for that matter.