BAP went out... should I go new fuel system?

TTUhouston

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I was going to go racing on friday but luckily I ran a quick datalog before and noticed that my fuel trims were way off and I was running out of fuel at 6600. After digging around I noticed my BAP was no longer boosting voltage.

I did change the plugs, regap to .026 per lund suggestions, and when I was putting it back together I blew the fuse on the battery. Didnt think much of it until after the datalog.

There is a fuse that protects the BAP that was not blown, is it possible it was blown before that? Anyone else have issues with their BAP failing? I have the vortech BAP that came with the Beefcake Paxton setup.

I am considering if I replace the BAP or go to a new fuel system (like the fore innovations dual pump setup). Just curious if this was a one off thing or if I should move to a new system (and put in E85)/
 

DarkMach1

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Sounds like good time for fuel system. Your BAP is killing you’re pump. Stop running the car hard.
 
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me32

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Did you test the BAP? Im not sure how you have the BAP hooked up. But if the BAP failed how are you getting power to the pump?
 

TTUhouston

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I checked the voltage downstream of the bap and it was 13.4v or so. It is still allowing voltage to pass through it but it is not bumping it up to the 17.5 to 18v it is supposed to. I talked with vortech tech support friday and he said there is a thermal fuse inside the bap that can trip. I didnt dig further but the pump still works.

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me32

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I checked the voltage downstream of the bap and it was 13.4v or so. It is still allowing voltage to pass through it but it is not bumping it up to the 17.5 to 18v it is supposed to. I talked with vortech tech support friday and he said there is a thermal fuse inside the bap that can trip. I didnt dig further but the pump still works.

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Ok good to know. So is there a way to fix it?
 

SVTdreamin04

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Sounds like your pump is shot for sure. It’s drawing high amps causing the thermal fuse/overload to trip on your boost a pump. Best way to tell, would be to do an amp reading on the fuel pump.


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TTUhouston

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Sounds like your pump is shot for sure. It’s drawing high amps causing the thermal fuse/overload to trip on your boost a pump. Best way to tell, would be to do an amp reading on the fuel pump.


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Interesting idea that I did not consider. You think the fuel pump itself. An amp reading on the fuel pump would have to be while running right? How do I access the fuel pump while running? Sorry didnt think anything other than BAP until you said that.

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SVTdreamin04

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Yes, amp readings have to be done while running. You just need access to the leads going to the pump. Since it sounds like your BAP is doing as it should, then your pump is probably drawing higher current, which creates more heat, which in turn would trip the thermal fuse on your BAP.




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SVTdreamin04

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If you can gain access to a DC clamp style meter, this would be the easiest way. Most multimeters that do current checks are only rated for about 10 amps since you are running the circuit thru the multimeter.



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SVTdreamin04

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Anyone know how many amps the stock pump should pull?

Really, all you need to know is what the BAP is rated for. If the pump is drawing over what the BAP trips at, then you know the pump is bad. The pump will need to be ran up to max voltage and allowed to get warm as well to accurately do this test.


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TTUhouston

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ordered a clamp meter to test the amps on the fuel pump. Will be a few days before I see results. thanks for the help so far.
 

SVTdreamin04

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Good deal, then you may be able to replace the thermal fuse on the BAP and figure out if the pump caused the failure. Good solid electrical troubleshooting will save you money in the long run.


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TTUhouston

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Vortech told me the internal trip could not be reset. My confusion is that usually a fuse disconnects the circuit when tripped, not locks open. I guess the fuse allows it to run through bap instead of boosting?

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