Battery question

[01yellercobra]

I bought my CTEK back in 2007. My 01 had a drain that would kill a battery in 3 days. At the time I was underway a lot so I didn't have time to fix it although I had an idea of what it was. The CTEK managed to keep the battery charged even with that drain. The issue was an iPod adapter that never turned off. Once I got rid of it the drain went away.

Not everyone can pull the cable. Some of us have to keep everything hooked up so the drive cycle doesn't reset for smog.

 

[Goose17]

Not everyone can pull the cable. Some of us have to keep everything hooked up so the drive cycle doesn't reset for smog.

I was not aware pulling your battery reset your drive cycles. I have to get my cars inspected (TX). I have never had an issue with battery swaps, replacements or it being dead. The only time I’ve had a drive cycle issue is when I cleared codes. All monitors get reset and you have to do a laundry list of events (drive cycle) to get everything ready for inspection again. You also don’t dump your tune with a dead battery. The computer has memory.

 

[52merc]

I'm currently running an Optima Red Top in my 01. It was in my Sport Trac for years before I sold it and transferred the Red Top to the Cobra. Two years ago, in some really cold weather, even with the NOCO attached in maintenance mode, the battery froze solid - 0 Volts output. Pulled the battery out and let it flaw in the garage (the car was outside in the driveway). Connected a good fully charged battery to the Red Top (as Optima says you should) and recharged it using my NOCO G7200 on AGM mode. I'm still using the same Red Top today with no issues.

 

[01yellercobra]

I was not aware pulling your battery reset your drive cycles. I have to get my cars inspected (TX). I have never had an issue with battery swaps, replacements or it being dead. The only time I’ve had a drive cycle issue is when I cleared codes. All monitors get reset and you have to do a laundry list of events (drive cycle) to get everything ready for inspection again. You also don’t dump your tune with a dead battery. The computer has memory.

One of the reasons the drive cycle was implemented was for the people that would pull the battery cables right before getting the car smogged. I don't know how the inspections work, but here you can have a certain number of monitors not set. At least it used to be that way. So chances are that between when you reconnected the battery and drove to the shop enough monitors set to pass. I did that once with my 01. Started from scratch and did a 30-40 mile loop and passed at the referee station. I don't think anyone was assuming the computer loses the tune when the battery is pulled.

I'm currently running an Optima Red Top in my 01. It was in my Sport Trac for years before I sold it and transferred the Red Top to the Cobra. Two years ago, in some really cold weather, even with the NOCO attached in maintenance mode, the battery froze solid - 0 Volts output. Pulled the battery out and let it flaw in the garage (the car was outside in the driveway). Connected a good fully charged battery to the Red Top (as Optima says you should) and recharged it using my NOCO G7200 on AGM mode. I'm still using the same Red Top today with no issues.

The older red tops are good. I had one that went from my 70, to my 98, to our Mountaineer. It was well over 10 years old. I let it go with the SUV because it was starting to crank slower. But that battery sat in the shelf for six months. I came home and put it in my car and the car started with no problems. But the newer units suck. The last one I had was a yellow top back in 2007-08. It lasted less than a year. I've been running Duralast since.

 

[03cobra#694]

Trickle charger here too, and also like the auto zone batteries.

 

[testorossa1989]

Trickle charger here too, and also like the auto zone batteries.

Meh. I got a bad AGM from them for my truck, never again. Believe it or not Walmart has some awesome batteries.

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[03cobra#694]

Meh. I got a bad AGM from them for my truck, never again. Believe it or not Walmart has some awesome batteries.

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My new truck has one, and it’s my first experience with them. I do buy my tractor battery from Walmart though. Everlast, last one went 3.5 years. Pretty good IMO.

 

[testorossa1989]

My new truck has one, and it’s my first experience with them. I do buy my tractor battery from Walmart though. Everlast, last one went 3.5 years. Pretty good IMO.

I used AGM after the merc I had and while they are great.... They are the least forgiving when it comes to charging. I stick to a ole trusted acid battery. Interstate is my go-to. I already killed a red top. I use a F350 acid battery in my cobra. It doesn't really fit but oh well. Tight is tight

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[03cobra#694]

I used AGM after the merc I had and while they are great.... They are the least forgiving when it comes to charging. I stick to a ole trusted acid battery. Interstate is my go-to. I already killed a red top. I use a F350 acid battery in my cobra. It doesn't really fit but oh well. Tight is tight

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Eh, I had interstates in my old 150 and the wife’s escape that only lasted 2 years vs the 3 plus I get with the duralast. The heat kills batteries here, and 3 years is the normal time frame. No warning either, they just shit the bed.

 

[testorossa1989]

Eh, I had interstates in my old 150 and the wife’s escape that only lasted 2 years vs the 3 plus I get with the duralast. The heat kills batteries here, and 3 years is the normal time frame. No warning either, they just shit the bed.

Weird. I had fairly good luck with any flood battery. The AGMs are just problematic imo

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[roy_1031]

Weird. I had fairly good luck with any flood battery. The AGMs are just problematic imo

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What’s a flood battery?


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[testorossa1989]

What’s a flood battery?


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Your traditional acid battery. There's fld, AGM (glass mats), and gels (ancient pre 50s relics). The AGM is a high cc amp battery but they are no mercy for charging even with correct charging. What to take from this is, stick to your cheapy cheap batteries.

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[52merc]

Johnson Controls, the maker of Optima batteries, has two plants, one in the USA, and one in Mexico. You want to stay away from the Mexican made units. They had quality control issues there for awhile and who knows if that is fixed yet.

I think heat kills batteries faster than anything. I've never had a factory battery that didn't last at least 7 years. BTW, CCA is real important around here. There is nothing worse than a weak battery not cranking it over when its -30 outside.

 

[testorossa1989]

Johnson Controls, the maker of Optima batteries, has two plants, one in the USA, and one in Mexico. You want to stay away from the Mexican made units. They had quality control issues there for awhile and who knows if that is fixed yet.

I think heat kills batteries faster than anything. I've never had a factory battery that didn't last at least 7 years. BTW, CCA is real important around here. There is nothing worse than a weak battery not cranking it over when its -30 outside.

Yea that's generally why people go to AGM but in the same way they charge them on flood settings which ruins the battery in that sitting. There's a lot of info here. All good info too because you'd think there's not so much to a battery but there really is. As for Optima they left a bad taste in my mouth. I didn't see the hype and of course mine didn't hold up. Sticking to normal batteries.

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[anvrsy red vert]

Well, I've been using a Battery Tender Plus since I bought my car new in September '03. When I know I won't be driving the car for a few days to a week or so I'll hook up the tender. Of course when I put the car away for the winter and until I decide to drive the car again in the late spring, I have the tender on constantly. BTW, my car sits on race ramps flat stoppers, covered, and in an unheated garage for the winter. I'm STILL on my original OEM Motorcraft battery! 15 years and still going strong!! I've always had good luck with Motorcraft batteries in my Fords