Best One Piece Drive Shaft for 2011-2012 Shelby???

BLK96NAPWER

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Hi guys,

Just wondering as my Shelby sits on storage, what is the best one piece drive shaft for our cars? Something that weighs less, does not add any noise, is stronger than stock and fits as good as stock.

Thoughts, personal experience? Also any brands I should stay away from??
 

iwannacobra5

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i'm getting ready to put a DSS (drive shaft shop) one piece aluminum ds on mine. you'll see a lot of guys running these on their high hp setups. i've seen others run dynotech, but it seems that most run DSS.
 

PRP

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Hi guys,
Just wondering as my Shelby sits on storage, what is the best one piece drive shaft for our cars? Something that weighs less, does not add any noise, is stronger than stock and fits as good as stock.

Thoughts, personal experience? Also any brands I should stay away from??


Yes, IN MY OPINION I know one brand you should consider staying away from.

I have a PST 1-pc Carbon Fiber driveshaft in my 2010 GT500 Cpe. My PST 1-pc Carbon Fiber driveshaft failed with only 585 STREET DRIVEN (with OEM F-1 STREET TIRES) miles on it. PST claimed that they had NEVER seen another one fail like mine and at first tried to say it was my fault. Steven at VMP (who did a stand up job for me) was handling the middle man aspect. When Mark from PST called me I produced another Team Shelby member who had the same exact failure as mine, at the same time (bought in the same month, installed in the same month and failed in the same month) after Mark again tried to say they had never seen another failure like mine (until I mentioned 'Denis' and his memory apparently returned).

PST just sent me a brand new one to replace the failed one but other than "the bonding agent being changed" (Says they), nothing else was done to try to keep it from happening again. I have ZERO confidence that this one will last more than a year or two. And at $1,200 that concerns me (that I will eventually have a $1200 paper weight sitting in the corner of my garage).

The Ford Motor Company 2013 GT500 CF driveshaft is a CONSIDERABLY better item than any of the aftermarket shafts. They took a totally different approach to attaching the DUAL CV joints (as opposed to SINGLE CV joints on all aftermarket CF shafts) by pressing a splined adaptor into the carbon fiber tube as opposed to gluing (or "bonding" as PST calls it) them into the shaft (See Tob's excellent inspection and write-up on the 2013 CF Shaft).

I can't speak for DSS but I can speak for PST and if I had it to do all over again, I WOULD NOT GO WITH PST and I'd go with the FoMoCo '13 GT500 shaft. There is a little more work involved but by design it will be FAR less prone to failure.


Phill
 

NightRide

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i'm getting ready to put a DSS (drive shaft shop) one piece aluminum ds on mine. you'll see a lot of guys running these on their high hp setups. i've seen others run dynotech, but it seems that most run DSS.

+1 just ordered mine during christmas but haven't got it yet. Didn't see the point in springing for the CF when it was about twice as much and both are supposed to run quiet and weigh similar.
 

54First

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I've got a "new design" DSS aluminum shaft with the rear CV joint. It's about 2 lbs heavier than a carbon fiber, but I bought it specifically because it's welded. A 500+ horsepower car seems to be a bad place for driveshaft glue (see Phill's post). As far as I can tell, the aluminum DSS has no downside.

Steve
 

VNMOUS1

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You have to ask yourself if the minimal weight difference is worth it with CF vs Aluminum.



bj
 

Tob

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:p
 

PRP

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You have to ask yourself if the minimal weight difference is worth it with CF vs Aluminum.
bj

Actually, BJ, I chose the carbon fiber shaft over a aluminum shaft because of some pics a guy posted on Team Shelby that showed a TREMENDOUS amount of damage caused to his car when his Aluminum driveshaf failed.

It pretty much wiped out the whole floor pan on his car. Without any doubt, the whole floorpan needed to be replaced. I figured the 3 to 400 dollars difference in the shaft would more than pay for itself the fist time it broke loose. Seriously, I was STUNNED to see the damage created by a hunk of aluminum swinging around under a car.

The fact is, the weight difference between the two (CF vs. AL) is so minimal (and so close to the center of rotation) that it will make little to no difference (i.e. "Trace") on a dyno. The lager diameter tube (regardless of it being carbon fiber OR aluminum) will allow it to TRANSMIT more torque so you get the benefit of transmitting more torque regardless of material used.

I used VMP when I bought mine and for a reason. Your reputation is good and I knew IF a problem happened, I'd have recourse. If I went straight to PST (I would have saved about $100) I feel I'd be sitting here holding my pud and my broken PST driveshaft right now!

Stephen did me right and I applaud him for helping me out with the situation. It took WAYYY longer than it ever should of but with no help from PST (saying their guy took a ONE MONTH vacation in the middle of it???).

I tell ya whut...IF I could trade my PST 1-pc CF DS for a aluminum DS with a CV joint on it like, Steve writes of, I'd do it in a hot New York second!

Any takers?


Phill (still uninstalled, new in box!)
 

Blackmax

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I didn't like the Dynotech because they have U-joints (cross & bearing) on both ends with a slip yoke on one end.

Has that changed?


Phill

Nope, but the Cobra Jets run 8 sec quarter miles with them. I have a lot of 10 sec passes and very hard launches with slicks for the past two years on mine. I tried to order one of the others but not only were they a couple of hundred more they wanted measurements and were already telling me it could be a problem with my power. I have no vibration at 140 m.p.h. and the sales guy was excellent to deal with.
 

BLK96NAPWER

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Lots of great information here, thank you all for posting such useful information! I am leaning towards DSS and Dynotech in the aluminum latest gen variety. What is the best OD for these?
 

rotor_powerd

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No better fit or quality than an OEM piece.... I'd wait until there is a bolt in solution for the 2013 shaft.
 

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