Best price on OEM front rotors?

[brkntrxn]

Reviving an old thread...

I received this reply from Carbotech when I asked if they could source Brembo rotors for me. I was hoping they would beat Tire Racks prices and become my one-stop shop.

Hey Kevin,

The only Brembo blanks I was able to find are made in China. Those are no different or better then the Centric rotors we already get. Brembo's made in Italy are becoming extremely hard to find. I will keep looking for you.

Any thoughts on this? Are the Brembo blanks we are getting from Tire Rack from China or Italy or is he blowing smoke?

 

[wheelhopper]

I used a set I got off of Ebay for $59 (for the set), and used them for 2 HPDE. They worked great. The only reason I am not using them now is because I switched to a different brake system.

 

[MFE]

Panoz is selling factory takeoffs for something like $60 a pair on ebay. They're identical to the Brembo's I had from the Tire Rack a couple years ago.

 

[187import]

Can somone tell me if the 2003/2004 cobra rotors are different from the 96-01 cobra front rotors?? I thought they were the same?

 

[ac427cobra]

Can somone tell me if the 2003/2004 cobra rotors are different from the 96-01 cobra front rotors?? I thought they were the same?

Although some were from different manufacturers, they are all interchangeable.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[TroyV]

They are the same.

Edit: I can't say enough good things about the last pair of Brembo blanks I got from TR. I have no idea if they are Chinese or Italian, but I have two full seasons into them. That is about 15 track days.....so....all my track miles, all my autox miles, and all of my street miles. I found that the stock Brembo Galfer pads do very little to disrupt the bed of whatever track pad I happened to be running.

When I put the Cobalt XR2's back in, it is as if they never left.

At first, I thought it was because I wasn't running hard enough for it to make a difference, but the lap times I have put down at my last two TT events suggest otherwise.

 

[svttim]

I used the Brembo blanks before I switched to the Wilwoods I have now. I always had good luck, Unless I ran the Hawk Blues, destroyed rotors. I wont use hawks anymore. It was nice being able to season them in my street car then switche them on to the racecar. Now, its a bit harder

 

[Gonz]

i picked up a set at the local NAPA a few weeks ago. Paid about $ 63 each for the "premium" made-in-CANADA rotors. That's after getting the AAA member discount. List was around $70 each.

They have "offshore" ones for cheaper, but I wouldn't feel confident on the track with those.

The original set of Brembos (that came with the Cobra brake kit) has lasted 9 track days and about 10 months on the street. They have developed some very noticeable hairline cracks & I think their time on the track is done.

 

[svttim]

I have 2 New Brembos

The original set of Brembos (that came with the Cobra brake kit) has lasted 9 track days and about 10 months on the street. They have developed some very noticeable hairline cracks & I think their time on the track is done.

Hairline cracks are normal.

I have 2 new Brembo rotors in boxes (Made in Italy) that I no longer need. I use Wilwoods. PM me with an offer, you pay actual shipping

 

[Gonz]

the cracks are a judgement call. I also had a friend who is an HPDE instructor look at them and we both agreed better to change them now than have an issue later. I'm used the many little cracks that are common throughout the rotor, but a few of them have some depth to them and are about 1mm wide by 1 inch.

Thanks for your offer, but i have brand new rotors already. Won't need another set until next year.

 

[David Hester]

some depth to them and are about 1mm wide by 1 inch

Hairline cracks are an early warning. Cracks you can feel are PAST swapping.
You just can't imagine how quickly a broken rotor or hub will lock a wheel.... just when you need it most.
wait for it..............

You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel.


Sorry Kenny.

 

[ac427cobra]

a few of them have some depth to them and are about 1mm wide by 1 inch.

I agree with David. Once a rotor cools and you drag your fingernail past the crack, if it catches and goes in, you're overdue for rotors. If your nail barely feels it going over, you're still in the 'hairline' crack stage and you're getting close.

Many times when I'm at faster high speed tracks that require more severe braking, I'm more cautious regarding this. If I'm at a smaller slower track, you can let those cracks get a little bit wider. A millimeter is sort of pushing it IMHO.

FWIW

:thumbsup::coolman::beer: