BF Goodrich g-Force COMP-2 A/S

[fletchffletch]

bump this up for some additional reviews
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/bf-goodrich-g-force-comp-2-a-s.1068540/
Posts moved by Staff. Don't revive old threads, start a new one next time.

 

[fletchffletch]

Just had a set installed on my 14 GT500. They are excellent.
285 20 rears and 275 19 fronts.
Huge upgrades from factory Goodyears

How have u liked them?


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[fletchffletch]

Has anyone tried these tires, if so, how did they perform?
Set of 4: $724.00
275/40ZR19
285/35ZR20

Snoopy49 were you able to get any feedback on these here or anywhere else? I'm considering these as part of a wheel change/mod.


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[Catmonkey]

This might help. It's a link to Tire Rack's customer surveys for high performance all-season tires. Looks like there are better choices.

On edit: Never mind, I can't get the links to work. You'll just have to go to their website and look for customer reviews.

 

[fletchffletch]

This might help. It's a link to Tire Rack's customer surveys for high performance all-season tires. Looks like there are better choices.

On edit: Never mind, I can't get the links to work. You'll just have to go to their website and look for customer reviews.

Thx. I've been looking on Tirerack. My "issue" is that these seem to be my only option in all season and the tire sizes I'm planning on, specifically the rears -- 305/53/20 on a 20x10.5 wheel.



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[Catmonkey]

Why all season? Your location indicates Atlanta. I would think you live south enough to run a summer performance tire. I've run MPSS in the winter here and it's a little like driving in the rain on cold mornings, but doable. I see Continental makes an Extreme Contact Sport that has a similar UTOG rating, although categorized as a summer tire. What offset are these wheels?

 

[fletchffletch]

Why all season? Your location indicates Atlanta. I would think you live south enough to run a summer performance tire. I've run MPSS in the winter here and it's a little like driving in the rain on cold mornings, but doable. I see Continental makes an Extreme Contact Sport that has a similar UTOG rating, although categorized as a summer tire. What offset are these wheels?

I want to drive it year round. My understanding on summer tires is at less than 50 degrees the rubber stiffens and traction can get sketchy. I don't drive it in the rain. So I'm really just concerned about cold days where it is low of 25-30 in the mornings to highs in the 50s -- which is typical Atlanta weather from Nov to March.

It would be great if I could find a non all season tire, because then it opens up a world of options.

Offsets are
+40 in front (20x9.5, planning on 285/35/20)
+50 in rear (20x10.5, planning on 305/35/20)

I don't track, drag or race. Just some spirited driving and daily driver mode.

Appreciate the help. Thx.


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[fletchffletch]

Also, From what I've read, putting a 315 on a 10.5 rim is a no-no. Otherwise, that would open up more all season options.


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[Catmonkey]

The wider the tire the more critical the offset. That's what determines the placement of the tire, so it fits properly within the wheel well. Too much or too little offset and you're making contact with the inner or outer fenders. You only have ~13.5" to work with in the rear wheel well and you have to factor in axle articulation. Many of the non-custom wheels have shallower offsets than you need to make something as wide as a 305 fit. I believe most tire manufacturers that make a 315 specify a minimum wheel width of 10.5", so to say it's a no-no, I'm not sure why that would be. Putting a 315 on 10.5" wide wheel with a 50mm offset is probably a no-no from a fitment standpoint, if that's what you mean.

With the offsets you have above, I'd look at a 275/40-19 for the front and a 295/35-20 on the rear. Done! No hassle or fitment issues. No clue as to whether either of these sizes can be had in an A/S.

I try not to drive my car in the rain, but I live in Louisiana. Surely you've driven vehicles in the rain before, and you know you can't get too aggressive with the throttle. If you don't drive your GT500 in the rain, I presume you have another vehicle. Take it when temps get below freezing. That's what I do. I can usually count the number of days it gets below freezing in a given winter on one hand, so it's not much of an issue for me. But I have taken my 800 hp car out in 30* and lived to tell the tale. It's a matter of common sense.

You've never driven your car in the winter with the Goodyears? Most summer performance tires do way better than the OEM rubber in the winter, but all tire compounds will act differently in cold temps and cold roads. Pretty sure you'd need to be just as cautious with all-seasons in 25-30* weather, but that's your choice.

Good luck on your quest.

 

[fletchffletch]

The wider the tire the more critical the offset. That's what determines the placement of the tire, so it fits properly within the wheel well. Too much or too little offset and you're making contact with the inner or outer fenders. You only have ~13.5" to work with in the rear wheel well and you have to factor in axle articulation. Many of the non-custom wheels have shallower offsets than you need to make something as wide as a 305 fit. I believe most tire manufacturers that make a 315 specify a minimum wheel width of 10.5", so to say it's a no-no, I'm not sure why that would be. Putting a 315 on 10.5" wide wheel with a 50mm offset is probably a no-no from a fitment standpoint, if that's what you mean.

With the offsets you have above, I'd look at a 275/40-19 for the front and a 295/35-20 on the rear. Done! No hassle or fitment issues. No clue as to whether either of these sizes can be had in an A/S.

I try not to drive my car in the rain, but I live in Louisiana. Surely you've driven vehicles in the rain before, and you know you can't get too aggressive with the throttle. If you don't drive your GT500 in the rain, I presume you have another vehicle. Take it when temps get below freezing. That's what I do. I can usually count the number of days it gets below freezing in a given winter on one hand, so it's not much of an issue for me. But I have taken my 800 hp car out in 30* and lived to tell the tale. It's a matter of common sense.

You've never driven your car in the winter with the Goodyears? Most summer performance tires do way better than the OEM rubber in the winter, but all tire compounds will act differently in cold temps and cold roads. Pretty sure you'd need to be just as cautious with all-seasons in 25-30* weather, but that's your choice.

Good luck on your quest.

Thx. I already have the 20x9.5 for the front so 275/40/19 won't work. Are you thinking 275/35/20 would work? Would 285/35/20 work as well, better, worse?


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[Catmonkey]

The 40mm is about 5mm short of the SVTPP wheel. I'm thinking with a 285 it's going to be pretty close to the outer fender. I think the 275/35-20 would be a better fit. I had SVTPP staggered wheels in my mind when I posted that.

Why don't you think you could put a 275/40-19 on the front? I'm running a 285/40-19 on the front now on the SVTPP wheel. They are 19x9.5, so it's every bit as wide as the rear wheels. 275/40-19 and 275/35-20 should be close to the same width and height. To test fitment, put the rear wheels on the front with a 1/4" spacer and see how close to the fender it is.

 

[Dinosgt]

The 40mm is about 5mm short of the SVTPP wheel. I'm thinking with a 285 it's going to be pretty close to the outer fender. I think the 275/35-20 would be a better fit. I had SVTPP staggered wheels in my mind when I posted that.

Why don't you think you could put a 275/40-19 on the front? I'm running a 285/40-19 on the front now on the SVTPP wheel. They are 19x9.5, so it's every bit as wide as the rear wheels. 275/40-19 and 275/35-20 should be close to the same width and height. To test fitment, put the rear wheels on the front with a 1/4" spacer and see how close to the fender it is.

Don't know if it's helpful - but to catmonkeys earlier point about the rears - I spent six months getting a custom forged set of rotiforms to 'fit' on the rear with 305/30s. I found out the hard way that all the tiremakers have different actual section and tread widths for a given 'size', and mine (MPSS cup 2s) were some of the widest, and ultimately needed a 58 offset for no rubbing issues either inside or outside the well.

This was with no removal of the bumpstop bracket or inner fender. Removing those two items allows a bit more offset if you need it.

FWIW my wheels were 11" vs your 10.5s, and they still bulge ever so slightly.

Good luck on your figment. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[fletchffletch]

The 40mm is about 5mm short of the SVTPP wheel. I'm thinking with a 285 it's going to be pretty close to the outer fender. I think the 275/35-20 would be a better fit. I had SVTPP staggered wheels in my mind when I posted that.

Why don't you think you could put a 275/40-19 on the front? I'm running a 285/40-19 on the front now on the SVTPP wheel. They are 19x9.5, so it's every bit as wide as the rear wheels. 275/40-19 and 275/35-20 should be close to the same width and height. To test fitment, put the rear wheels on the front with a 1/4" spacer and see how close to the fender it is.

A 275/35-20 is 0.3 inch greater in diameter, 0.4 inch wider and 0.4 inch less sidewall than stock 265/40-19 SVTPP front wheel (which I'm running currently) and 0.3 less in diameter, 0.4 inch less width and 0.1 less sidewall than a 285/35-20. Thoughts? I think that 275/35-20 gives me a little more wiggle room if I lower it with some Ford springs.




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[Catmonkey]

A 275/35-20 is 0.3 inch greater in diameter, 0.4 inch wider and 0.4 inch less sidewall than stock 265/40-19 SVTPP front wheel (which I'm running currently) and 0.3 less in diameter, 0.4 inch less width and 0.1 less sidewall than a 285/35-20. Thoughts? I think that 275/35-20 gives me a little more wiggle room if I lower it with some Ford springs.

The 275/35-20 would be the safe bet. Just doing a few calculations, with the wheel offset and the larger 285/35-20, the sidewall will move outboard from your existing wheel/tire by .7", but the radius will only increase .25". I'd break out a ruler and see how much closer the 285 would be to the fender lip given that .7" movement outboard. It will probably fit knowing that my current front tire is the same width, although a little taller and my offset moves the wheel/tire 4mm (.16") inboard.

Here's a pic of my car with the 285/40-19 up front. Moving the wheel/tire another 1/8" wouldn't seem to create any big issues.

 

[fletchffletch]

The 275/35-20 would be the safe bet. Just doing a few calculations, with the wheel offset and the larger 285/35-20, the sidewall will move outboard from your existing wheel/tire by .7", but the radius will only increase .25". I'd break out a ruler and see how much closer the 285 would be to the fender lip given that .7" movement outboard. It will probably fit knowing that my current front tire is the same width, although a little taller and my offset moves the wheel/tire 4mm (.16") inboard.

Here's a pic of my car with the 285/40-19 up front. Moving the wheel/tire another 1/8" wouldn't seem to create any big issues.

Catmonkey, thanks for the continued input!

I've been using this tool to compare sizes and offsets:
https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Your 0.7" movement might be off some??? Here is the comparison numbers the tool gives.

FRONT

SVTPP front 19x9.5 wheel with +44mm offset and stock 265/40-19 tire
vs.
Weld front 20x9.5 wheel with +40mm offset and 285/35-20 tire
The Weld setup would be:
0.3" closer: top of the tire to the fender well
0.24" closer: inner sidewall to the suspension and frame
0.56" further out: outer sidewall

vs.
Weld front 20x9.5 wheel with +40mm offset and 275/35-20 tire
The Weld setup would be:
0.15" closer: top of the tire to the fender well
0.04" closer: inner sidewall to the suspension and frame
0.36" further out: outer sidewall

I think definitely the 275 would fit and I'm hoping the 285 would fit (as I currently have 285/35-20 tires on my rear wheels and could just put them on the front wheels -- save $). What do you think?

REAR

SVTPP rear 20x9.5 wheel with +50mm offset and stock 285/35-20 tire
vs.
Weld rear 20x10.5 wheel with +50mm offset and 305/35-20 tire
The Weld setup would be:
0.25" closer: top of the tire to the fender well
0.4" closer: inner sidewall to the suspension and frame
0.4" further out: outer sidewall

vs.
Weld rear 20x10.5 wheel with +50mm offset and 295/35-20 tire
The Weld setup would be:
0.1" closer: top of the tire to the fender well
0.2" closer: inner sidewall to the suspension and frame
0.2" further out: outer sidewall

Thoughts?

BTW, what size rear tire are you running? And it looks like you are lowered some?

 

[Catmonkey]

I was using data from tire rack for cross sections primarily. If you understand how a stated tire size is calculated, those comparison models use that formula to make calculations. It has nothing to do with actual data. I used MPSS for my calculations and the Goodyear data from Tire Rack. MPSS have rim protectors so they tend to be a little wider in the cross section. A 285 on the front without a drop, would probably be fine. It's going to get tight if you do.

I just think the 295 would live better with the bump stop bracket. Lots of guys run wider rubber with the bump stop bracket, but I would not be comfortable doing that. Again a 305 would be tight with a drop. Depends on the tire. Best thing to do is look at the published widths and look at what rim width it's measured on. Take one-half of the increase in that measurement rim width into account with increase and decreases in you width into account for the increase or decrease in the cross section.

The tires I had on my car were 315/35-20s. My rear wheel has been widened to 11", which pushes most of the additional width inboard. They were mounted using an 8mm custom spacer. I've since gone to 325/30-20s with a 1/4 spacer, but the photo has the 315s. That tire was just too tall in my opinion. The rear is lowered ~3/4". While I have SVTPP front springs, I was using a different strut mount and the springs were mounted on Koni sports. Those two mods probably account for about 3/8" of drop.

Working on Catmonkey 4.0 at the moment.

 

[fletchffletch]

I was using data from tire rack for cross sections primarily. If you understand how a stated tire size is calculated, those comparison models use that formula to make calculations. It has nothing to do with actual data. I used MPSS for my calculations and the Goodyear data from Tire Rack. MPSS have rim protectors so they tend to be a little wider in the cross section. A 285 on the front without a drop, would probably be fine. It's going to get tight if you do.

I just think the 295 would live better with the bump stop bracket. Lots of guys run wider rubber with the bump stop bracket, but I would not be comfortable doing that. Again a 305 would be tight with a drop. Depends on the tire. Best thing to do is look at the published widths and look at what rim width it's measured on. Take one-half of the increase in that measurement rim width into account with increase and decreases in you width into account for the increase or decrease in the cross section.

The tires I had on my car were 315/35-20s. My rear wheel has been widened to 11", which pushes most of the additional width inboard. They were mounted using an 8mm custom spacer. I've since gone to 325/30-20s with a 1/4 spacer, but the photo has the 315s. That tire was just too tall in my opinion. The rear is lowered ~3/4". While I have SVTPP front springs, I was using a different strut mount and the springs were mounted on Koni sports. Those two mods probably account for about 3/8" of drop.

Working on Catmonkey 4.0 at the moment.

10-4 on working on Catmonkey 4.0!

I'm a little confused on the measurement rim width thing. For instance, I'm looking at the specs of one of the 305/35-20 tires on Tirerack. I see the following:

Meas. Rim Width: 11"
Sect. Width: 12.3"
Tread Width: 11.4"

So, if I plan to run that tire on a 10.5" rim, then I would take 1/2 of (11" - 10.5") , which would be 1/4". Now what?

 

[Catmonkey]

Reduce the section width by .25". In your example, it's going to end up being somewhere between 12-12.1" at the cross section. Tire Rack recommends adding or removing .2" to/from the section width for every .5" increase or decrease in rim width. It makes sense if you think about it. My 325/30-20 is measured at 13" wide on a 11.5" rim. It's mounted on an 11" rim and it measures 12.65". The width is roughly the same as the 315 mounted on the same rim, but the 325 has a much wider tread width. It's a function of the change in size and the tread pattern Michelin uses in the sport cup 2.

 

[fletchffletch]

Reduce the section width by .25". In your example, it's going to end up being somewhere between 12-12.1" at the cross section. Tire Rack recommends adding or removing .2" to/from the section width for every .5" increase or decrease in rim width. It makes sense if you think about it. My 325/30-20 is measured at 13" wide on a 11.5" rim. It's mounted on an 11" rim and it measures 12.65". The width is roughly the same as the 315 mounted on the same rim, but the 325 has a much wider tread width. It's a function of the change in size and the tread pattern Michelin uses in the sport cup 2.

Thanks. So, if section width/cross section decreases like in that example, does that actually mean the width of the tire is decreasing? If so, how is that happening? By mounting on a wheel with less width, are the "sides" "pulled in" to get it mounted, which "bows" the tire, thereby decreasing the width?

 

[Catmonkey]

Yes. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Seems the manufacturer always picks a wheel width for measurement purposes that is in the middle of the range of recommended widths. The width at the tread doesn't change, but as the width at the rim is pulled inward, a portion of that change impacts the cross section measurement. The cross section is always the widest measurement. That's the reason I'm not a proponent of deviating from the tire manufacturer's recommended wheel widths. A tire can be "pinched" to the point that it exceeds it's design limits. Sure it will roll, but I'm not going to trust my life with it.

That's also one reason I would choose the smaller width recommended for a given tire when you put oversized tires on the rear. With guys widening wheels, it's not always an option because you need enough width to accomplish a reasonable resulting offset. For every inch, or fraction thereof, you widen a wheel, half of that addition increases the offset.