Bizarre problems after Clutch Assist Spring Removal

[Snoopy49]

Agreed, I didn't notice the mention of the cylinder until you pointed it out. Good eye.

Husky44, did your new assembly come with the clutch master cylinder, if so did you use it or replace it with the original?

 

[1FASFKR]

Wow. I must have gotten really lucky removing my clutch assist spring in about a minute. I studied the YouTube on it pretty well and looked it over under the dash with extreme attention too

 

[Husky44]

Honestly can't remember anything about the clutch M/C, which leads me to believe I used the one that came with the assembly. I was not aware that it changed from 12-13, so I would have had no reason to do the extra work of swapping them out.

I haven't experienced any clutch issues, and the car has at least 12k miles on it since I did this, so I'm not sure it's a big issue. But, for piece of mind, it might be worth spending the extra money for a 13-14 assembly, then removing the offensive spring before install.

 

[Snoopy49]

Husky44,
Do you still have your old assembly? If so, can you check and see if it still has your old M/C attached? If you are using the 2012 M/C, do you notice any difference in the clutch engagement point?

 

[Husky44]

I tossed it before I moved. Pulled the pedal covers to use on my 67 pedals, but saw no need in keeping a broken assembly around, and quite honestly never considered that the M/C might be different.

I haven't noticed any difference in engagement, or clutch performance at all, after driving it this way for over a year.

 

[brianz426]

I need to remove my spring this weekend.

 

[LT5]

The smaller diameter m/c will require more pedal travel and less effort to reach the same disengagement point as the 13 version.

If you aren't having any issues. Great news.

 

[railroad]

I need to remove my spring this weekend.

I removed my spring without any issues, other than being 6' and weighing 250 and trying to stand on my head. Some people are good at somethings and some are not. This was one of the things I could do and there are some I cannot, not faulting anyone.
My point for replying is, if you do not want to risk disconnecting the switch and other issues, look into the spring removal procedure using needle nose vise grips to compress the spring, slide the spring seat out and then the spring. I have not done it this way, but the post was very good, done by a shop mechanic. I would advise, notching the inside edge of the visegrips jaws to hold the spring while it is compressed. I think I read where someone tried this and had some difficulty. I do not think he saw the need to for the notches or grinding the outside edge of the jaws to allow then to fit between the coils. I hope this gives you an option, without the risk of breaking any switches. You may have to search a little for the thread, it has been a while.
good luck,

 

[VFORCEJOHN]

Here's the quick 3 step way I did the removal. takes literally 45 seconds or less to get the spring out of there.

#1. Use a small screwdriver and take off the master cylinder lock clip from the pedal assembly. eyeglass screwdriver works to avoid the clip from falling down in the wires. simply insert the screwdriver into teh lock clip and move it outward. comes right off

#2. Once that clip is off which retains the mastercylinder plunger to the pedal. wiggle it to the side then simply Pull the pedal UPWARDS.

#3. The compression Spring falls out (put a rag on the floor to avoid it falling with the grease on your carpet), and you can take the plastic pieces right off with your fingers.

#4 push the pedal back down and reinstall the metal locking clip. (this can be a little tricky if youre fat fingered)

that's all it takes.

reinstall is the same way.

some of these instructions are confusing people and requiring them to be taking off way more than needed for this simple job.

 

[Snoopy49]

Here's the quick 3 step way I did the removal. takes literally 45 seconds or less to get the spring out of there.

#1. Use a small screwdriver and take off the master cylinder lock clip from the pedal assembly. eyeglass screwdriver works to avoid the clip from falling down in the wires. simply insert the screwdriver into teh lock clip and move it outward. comes right off

#2. Once that clip is off which retains the mastercylinder plunger to the pedal. wiggle it to the side then simply Pull the pedal UPWARDS.

#3. The compression Spring falls out (put a rag on the floor to avoid it falling with the grease on your carpet), and you can take the plastic pieces right off with your fingers.

#4 push the pedal back down and reinstall the metal locking clip. (this can be a little tricky if youre fat fingered)

that's all it takes.

reinstall is the same way.

some of these instructions are confusing people and requiring them to be taking off way more than needed for this simple job.

Do it this way and your going to break something, Be prepared to buy a new pedal assembly.

 

[Ghoust]

sheesh. Now I am getting nervous doing this mod myself...

 

[Hourigan218]

Just bought a small set of very pointy needle nose locking pliers and gonna try the simpler way of pliers only. Will let you all know how it goes, and im a big boy as well 6,3'' and 230 hope I fit in there hahaha.

 

[RangerDLA]

Just bought a small set of very pointy needle nose locking pliers and gonna try the simpler way of pliers only. Will let you all know how it goes, and im a big boy as well 6,3'' and 230 hope I fit in there hahaha.

I did it the simple way and it took a few minutes. I'm 6'6, 250 and while it was a small space, I had my fiancé sit in the driver seat and push the clutch in. That was really helpful. Got it out without any issues. Good luck!

 

[Live Faster]

Did mine the needle vice grip pliers way had no issues either and one of the best mods possibly done to this car. Unlike most I'm only 5'6" 150 so I had plenty of room to play in lol

 

[VFORCEJOHN]

Do it this way and your going to break something, Be prepared to buy a new pedal assembly.

can you explain how this can possibly break anything? There's nothing there to break? there's no switches in the way. you disconnect the master cylinder eyelet and the pedal moves freely upward and the spring takes all tension off it?

I'd bet I could do this whole job in 1 minuite to remove the spring and plastic.

basically only tool you need is to help remove the clip. the rest is all hands and fingers.

I'm not sure where you got the idea you could break something.

I offered this to PREVENT what we've read about doing it the "HARD WAY" like i've seen in the past posts.

 

[Husky44]

Well, since I started the thread, and I broke something (namely, the mounting bracket for the pedal assembly), allow me to answer.

Pulling the pedal upwards, without removing the switch that I broke, will put excessive pressure on the plastic tab on the pedal assembly that the switch mounts in. That excessive pressure can crack the tab, resulting in the aforementioned switch not being held securely in place. Without the switch held in place, your car isn't receiving the proper signals, and will cause your computer to do freaky stuff (see my original post).

If you didn't break the tab, consider yourself lucky. I certainly wouldn't advise others to do it your way.

FWIW, when I took my spring out, no one had posted the vise grip technique yet, and certainly hadn't published youtube videos, so I can't comment on whether or not it is a better technique (it seems to be working well for others though). Had I properly followed the technique I referenced early on in this thread (I think it was Snoops, but can't remember back that far now), I would have removed the correct switch, and I wouldn't have had to replace the pedal assembly.

 

[dotmpeg]

I'm getting ready to order the pedal assembly since I broke the clutch sensor when taking the spring out. There was mentioned about the earlier pedal assemblies not having the spring and being cheaper. They also had a smaller master cylinder. Well I priced a 2013 clutch assembly through autonation on here. He said the clutch assembly doesn't come with a new master cylinder. So just to clarify I can buy the cheaper 2012 clutch assembly and use the master cylinder that I have? I just don't want to order something and have to send it back and buy a different one. Anybody bought a clutch assembly on here? What did you guys do?

 

[dotmpeg]

Has anybody order a pedal assembly lately? Did you order one for a 13-14 or11-12. I still haven't fixed mine yet and was curious about the master cylinder on the pedal assembly coming with it or not. I was told it doesn't come with the 13-14 assembly. Not sure on the older one.

 

[dotmpeg]

I recently bought a used 13-14 clutch pedal assembly off ebay cause i cracked mine while removing spring. Once i finally got it off and replaced it i noticed yhat it wouldnt be too hard to fix. So i got some jb type stuff, cant recall the name at the moment and started fixing the crack. Well i finally have it fixed and looking almost as good as new. So if anybody on here needs a 13-14 assembly cause they broke theirs i have one. From tasca or autonation they are like 256. The 11-12 is cheaper but the master cylinder is smaller. Pm if someone wants pics or is interested in the one i fixed.