Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

Black Gold 380R

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Hello All,

I've been looking at my electronics and this includes my gauge set up. I'm currently running the Autometer American Muscle gauges in my 65. I want a couple other gauges in my set up (Tach, Fuel pressure and Wide band), but the American Muscle series doe "NOT" include any of these types of gauges.

So, I have been looking to see what I can find. I found a place called Glow Shift that had a design I really liked, but they have VERY bad reviews as far as quality. So, I decided to stick to reputable companies. Thanks to this site I remembered a lot of folks here use Speedhut. So, I went there and made my own design that I'm very happy with. However, I'm having a hard time figuring out how I want my text/logo set up.

So, I was wondering if you guys can help me out and give me your opinion?

The design is pretty much set (but if you want to come up with another design you feel would work better I would be interested in seeing it).

However, I'm requesting you guys take a look at these and let me know which way you think I should go.

Here are the three choices:

A. Text Only (The side stripe on my car and limited badging will say G.T. 427)
B. Logo Only (I have the Cobra logo embroidered on my front seats. I also have the Cobra emblem on my battery tray and subtlety in my engine bay)
C. Text and Logo (I like this, but since I have to go with 2 1/16 gauges it's really tight/small)

MY OPINION: I would love to go with "C", but I think it's too small/busy. Therefore, I think "A" is the best option of the three at this point.

Anyway, please respond with the appropriate letter. (Note: I thought about making a poll thread, but didn't want to do that just for this)

Thank you for your time and for making a suggestion/comment......

A.
Wide band GT 427.jpg



B.
Wide band Cobra.jpg



C.
Wide band logo and text.jpg




These are my American Muscle gauges (For reference/comparison).
W American Muscle.jpg
 
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kazman

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"A"
It now reads G. T . 427

You should kern the space between . and the T and the . and the 427 to read

G.T. 427

or better yet eliminate the periods altogether.
GT 427

also consider making it bold
 

Black Gold 380R

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"A"
It now reads G. T . 427

You should kern the space between . and the T and the . and the 427 to read

G.T. 427

or better yet eliminate the periods altogether.
GT 427

also consider making it bold

Thank you kazman. Really appreciate the comment.

I assure you that it may look off to you, but when I typed the text in the Speedhut text box I typed it G.T. 427. I only spaced the 427 away from anything and there are no other spaces. Also, Speedhut did not offer any bold text option. The font I picked for my numbers is automatically assigned to my desired custom text.

I placed the "dots" in there to replicate how it was back in 1965 and to replicate my side stripes. The GT without the dots is considered the modern way to display it and that is not the look I'm going for on this build.

This is what I'm trying to achieve (I may have to contact Speedhut to see if they can make the G.T. a little tighter).
20201209_190239.jpg
 

Black Gold 380R

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Hello All,

I was able to get a couple projects "worked" on, but not completed this past weekend. I'm reaching a point to where I need to install my engine in order to figure out how to run my wires, fuel line, steering, exhaust, etc. My engine builder told me my engine should be completed this week. So, hopefully I can get it in my engine bay soon.

I received my master cylinder (MC) last week, so I installed it in order to finish plumbing my brake lines.

I needed to mount my MC in order to identify where on the engine bay I needed to route my bulk head fittings. Again, I want my engine bay as sanitary as possible, so this is why I'm routing the brake lines this way.
20201212_095322_resized.jpg



Here I can see where the MC sits in relation to my hood hinge mounting location.
20201212_095336_resized.jpg



Got my bulk head fittings installed and the rear brake line mounted as well.
20201212_111447_resized.jpg



I was able to get the front brake line mounted. This one took me a little bit to figure out even though it looks simple. I experimented with a few other bends and angles, but this one seemed to be the cleanest and worked the best for me.
20201212_113848_resized.jpg



Here is the bulkhead fitting to the proportioning valve. This was actually pretty straight forward due to the shape off the panel and angle of the fitting on the proportioning valve.
20201212_125338_resized.jpg



And this is where I stopped on the brake line routing project.

Most of you should have noticed I did not finish routing the front brake line from the bulkhead fitting to the proportioning valve. Does anyone know why??????:D…..
20201212_125436_resized.jpg
 

Black Gold 380R

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On Sunday I really didn't have anything to do on the car, but I hate not working on the car. Makes me feel like I'm wasting time I could be doing something. So, I decided to continue working on my electrical panel and mounting it under my dash to check my clearance and to see if my layout was working the way I'm intending.

Here is my electrical panel mounted under the dash/cowl. Here it is just clamped in place. Looks good to me and everything fits very well. I "WAS" concerned about the fitment from the back of my glovebox and how much space there was for my radio.
20201213_120418_resized.jpg



Here you can see my relays and there is space between them and the back of my glovebox. So, this concern was overcome.
20201213_120526_resized.jpg



Here you can see there is plenty of space between my MSD box and my wiper motor mount. I also have access to my tach output and my RPM pill on my MSD box as well.
20201213_120750_resized.jpg



Here you can see there is plenty of room between my grounding block and wiper arm. Also, if you look towards the top of the picture you can see the bottom lip of my dash as it warps around towards the floor/firewall. There is "PLENTY" of room for my stereo to fit in the dash. That concern was overcome.
20201213_120809_resized.jpg




This picture just shows that I was able to complete a little more wiring. I installed my 4 gauge wire from my fuse to my starter solenoid and from my solenoid to my power distribution block.
20201213_120607_resized.jpg




It's difficult to judge the distance in this photo, but there is enough room to install my stereo if I "decide" to. Because I'm having another idea..... (Note: remember the panel is just clamped in place. That's why there is a space between the panel and square tube that it will be mounted to).
20201213_121004_resized.jpg



Here is my other idea. I'm thinking about mounting my Speedhut gauges here instead of having a stereo system (My car will be so loud you won't even be able to hear a stereo anyway. Besides, the engine sound will be music to my ears LOL).:D
20201213_160407_resized.jpg
 

01yellercobra

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What about using one of those blue tooth set ups? You can hide the module behind the dash and everything is controlled through your phone. Or whatever device you want to use. It'll allow you to use that spot for gauges and give you tunes should the mood hit you.
 

Black Gold 380R

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What about using one of those blue tooth set ups? You can hide the module behind the dash and everything is controlled through your phone. Or whatever device you want to use. It'll allow you to use that spot for gauges and give you tunes should the mood hit you.

I'll give it some thought Bob. However, I'm not much of a Tech junkie. So, I really don't use those types of devices. Even in my daily driver (2015 Challenger) I don't even have my cell phone linked up and I have the phone controls in my steering wheel LOL. I do have an IPOD hooked up to a USB port and access my tunes that way in my Challenger.

I really want to get a custom made center console by MTF. Then I could put my stereo in it's place and have the gauges installed in the front part of the center console. However, I think the cost of the center console from MTF is a bit pricey. Yeah, I know, with the amount of money I'm spending on this build it should not phase me LMAO...…;)
 

Grabber70Mach

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You're making some good progress. Nice choice on the gauges. I do have one thought/question on your brake lines from the master to the proportioning valve. I was always told that you should put a loop in the lines to prevent them from cracking over time from flex.
 

CobraBob

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Sorry to hear about your NOS drama. That sucks! But, forward you go, as always. I really like those billet aluminum hinges. Pretty cool!
 

CobraBob

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Woo Hoo. Just placed my order with Speedhut. I ordered a mini tach, fuel pressure and wide band gauges. Can't wait to receive these bad boys.....

I went with this style after all.
View attachment 1677820
When I read your question asking for advice on the three gauge face choices, I was going to pick that exact one because it matches your side stripe perfectly. Smart move!
 

Black Gold 380R

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You're making some good progress. Nice choice on the gauges. I do have one thought/question on your brake lines from the master to the proportioning valve. I was always told that you should put a loop in the lines to prevent them from cracking over time from flex.

Hello Grabber70Mach. I have always "seen" brake lines coming off the MC with some kind of loop or bend in them. So, your comment makes sense. However, I have never heard of it being a requirement in order to prevent cracking or damage. I believe you are correct, but I do not plan on driving this car on a daily basis and I do not believe there will be that much flex in that area. Also, the line is very short and, as you know, the shorter something is the more difficult it is to bend (I actually had to loosen the MC and move it to the side in order to get that line to fit in place).

As mentioned I do believe you're right as it makes sense to me. However, due to the limited use the car will see, the fact it will NOT be driven at the track and because it's a simple repair I will leave it as it is and make adjustments later, if needed.

Thank you for your comment. I really appreciate these types of comments. As I have said from the beginning I do not know everything and comments like this can save me headaches down the road because I can do something about it now or prepare to deal with it later if it becomes and issues.

After giving this some thought I "MAY" re-route the MC lines to the bulk head fittings just to be safe. Stay tuned on the next routing version of the MC to bulk head lines...:D..
 
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Black Gold 380R

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Sorry to hear about your NOS drama. That sucks! But, forward you go, as always. I really like those billet aluminum hinges. Pretty cool!

When I read your question asking for advice on the three gauge face choices, I was going to pick that exact one because it matches your side stripe perfectly. Smart move!

Thank you Bob! Yeah, I really like those hinges too. They work great and have plenty of adjustment in them.

Your vote makes the gauge choice unanimous. I was really leaning towards that one before I asked the question, but it's nice to know everyone else thinks it was the right choice as well.
 

Black Gold 380R

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Hmmmm,

No one took the bait. I posted the below picture and said.....

Most of you should have noticed I did not finish routing the front brake line from the bulkhead fitting to the proportioning valve.

Does anyone know why??????:D…..
20201212_125436_resized.jpg
 

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