Blower upgrade or longtubes

[PistolWhip]

Don't get JBA's, it's a bitch job that you don't want to do twice. JBA used to be top quality stuff, I actually have the Shelby Super Snake cat back on my car that is made by JBA, but they started out sourcing their manufactoring a few years back and ever since, the quality and fit has gone to shit. I'd suggest American Racing Headers or Kooks.
Personally I went with Kooks because they are a mid-length and are a lot easier to install. Since I was doing the install by myself and in my driveway, I figured I'd save myself a few hours of anger.

If you have a lift or a few extra hands to help, the ARH's shouldn't be that much harder to install, but I can't speak on that from personal experience.

 

[reeve_ryan]

 

[Sielmo]

Really looking for an edge here, it involves me getting walked by a ctsv. Long story short, should I go with the gen-2 blower (currently running gen-1) or longtubes, 2.4 upper, and possibly a port job? Unfortunately funds will only allow for one or the other at this time. Tks

My Stainless Works LT have always outperformed forcasted/expected gains for my mods. Pulley swap and tune for my Eaton resulted in 680 whp. Did the TVS with a 2.4 pulley, tune and did 703whp. FRPP twin 65mm TBD and 123mm JLT installed for both mods. Not a fan of their exhaust but love their headers. Also to note, the Stainless Works LT are longer than most headers.

 

[BoosteR23]

When talking about upgrading the Gen1 to a Gen2, are you talking about swapping to a Gen2 case or a new unit altogether? If funds are an issue then a new case might save you enough $$ you could a 2.4 or a lower...

 

[ZOMBEAST]

How much HP do you think you need? What are you putting down now?

 

[reeve_ryan]

Its never been on the dyno but a quick guess.... 630ish. I'm almost 99.9% sure I'm going to run the dynatech tubes with a 2.4. I will also be contacting VMP with a revised tune along with a pnp bap for insurance.
Don't get me wrong the car has impressed me for what its got done. I've gone toe to toe with vettes, FI 5.0's, a v10 Audi, etc...just need to make sure I can keep the bolt on GM guys in my rear view.

 

[C.Stanley]

Go with longtubes and a pulley, make an appointment with a reputable tuner and quit with the mail tunes. Maybe get a little more seat time would help as well. I have built a few ctsv cars, with your mods versus a bolt on ctsv wagon you should in no way be walked.

 

[reeve_ryan]

I'm good in the seat time department, My shifts were fast and on point at 6450rpm's. The wagon is; completely gutted, ice tank, pullied, zl1 lid, intake, drag setup, id1000's w/e85, heat exchanger, and tb.

Bench racing I would win all day but.....

 

[luv2spedup]

Go with longtubes and a pulley, make an appointment with a reputable tuner and quit with the mail tunes. Maybe get a little more seat time would help as well. I have built a few ctsv cars, with your mods versus a bolt on ctsv wagon you should in no way be walked.

+1 for a good tune

 

[ZOMBEAST]

I would go Gen2 case and pulley, 1 7/8 long tubes, and upgrade TB. Hopefully you have at least a 123mm intake and a dual fan heat exchanger. You're probably going to need a fuel upgrade too.

Or, stick with gen1, go with upper and lower pulley, long tubes, and upgrade TB.

Also recommend dyno session to get dialed in.

 

[reeve_ryan]

I have been extremely happy with VMP's services and tunes, wouldn't data logging have similar results to a dyno? If not, I need a tuner in south Houston.

 

[Kenneth]

Nothing wrong with a VMP Email tune. My car made 684/711 on a greedy reading local dyno with mods listed in sig. minus the VMP throttle body.
Same day my car made 60 more HP then a 2010 ZR1 with pulley,CAI,Tune.

 

[99cobraUgotbit]

I would have to agree with the majority. Long tubes and port the Gen 1

Pistol whip knows what he's talking about.

 

[reeve_ryan]

Thank you for all the helpful insight. New mods will be installed by the end of the month and I will post back with rematch results.