Bolt on GT - Need help analyzing time slips

Ivan 5.0

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First time drag racing. Good time. Anyhow, need some help analyzing the time slips. I see cars with similar mods running faster :shrug:

There was a lane without water. I used that one, and did a burn out for about 3-4 seconds. Highest I could launch was 1200RPM without spinning like crazy. I would spin in my 1-2 shift. I revved the car out to about 7600RPM in each gear.

Car is a 2011 6GM 3.55's, with AED Tune, Boss ITM, C&L Intake, SW full exhaust w/ off-road X, 1 piece DS. My koni dampers were set to full soft in the front and full stiff in the rear. Car has rear LCA's and relo brackets. Tired were Nitto Invo 275/40/18 set @ 32psi cold.

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04compgt

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Looks like the tune is spot on its picking up 25 mph in the second half. What is the car weight? That plays a big factor on your mph. Also if you get the 60 ft down you will go 11s with a set of slicks.
 

Mr. Mach-ete

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I'm no drag racing expert but I always thought the softer the rear the better the weight transfer allowing the tires to hook? Could be the track you're racing on and seat time. Others will tell you to get your 60' down as well. Much easier said than done. I suck at the track.
 

tommygun

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loosen the rear to soft, tighten the front up a little

shift sooner, 7600 is a bit much imo
 

Blazer707@TBR

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Need to get that 60ft down, a 2.0 is horrible for any amount of mods.

Also try shifting at 7500 and see if it helps or hurts.

-Thomas
 

tommygun

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because with a street tire (not dr) you want a little weight transfer to help plant the tire.

with a dr or slick you tighten it up and let the tire do its work

the stock susp will transfer weight and once you get the launch down the 60ft will drop as well as the ET.

id do 1-2 at 7200 and 2-3 at 7500 come out at 2500 and "slip" the clutch a little
 

Going for broke

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As others have said, go to full soft on your rear shocks. That is why you can't get any traction above the RPM your launching at. You want the rear of the car to squat and the front of the car to lift to help with weight transfer.
 

Ivan 5.0

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Thanks for the suspension setup tips. So 60 ft is reason why my MPH is lower than expected?
 

slow306stang

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Thanks for the suspension setup tips. So 60 ft is reason why my MPH is lower than expected?

For me...anytime ive ever had a better 60ft i've had better mph. I have about 370 timeslips for multiple cars and it holds true no matter what setup.

Don't go full soft on the rear but loosen it up. I run the Tokicos and they have 7 turns from hard to soft. When racing i go 5 turns from hard so it's on 2 for softness. You want to tighten up the front alittle because the car will be too loose and load/unload the rear tires if its bouncing.

With the 3.55s and nittos you are finishing in 4th gear or do you have to shift to fifth?
 

casper gt

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I guess everyone missed the two most important things in the first post.

1, nitto invos at 32psi.

2, lower control arms & relocation brackets.

going full soft on the rear shocks will just let the tires unload & obviously spin when the car settles down from the rise from the brackets at launch (provided the lca's are in the propper hole).

a car with relocation brackets doesn't need the crutch of front end rise to help with any traction problems.

my opinion? set both shocks to the middle & start there.

all that is for nothing though, untill the o/p puts a propper tire on the car it will never see the et's he's looking for.
 

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