GP1
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We3n92yKauM"]YouTube - e-Boost Tech Tip No.3 - Gate Pressure Setting[/nomedia]
Boost creep ?
- Thread starter TwinTurbo4vGT
- Start date
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We3n92yKauM"]YouTube - e-Boost Tech Tip No.3 - Gate Pressure Setting[/nomedia]
I was getting ready to post about the gate pressure setting. As a general rule, I will set GP 2 or 3 numbers lower than my desired boost level. So if I want 17 psi, I'll set GP to 15 and go from there. If it spikes hard, I'll lower GP. I don't mess with sensitivity. I leave it at the factory default setting of 20. The higher the boost and closer you get to the max efficiency of the turbo(s), the closer the GP should be to your target boost level.
It is "somewhat" normal to have the boost spike a psi or 2 and settle, especially if you are trying to spool hard.
EDIT: Nice vid link Shane. It just explained everything I typed, lol. Where has that been all my life?!?!?!?!?! I probably went through 2 sets of tires playing and honing the EBoost 2 on the street, lol.
It is "somewhat" normal to have the boost spike a psi or 2 and settle, especially if you are trying to spool hard.
EDIT: Nice vid link Shane. It just explained everything I typed, lol. Where has that been all my life?!?!?!?!?! I probably went through 2 sets of tires playing and honing the EBoost 2 on the street, lol.
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im going to take a look at it, im still going to change the gates position considering they are wrong to begin with and nearly impossible to get to if i had to change something on them.
I actually have mine set pretty low. Mine is set to 14#'s when i'm running 23#'s. But thats just so it doesn't hit the tires quite as hard on the street. When you look at the boost building on the dyno in time, it's really a tiny amount of spool time difference between 14#'s and 23#'s anyway.
I should try that. I've never tried setting it that low in relation to the boost I'm running. Everyone is so horny about spool time and decreasing it as much as possible. A little more gradual on the power output would definitely be beneficial on the street. I'll have to try that.
Good stuff brotha.
Do what you want, but you don't need to relocate anything.
The eboost 2 has been set up every which way from Sunday with the same issues. Maybe the OP is mixing up the data and its causing people to jump on his case or what not but here's what I was encountering.
The GP has been set from 3 (factory setting) and as high as 12psi and the results are far worse as you go higher. The sensitivity has been set at the recommended 20, to a low of 15, and as high as 25. Of course higher sensitivity made it more unstable.
The car was baselined with spring only (removed controller all together) and held 13-14psi flat as a board.
Hooked EBC back up with all settings at zero, and baselined again. About a 1psi increase which is to be expected.
Started ramping up "set" all while keeping GP @ 3 and SEN @ 20. I proceeded to tune vehicle from 13.5psi all the way to 18psi with no real issues. Even played with GP to get it to "hit" a little harder on intial spool with no real issues, small spike and would settle right in on my target boost.
Now once i started going up in "set" to get into the 20+psi range thats where the issues followed. Still with the same gp and sen setting the boost was running off. The more "set" i ran the worse it got....even with a mere GP setting of 3. Sensitivity was always kept around 20. The harder i went on setting the bigger the intial spike then it would settle, then start climbing again. It seems with running the higher intial boost and of course increased heat/velocity/volume its just isnt getting the turbo back under control.
Ive spoke with Harry & Patrick @ Precision numerous times with other combo's and they even say they dont understand why people keep mounting gates @ 90* to the flow of exhaust gas. YES, its understood that the majority of the "work" being done at the turbine is from the expansion of gasses and creation of heat, but volume of gasses also has a direct relation of slowing the turbine down. If you give the gate a path of least resistance it will function that much better, that much tighter of control. Now Im no turbine physics major etc, but i do know Harry and the crew at Precision are quite smart,and when ever Ive sent em photos of current locations of gates and what not and looking for them to spec stuff out for us, they always make the comment of getting the gate in a better orientation (there directions in there WG's even outline the correct fabbing and placement).
Another example was a single 76 Precision Billet outfitted on an original "hellion 4v" kit. We had a similar issue, all I did was refab the spot with a 45* leg leading off the "flow" direction and no other changes and was able to hold consistent boost to 27psi (from a previous creeping 23psi). The controller worked as intended in that instance too. I can only go by what I see when Im calibrating/tuning something, and make the necessary call and remedy. Its not like Im making this stuff up. Ive got better things to do than make unecessary work for myself and or the customer especially when it can be costly.
The GP has been set from 3 (factory setting) and as high as 12psi and the results are far worse as you go higher. The sensitivity has been set at the recommended 20, to a low of 15, and as high as 25. Of course higher sensitivity made it more unstable.
The car was baselined with spring only (removed controller all together) and held 13-14psi flat as a board.
Hooked EBC back up with all settings at zero, and baselined again. About a 1psi increase which is to be expected.
Started ramping up "set" all while keeping GP @ 3 and SEN @ 20. I proceeded to tune vehicle from 13.5psi all the way to 18psi with no real issues. Even played with GP to get it to "hit" a little harder on intial spool with no real issues, small spike and would settle right in on my target boost.
Now once i started going up in "set" to get into the 20+psi range thats where the issues followed. Still with the same gp and sen setting the boost was running off. The more "set" i ran the worse it got....even with a mere GP setting of 3. Sensitivity was always kept around 20. The harder i went on setting the bigger the intial spike then it would settle, then start climbing again. It seems with running the higher intial boost and of course increased heat/velocity/volume its just isnt getting the turbo back under control.
Ive spoke with Harry & Patrick @ Precision numerous times with other combo's and they even say they dont understand why people keep mounting gates @ 90* to the flow of exhaust gas. YES, its understood that the majority of the "work" being done at the turbine is from the expansion of gasses and creation of heat, but volume of gasses also has a direct relation of slowing the turbine down. If you give the gate a path of least resistance it will function that much better, that much tighter of control. Now Im no turbine physics major etc, but i do know Harry and the crew at Precision are quite smart,and when ever Ive sent em photos of current locations of gates and what not and looking for them to spec stuff out for us, they always make the comment of getting the gate in a better orientation (there directions in there WG's even outline the correct fabbing and placement).
Another example was a single 76 Precision Billet outfitted on an original "hellion 4v" kit. We had a similar issue, all I did was refab the spot with a 45* leg leading off the "flow" direction and no other changes and was able to hold consistent boost to 27psi (from a previous creeping 23psi). The controller worked as intended in that instance too. I can only go by what I see when Im calibrating/tuning something, and make the necessary call and remedy. Its not like Im making this stuff up. Ive got better things to do than make unecessary work for myself and or the customer especially when it can be costly.
The gate is bypassing more heat when your target boost is lower, so if the Gate orientation was the issue, wouldn't it be worse when you are trying to run lower boost?
i have a hp performance kit, twins 50mm turbos, eletronic boost controler, it is set to 13 psi but it always goes to 15 psi for 2 seconds before dropping to 13 psi
No one is "jumping" on op. He is only going off the info you have told him.
Seeing how it held spring only pressure flat as a board sure makes it seem as the controller is the culprit.
A few guys in this thread are running same controller. They have different kits all with 90* installed gates and don't have the "issue".
How are the vacuum lines ran?
I'm using a solenoid for each turbo.
I'm using a solenoid for each turbo.
I'm now running a solenoid for each turbo.
I'm not an expert with external WG's but it seems if there is a way to fix the gate in the open position, you could then dyno it like that (without any boost controller hooked up). If the boost still runs away, the gates location and/or the size of the gate is causing a restriction.
I'm pretty sure that's what was causing me issues running only one for 2 turbos. Kinda miss the EB2, compared to the greddy.
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