So bolts are ok for a 1" drop. Are cc plates better for racing? Any downside to just using the $20 bolts vs the $200+ platees, on a dd?
Boss front springs + 55D rear springs?
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So bolts are ok for a 1" drop. Are cc plates better for racing? Any downside to just using the $20 bolts vs the $200+ platees, on a dd?
On my opinion, yes. Also if you plan on installing stuff yourself you may have an uneasy feeling with the watts if you're like me. I installed everything correctly and loctited everything and had a bolt come loose on me twice within 5-6k miles. First time I caught it and retightened but second time it failed at an event. Nobody else seems yo have had this problem, so if could have been my error, but after that I figured a panhard setup would let me sleep better.
By racing do you mean autocross/track days? Plates are certainly much better as they allow you to adjust track setting/vs street setting very easily. Plus they take out some of the isolation built into the stock setup. Downside is some additional NVH. CC bolts are also suspect for heavy track use since they do not have the same thickness/strengh as a stock bolt. On this street this is probably a non-issue. For any sort of real road racing I doubt cc bolts are even allowed.
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Now you have me worried. What if I put a wide sticky tire on the front, will the cc bolts hold up(for street use)?
As with everything else, not all bolts are created equial. Here is the Ford camber/caster bolt kit part #.
4R3Z-3B236-AB
At $80+ it's not cheap but I would be more comfortable with these over over some JC Whitney type kit. You may also want to ask Steeda, Strano, Maximum Motorsports, etc as I'm sure they have dealt with the +/- of using cc bolts.
4R3Z-3B236-AB
At $80+ it's not cheap but I would be more comfortable with these over over some JC Whitney type kit. You may also want to ask Steeda, Strano, Maximum Motorsports, etc as I'm sure they have dealt with the +/- of using cc bolts.
They'll hold up for street use and track use. My main concern with using them is holding up in an accident or curb contact at speed. Basically, in situations that would ruin your day even with the stock bolts.
Bringing this one back for further review. Any possible updates available with this spring setup and koni's perhaps?
I have Laguna Seca shocks and front springs (137lbs), 55D rear springs, and I am just waiting for warmer weather to install a set of Boss 302 front springs that have been sitting in my garage for months. Will report back in the spring.
FWIW, I tried the front standard Boss 302/55D combo last fall. OEM Boss springs being so cheap, I decided to experiment by replacing the rear 55D springs with standard Boss 302 springs. I liked that combination -- standard Boss 302 springs all the way around, Koni Yellows -- better. Better control in the turns and over broken pavement in DD; a bit less wheel hop on launch (perf-pack bushings in the control arms). Difference in rear height after settling was approx 1/2 inch.
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What camber bolts have you used? If I switch over to front Boss springs I will be able to use camber bolts to correct alignment without switching to c/c plates for a DD? And if I switch stock dampers to Koni streets ('11-14) I should be able to use stock strut mounts (or new stock replacements)?
I've only used Eibach bolts. No problems with them even with lots of track use. With the Boss springs, you should be able to get to the Boss factory settings of about -0.9º without any added hardware. You can certainly use bolts if you want less than that. Some people putting only commuter mileage find that to be too much camber. The 11+ Koni struts will work with your stock mounts or replacements.
Mac007
New Member
I put on the Boss 302 springs with Koni Sports. The ride was much better after I replaced the stock P0 Nero tires but the rear end sat up too high so I put on the 55D springs. It didn't make a difference. Ride height the same in the rear as the Boss 302 springs. Currently (after 3 months) the rear is still 1" higher than the front. I may try to cut the 55D springs to get it to sit down 1/2"?
Not sure?
Not sure?
When I installed my P springs, I wanted -1 deg camber. The dealer doing the alignment slotted the strut on one side to get it back to 1 degree. The other side, I believe it was the passenger side was fine. That seemed to me to be a better plan than the camber bolts which may not be as strong.
please post up your opinion.
CJ
CJ
Well, I'm sore, I'm dehydrated, and I'm extremely happy with the Konis. I've only turned them up to 1 full turn all around, and that was pretty harsh over rough roads. Handled pretty solid, still some brake dive. Turned all the way down it's smooth like my mother's 2014 IS350. I'd like to add a front bar to sharpen up the turn-in. I have it at 3/4 all around. I'm going to play with it a bit more tomorrow.
Update - I turned the shocks all the way up. My god, that's stiff. However, if I lived in a place with great roads, they'd be cranked up all the time. The soft shock, stiff rebound combination is definitely something I like.
Side note: I assembled the shocks without thinking and completely forgot the dust boots and bump stops. I'm not worried about the bump stops, but I am worried about scoring the shaft and blowing the seal. I ended up getting a set of soft rubber Monroe universal strut boots, cutting them, slipping them through the spring, and securing them with zip ties.
It's ugly, but there is so much overlap that nothing will get in. The other side is much prettier. I learned from doing this side to start from the top and work down. Not bad for 21 bucks, including the zip ties. But save yourself the trouble.
Side note: I assembled the shocks without thinking and completely forgot the dust boots and bump stops. I'm not worried about the bump stops, but I am worried about scoring the shaft and blowing the seal. I ended up getting a set of soft rubber Monroe universal strut boots, cutting them, slipping them through the spring, and securing them with zip ties.
It's ugly, but there is so much overlap that nothing will get in. The other side is much prettier. I learned from doing this side to start from the top and work down. Not bad for 21 bucks, including the zip ties. But save yourself the trouble.
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So, I've driven about 300 miles since Friday night. With the shocks at 1.5 all around, I got some lively trail brake oversteer on a rough offramp. I turned them down 1/4, so I'm settled on, for daily driving, 1.5 turns in the front, 1.25 turns in the rear.
Also, I definitely want a front sway bar now. Any suggestions?
Also, I definitely want a front sway bar now. Any suggestions?
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