#$%@$%# Brake and Rotor combo too tight to get on

texas_snake

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So I am trying to finish a front brake job. 3rd on on my Cobra over the years. And the brake pad and Rotor (all new) combo is simply too tight (pushed the pistons back as much as possible 4 times and retried). I can get it on and hit with mallet to get it on all the way. But things are so tight the rotor will not budge. This just seems too tight. It worked on one side which was tight but reasonable. But this other side is just not happening.

Something must not be manufactured to spec. I would never expect this to happen. I have done about 10 different brake jobs and never ran into this. Not sure what to do. The pistons are as far back as they can be. Ugh...
 

roy_1031

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Is this OEM style brake rotors pads calipers etc? Do you have a dial caliper? Measure the rotor thickness and compare it to the side you were able get on. Are you sure the piston is pushed back all the way into the caliper?


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texas_snake

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I opened the valve to ensure things went back as much as possible. I did some measurements, rotors seem consistent. But pads might be a bit off.
 

golfer11689

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Bought pads from AutoZone last time I replaced them. Had the same problem you had. Ran to advance grabbed a different pair and everything worked fine. The AutoZone pads were thicker by the smallest amount but enough to keep it from going on


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texas_snake

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FIXED!!! Since I wanted to keep these brake pads, I went and had both the rotors turned at O'reilly (cost $30 bucks and they did it quick). Already finished the brake job. Took a little off and it was enough for things to fit reasonably and tires turn now.

Thanks for the replies. Never hit this before.
 

oldmodman

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I have had incorrectly manufactured brake pads before too.
They were just a few thousands thicker than they should have been. Just enough to keep the caliper from going back over them. I just pulled them back out, measured them, and with a big flat file removed enough material so that the thicker one matched the thinner one. I made all the pads on both caliper equal. Only took about thirty minutes. After that the brakes worked just fine.
 

cj428mach

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I would have just taken the brake pad out and hit it with a sanding block but your method works too I guess.

Do you really only have 49K on your car? if so its hard to believe you're on your 3 brake job already.
 

03cobra#694

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I would have just taken the brake pad out and hit it with a sanding block but your method works too I guess.

Do you really only have 49K on your car? if so its hard to believe you're on your 3 brake job already.
I caught that too.
 

Black Gold 380R

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I would have just taken the brake pad out and hit it with a sanding block but your method works too I guess.


I'm with you CJ. I would have sanded down the brake pads instead of taking away rotor material. But, we all do things differently. In the end it got fixed.
 

roy_1031

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I would have just taken the brake pad out and hit it with a sanding block but your method works too I guess.

Do you really only have 49K on your car? if so its hard to believe you're on your 3 brake job already.

I caught that too.


Characteristics of tailgating. Or heavy track use..


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texas_snake

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Sorry, good catch. Let me correct my statement. This is the 3rd brake job on my Cobra (owned since new). One on the back, and this is the second on the front. I am replacing Hawk pads I had ordered. Also the car has 49,600 miles on it.

Also I turned the rotors since I knew that would be precise/measured way of taking material off. Took very little off, but it made the difference.

My last front brake job I turned the original front rotors, but could not get a second brake job out of them (which is fine).
 

Huachipato

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Front pads on my car are lasting about 10K miles or less. The last set actually only lasted me 6K, but I have a set of good street tires on too that have inspired a bit more confidence out of me. Pure city driving - somewhat aggressive with AutoZone (free for life) pads...

I don't think the mileage interval is that odd.
 

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