Brakes

[KCFocusSVT]

Well, I'm at about 29k miles on my SVTF and my brakes are really starting to get mushy and that oh so wonderful squeeling sound has started. Anyone know of a good place to get upgraded brake pads and possibly some better rotors? I think my rotors are warped since it shakes a bit when I brake, so it's probably a good time to replace them. Unless of course this could be a warranty replacement? I know irotors has some replacements, but I've heard there may be others.
Thanks for any help!

 

[Primaris]

Originally posted by KCFocusSVT
Well, I'm at about 29k miles on my SVTF and my brakes are really starting to get mushy and that oh so wonderful squeeling sound has started. Anyone know of a good place to get upgraded brake pads and possibly some better rotors? I think my rotors are warped since it shakes a bit when I brake, so it's probably a good time to replace them. Unless of course this could be a warranty replacement? I know irotors has some replacements, but I've heard there may be others.
Thanks for any help!

Squealing doesn't mean anything. Check your pads for proper thickness.

The musy pedal is usually caused by air in the lines. So bleed the system.

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

If you do all your own maintainance there is a very simple way to keep an eye on your brake pad condition.

Never add fluid to your brake master cylinder, the only reason the fluid level will go down is if you have a leak or as the pads wear out.

If the fluid level is low then your pads are more than likely worn down.

If you do this you can get an idea of your pad condition by simply opening the hood and looking at the master reservoir level.

I will say that the SVTF pads are quite easy to see through the wheel but this a very good way to keep track on cars that do not have the large open spaces that SVTF wheels have.

 

[KCFocusSVT]

I really can't imagine how there would be air in the brake line. I have never removed the brakes from the car, unless they needed to remove them when I had the car lowered. They do seem pretty worn, the caliper is getting pretty close the rotor. Seems to me like less then 30k is awfully early to be replacing the brakes especially since I don't do any kind of autocross or anything. The last dealer inspection I had was only about 4,000 miles ago, shouldn't they have noticed a worn down brake pad?

 

[elliot400]

Check out tirerack.com for brakes and stuff. I'd go EBC Greenstuff for pads, front and rear. I have iRotors on my Accord and like them alot. Your choice on the rotors. I'm gonna do EBC redstuff(more agressive pad) for my SVT since she doesn't see much regular street use anymore. Good luck. E-

 

[KCFocusSVT]

iRotors has a set of 4 (2 front 2 rear) cross-drilled and slotted rotors for the SVTF on ebay for $239. I think that's probably the way to go for me. Thanks again for the help E.

 

[Primaris]

If you want Rice go with the cross drilled. If you want performance get solid rotors.

Be sure to inspect the cross drilled rotors frequently.

 

[KCFocusSVT]

What's wrong with cross-drilled rotors?

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

For what it's worth. OEM stuff would be pretty reasonable.

New Ford front rotors $64.22 ea, rears $33.79 ea list for $97.30 and $51.20 respectively.

$196.02 for all four.

Motorcraft fronts $52.10 ea, rears $37.72 ea list for $78.93 and $57.15 respectively.

$179.64 for all four.

I have 45000 on mine and no issues, I know in the Road and Track testing they gave the OEM stuff very high praise.

Also, I am the largest Ford parts distributor in the five state area and I do not even stock rotors for the SVTF which is usually an indicator that there are not a lot of problems with them.

For example I have 59 DPFE sensors in stock for Foci and i stock six Crown Victoria intake manifolds at $590.00 ea because of cracking cross over tubes.

I could have rotors in a day or so if you are interested.

 

[AZ SVT]

Originally posted by KCFocusSVT
What's wrong with cross-drilled rotors?

They are pretty much just for looks. Nothing wrong with that.

It used to be that pad material produced a lot more gasses and drilling helped the gas to escape from between the pads and rotor. Drilling also saved weight but there are better ways to do that.

A downside to drilling is the holes increase the odds of cracking in the rotors.

Slotted rotors are the best from a performance standpoint. The edges of the slots tend to keep the pads clean and not glazed. They also give water a place to go in the initial application in wet conditions (drilled does as well, but not as much).

 

[AZ SVT]

I also think the OEM rotors are good.

BTW, what is the difference (if any) between stock and Motorcraft rotors?

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

Originally posted by AZ SVT
I also think the OEM rotors are good.

BTW, what is the difference (if any) between stock and Motorcraft rotors?

So far the big difference seems to be price.

According to Ford the Motorcraft line meets all the same criteria as the Regular Ford line. The main difference is that Ford passes on the packaging and stocking costs to Motorcraft warehouses.

I installed the Motorcraft pads and rotors in my 2000 ZX3 and they seem to be as good or better than the originals, They actually seem to produce less brake dust than the old ones did.

I also installed a set on my fathers Explorer which he uses to pull an enclosed car trailer and he has had no trouble either.

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

One last thought and I am surprised I didn't remember this sooner.

I had a slight vibration in my 2000 ZX3 especially when coming off the freeway and slowing to a stop at the end of an exit ramp.

I thought for sure I needed new rotors but at that same time I also had been noticing a mild clunking sound going over bumps at low speeds.

I decided to address the clunk first which I had identified as the front sway bar end links.

Guess what, The brake vibration dissapeared along with the clunk when I replaced the links.

Seems kind of funny but that is a fact.

I replaced the links at around 40000 miles and I just did the front pads and rotors at 52000.

You might want to look at those links they are a notorious weak point on Foci of all flavors.

 

[KCFocusSVT]

Hmm, that is very interesting, because strangely enough I do hear a little bit of a clunk when I take off and going over bumps. Just seemed to start up a few months ago, thought it was my CAI bumping into something as the motor shook during acceleration. I may have to take a look at it. Thanks for the info!

 

[Primaris]

Originally posted by AZ SVT
They are pretty much just for looks. Nothing wrong with that.

It used to be that pad material produced a lot more gasses and drilling helped the gas to escape from between the pads and rotor. Drilling also saved weight but there are better ways to do that.

A downside to drilling is the holes increase the odds of cracking in the rotors.

Slotted rotors are the best from a performance standpoint. The edges of the slots tend to keep the pads clean and not glazed. They also give water a place to go in the initial application in wet conditions (drilled does as well, but not as much).

One point you didn't mention is brakes operate by generating heat. So the rotor is the heat sink. When you introduce cross drilling you are removing material from your heat sink which lowers the overall heat capacity. The cross drilling does not provide increased cooling. The cooling comes from the vanes inside of the rotor.

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

Originally posted by KCFocusSVT
Hmm, that is very interesting, because strangely enough I do hear a little bit of a clunk when I take off and going over bumps. Just seemed to start up a few months ago, thought it was my CAI bumping into something as the motor shook during acceleration. I may have to take a look at it. Thanks for the info!

If you do need those links I have them in stock.

Your cost for both links and the four nuts would be $31.28.

 

[KCFocusSVT]

How would I check to see if the front sway bar links are faulty?

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

It is kind of tough becuse they will not seem loose enough to make that much noise but,

You will have to either take off a wheel or lie under the car and simply grab onto the end link and see how easily they move.

When I replaced the ones in my 2000 they I could barely move the new ones by hand.

If you can move them freely in any direction I would replace them.

The old ones were a bugger to get out, I would recommend tightening the nuts on the old ones until they snap off rather than trying to get the nuts off.

I made the mistake of trying to unthread the old nuts on my 2000 and ended up under the car with a sawzall and a die grinder to get them off. ( thats 3 Minnesota winters for you )

You are probably in better shape because your car should have a newer design with flats on the stud to put a wrench on.

 

[svtred]

cross drilled is rice? lol if solid rotors were such good performers wouldnt brembo GT brakes come with them? oh wait i know ferraris come with them so they must be rice, oh and so does the mercedes S class. now dimpled rotors are rice i can agree with that but dont tell me that cross drilled rotors dont perform better and are less prone to warping than solid, its already been tested many times. im sick of this "rice" word too its so stupid. if someone wants a body kit on there car some idiot screams RICE. and there excuse is always the same "if it dont make it go faster why put it on" this is coming from the same people that drive 16 second cars. so to them i grab a big cup of shut the #@$% up, and cheers to you and keep drinkin your hatorade.

edited to remove name calling - moderator

 

[svtred]

LOL HAHAHA i just thought id check out Primaris's autocross page and take a look at his car. I stand corrected hes an expert on whats rice! diamond plate floor mats and chrome shorty antenna! lol go get some Led washer nozzles while your at it, and a bazooka tube that looks like a nitrous bottle! ROFLMAO thats too funny, DIAMOND PLATE! cmon man it aint a pick up truck. Instead of vacuuming do you use mothers polish on your floor mats! lol OWN3D