Actually I think that is the brembo kit that is close to that expensive.
Brakes
- Thread starter KHsonic03
- Start date
Actually I think that is the brembo kit that is close to that expensive.
No that is wrong. The brembo kit is 1100 at steeda and 1149 at partshopper...
Sorry for this late reply. Been away from the board for a week.
I have (actually HAD) the Wilwood kit on my 94 mustang for the past year and change. I was very pleased with the kit & only removed them to sell the car. I plan on putting the calipers on my '03 cobra (which I have yet to purchase). Hopefully they're the same kit & will fit! If not, off to the market they go. You've already ordered them, so here's what you have to look forward to.
Positives:
Much shorter stopping distances with no fade...Duh.
Much improved feel. I'm guessing most of this had to do with the SS lines, but linearity of brake force improved greatly as well. I just felt more "connected" to the car. If my Wilwoods don't fit the '03, I will get the Hawk pads & some SS lines.
Negatives:
Lots more brake dust. Plan on cleaning your rims every few days.
Assembled rotors were out of true. After joining the hat & rotor, check for runout. One of mine was more than .020" out and the other was around .015" out, necessitating turning of the rotors. Nowhere in the instructions did it recommend turning them after assembly. It wasn't fun getting the whole kit installed, stepping on the brakes & having it shake like a wet dog. After turning, they felt great. You can check runout by attaching a dial indicator to a mag base & sticking it to your strut. Rotate your rotor and find high and low measurements near the outer edge. I hear it should be around .002-.004". Any more & they will shudder.
The pads occasionally squeaked a little. I don't know what compound pads I got since mine was a pre-production kit (I actually had to buy a couple fittings to adapt the banjo to -3 fittings of the SS lines myself).
Don't expect a HUGE difference right out of the box though. It took a few hundred miles for mine to break in (or "season"). I did notice a huge difference when I put the stockers back on though. ;-)
The positives greatly outweighed the negatives for me. Even thought the car has never seen a track in it's life, I would recommend the kit for "spirited" street driving.
Russ
I have (actually HAD) the Wilwood kit on my 94 mustang for the past year and change. I was very pleased with the kit & only removed them to sell the car. I plan on putting the calipers on my '03 cobra (which I have yet to purchase). Hopefully they're the same kit & will fit! If not, off to the market they go. You've already ordered them, so here's what you have to look forward to.
Positives:
Much shorter stopping distances with no fade...Duh.
Much improved feel. I'm guessing most of this had to do with the SS lines, but linearity of brake force improved greatly as well. I just felt more "connected" to the car. If my Wilwoods don't fit the '03, I will get the Hawk pads & some SS lines.
Negatives:
Lots more brake dust. Plan on cleaning your rims every few days.
Assembled rotors were out of true. After joining the hat & rotor, check for runout. One of mine was more than .020" out and the other was around .015" out, necessitating turning of the rotors. Nowhere in the instructions did it recommend turning them after assembly. It wasn't fun getting the whole kit installed, stepping on the brakes & having it shake like a wet dog. After turning, they felt great. You can check runout by attaching a dial indicator to a mag base & sticking it to your strut. Rotate your rotor and find high and low measurements near the outer edge. I hear it should be around .002-.004". Any more & they will shudder.
The pads occasionally squeaked a little. I don't know what compound pads I got since mine was a pre-production kit (I actually had to buy a couple fittings to adapt the banjo to -3 fittings of the SS lines myself).
Don't expect a HUGE difference right out of the box though. It took a few hundred miles for mine to break in (or "season"). I did notice a huge difference when I put the stockers back on though. ;-)
The positives greatly outweighed the negatives for me. Even thought the car has never seen a track in it's life, I would recommend the kit for "spirited" street driving.
Russ
That is not the kit NastyWS6 was talking about. That is there cheapest kit 1E7.6001A which is what the 00'R Cobra came with it has 1-piece plain 13" rotors and 4-piston Brembo calipers. They sell other kits with 2-piece rotors, which are much better, in 13" or 14" rotors which are much more expensive. I don't think they have any kits other then the 4-piston calipers for the Mustangs.
Here are all the kits for the 1994> Mustangs.
1E7.6001A 330x28 1-Piece Plain 1,095.00
1E4.6001A 330x28 1-Piece Drilled 1,195.00
1E5.6001A 330x28 1-Piece Slotted 1,195.00
1E1.6001A 328x28 2-Piece Drilled or Slotted 2,195.00
121.7002A 332x32 2-Piece Drilled or Slotted 2,995.00
1B1.8001A 355x32 2-Piece Drilled or Slotted 3,295.00
What Hawk pads is everybody recommend I was planning on just going with the HPS Plus and stainless lines on my 03 for now.
Let's add to the brake thread. I got my wilwood's. They look very nice, good finish. Now I have to install them. I ordered the wilwood ss lines, but they are not DOT approved. I am trying to decide if I should have custom lines made by earls or goodridge, or just keep the ones I have. I have read that DOT lines have specific guidelines, and if a ss line doesn't have these specs, it is not approved, EVEN if it is better quality. So, are the wilwood's better quality? I have no idea, so that's why I ask opinions. Ditch the wilwood lines for some high quality custom ones, or keep them? That is the question. Also got my eradispeed rotors for the rear, they look almost identical to the wilwoods. I think there is misconception about the wilwood rotor thickness. It is 32 mm (1.25"). Nice and thick.
I want to upgrade the front lines with a stainless line. Where can you only get just the lines from? Like to also get a duct cooling setup for when I am on the track.
I had replaced the pads all around with Hawk Pro Plus Street. The front calipers were replaced but the master brake cylinder cap was left off for a day and moisture got in the fluid, no not by me. After a hard day of highspeed highway driving and another day at the SVTOA event in Tulsa, my brakes failed. The fluid was trash and I had to drain and replace it.
Firm believer now in replacing the fluid on a frequent basis.
I am at 11,500 miles when it happened, there was another 03 Cobra that had the same failure and he has about the same milage on his.
I had replaced the pads all around with Hawk Pro Plus Street. The front calipers were replaced but the master brake cylinder cap was left off for a day and moisture got in the fluid, no not by me. After a hard day of highspeed highway driving and another day at the SVTOA event in Tulsa, my brakes failed. The fluid was trash and I had to drain and replace it.
Firm believer now in replacing the fluid on a frequent basis.
I am at 11,500 miles when it happened, there was another 03 Cobra that had the same failure and he has about the same milage on his.
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I buy most of my road and track stuff like suspension and brakes from Maximum Motorsports they race what they sell and have great customer service. They have a kit coming out, but it is not available yet.
Front S/S hoses
As for the ducting you can make your own for like $10 at Home Depot or Lowes. If you want the real Cobra R kit SHM sells it for almost $400.00.
Cobra R ducting
You can get lines made by Earls, goodridge, or the like. I have the fitting sizes if you need to know. I just bought my custom Earl's lines from Earls Indy. The total came to about $50. Everyone else charges like $80 including Wilwood. From what I have read, Earl's are the best.
I'm jumping on this thread kind of late but would like to add some input. First off I have seven years of road racing experience ranging from SSGT to AS and have experienced the ups of good brakes and downs of inadequate brakes. In SSGT we had to run the production brakes which on a 1990 LX 5.0 were CRAP.....to put it politely. 11" rotors with 58mm single piston disc front and drum rear. I crashed and rolled at Watkins Glenn after wearing out a set of Motorsport HD pads in eleven laps......it was a twelve lap race. The pads wore completely through the backing plates and the RF piston came out of the caliper.....I was leading the race at the time. You NEVER have too much brake!! Enough of that.
I just had me 03' to the track a month ago. I had Hawk "Blue" pads with Toyo R1 tires. During one session with just three laps of HARD running, the brakes faded. I was running Hawk pads only because I didn't have any Performance Frictions at the time.
I have just been doing research on what was available in brake upgrades when I came across this post.
Before I go back to the track with my 03' I will have:
1. the 00" R carbon fiber brake duct kit (I found them for $350 by doing a search on the internet for CobraR brake duct). I think the stock brakes with proper pads, fluid and cooling would be adequit for MOST drivers.
2. stainless brake hoses (I should have had them on the first time...I know better....but I couldn't find them for the 03' when I was getting ready to go). The stock rubber ones swell under heat and have been known to fail from it.
3. Performance Friction 83 pads (if I can find them....they don't make the 83's anymore). They wear reasonably well, are friendly on the rotors, have a high coefficient of drag that doesn't require heavy pedal effort and don't seem to conduct the heat to the caliper like the Hawk pads do. I have run: PFC 83's, 90's and 93's ; Hawk HPS, Blue and Black ; Porterfield endurence. I prefer the PF pads.
I have also experimented with several types of brake fluids over the years and had the best luck with the Ford HD brake fluid. I do bleed the brakes before I go to the track.
No...you can't go wrong by upgrading the brakes to a 4 or 6 piston qualty system. The more even brake pressure applied to the pads the more affective they operate. But the extra expense of upgrading may not be necessary. I know they do look cool as shit though. My car will only see very limited track time and at this time I feel the upgrades I plan are all that is needed....for now.
Oh yeah....I don't run the same pads on the street as I do on the track.
I just had me 03' to the track a month ago. I had Hawk "Blue" pads with Toyo R1 tires. During one session with just three laps of HARD running, the brakes faded. I was running Hawk pads only because I didn't have any Performance Frictions at the time.
I have just been doing research on what was available in brake upgrades when I came across this post.
Before I go back to the track with my 03' I will have:
1. the 00" R carbon fiber brake duct kit (I found them for $350 by doing a search on the internet for CobraR brake duct). I think the stock brakes with proper pads, fluid and cooling would be adequit for MOST drivers.
2. stainless brake hoses (I should have had them on the first time...I know better....but I couldn't find them for the 03' when I was getting ready to go). The stock rubber ones swell under heat and have been known to fail from it.
3. Performance Friction 83 pads (if I can find them....they don't make the 83's anymore). They wear reasonably well, are friendly on the rotors, have a high coefficient of drag that doesn't require heavy pedal effort and don't seem to conduct the heat to the caliper like the Hawk pads do. I have run: PFC 83's, 90's and 93's ; Hawk HPS, Blue and Black ; Porterfield endurence. I prefer the PF pads.
I have also experimented with several types of brake fluids over the years and had the best luck with the Ford HD brake fluid. I do bleed the brakes before I go to the track.
No...you can't go wrong by upgrading the brakes to a 4 or 6 piston qualty system. The more even brake pressure applied to the pads the more affective they operate. But the extra expense of upgrading may not be necessary. I know they do look cool as shit though. My car will only see very limited track time and at this time I feel the upgrades I plan are all that is needed....for now.
Oh yeah....I don't run the same pads on the street as I do on the track.
Great to have you. If you can't find the 83 pads for the track what would you use? Also what do you recommend for the streets then if you don't like the Hawks? You can make your own brake ducting kit for much cheaper then the Cobra R if you wanted to, but that is a personal decision.
I will run the 93 pads if I can't get the 83's. I prefer an agressive pad that comes on quick and doesn't require very hevy pedal effort.
Probably for a street pad...I am going to try the EBC green pad. I don't have any automotive experience with these pads but have read some very good reports on them. They bite quick, have a decent temperature range and aren't supposed to make much dust. I have tried all three of EBC's pads (green, red and gold) on one of my MTB's with very good results.
I have made brake ducts for my race car several times before but nothing that would hold up to frequent street driving (turning the wheels alot). I called Griggs yesterday because they advertise a brake duct kit for about $189 but didn't have any pictures. Unfortunately their kit only includes the adapter to direct the cooling hose at the center of the rotor. I like the design of the "R" kit because it replaces the shield on the back of the rotor with a funnel type piece that forces the air to the center of the entire rotor. The kit also includes brackets to fasten the ducts so they move back and forth with the steering to eliminate the tires from rubbing on them. I really don't need carbon fiber or want to pay for carbon fiber but haven't found anything better as of yet. I am open to suggestions
Probably for a street pad...I am going to try the EBC green pad. I don't have any automotive experience with these pads but have read some very good reports on them. They bite quick, have a decent temperature range and aren't supposed to make much dust. I have tried all three of EBC's pads (green, red and gold) on one of my MTB's with very good results.
I have made brake ducts for my race car several times before but nothing that would hold up to frequent street driving (turning the wheels alot). I called Griggs yesterday because they advertise a brake duct kit for about $189 but didn't have any pictures. Unfortunately their kit only includes the adapter to direct the cooling hose at the center of the rotor. I like the design of the "R" kit because it replaces the shield on the back of the rotor with a funnel type piece that forces the air to the center of the entire rotor. The kit also includes brackets to fasten the ducts so they move back and forth with the steering to eliminate the tires from rubbing on them. I really don't need carbon fiber or want to pay for carbon fiber but haven't found anything better as of yet. I am open to suggestions
Darin,
What are you going to upgrade to as far as rotors? I don't see a caliper upgrade as doing alot for brake fade unless you are going to 14" rotors or a substantial upgrade in the 13" so the heat can get disipated better?
I have Brembo's kit, two hard laps at Road America and I also begin to get a soft pedal also in my 95R. I am taking it as more of a cooling issue than the braking system problem. (also just added ducts, so hopefully it will be ok now) Rotor choices are kinda limited, any suggestions?
What are you going to upgrade to as far as rotors? I don't see a caliper upgrade as doing alot for brake fade unless you are going to 14" rotors or a substantial upgrade in the 13" so the heat can get disipated better?
I have Brembo's kit, two hard laps at Road America and I also begin to get a soft pedal also in my 95R. I am taking it as more of a cooling issue than the braking system problem. (also just added ducts, so hopefully it will be ok now) Rotor choices are kinda limited, any suggestions?
I feel that with proper pads and cooling the stock 13' rotors should be fine. Our spec brakes for my A/S car were 12" rotors (13" Brembos cut to 12") with PBR 2 piston calipers. We were allowed 11" rear rotors but I did just fine with the Motorsport disc conversion which I think was only 10". Our rotors were not allowed to be slotted or drilled and I have never read good things about either. With good brake ducts, pads and proper bleeding of fluid reliability of the brakes was not an issue. My A/S car with driver weighed about 3400#.
If I was going to do many track times I would have a set of the stock Brembo rotors frozen. I have seen them run in 3 hr endurance races without any problems and still be useable.
Here is some good brake reading that I came across while searching for info on 03' brake options.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
If I was going to do many track times I would have a set of the stock Brembo rotors frozen. I have seen them run in 3 hr endurance races without any problems and still be useable.
Here is some good brake reading that I came across while searching for info on 03' brake options.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
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Has anyone ever heard of Mirage Motorsports???:shrug: I came across a picture of a brake duct adapter that they make for the 96' and up Cobra. This unit fastens to the spindle where the original shield was and looks like it would be perfect for what I want. The only problem is when I click on the web link it gives me an error message. Any info you could pass on, city, phone #, anything that would help me get a hold of them.
they went out of business as I understand, thus the need to make the duct kit or buy the carbon fiber from SHM. 
People that have the mirage setup seemed to like them, but so far nobody has steped up to the plate to take their place.
Brian
People that have the mirage setup seemed to like them, but so far nobody has steped up to the plate to take their place. Brian
I will try and find the picture I ran across of their adapter and post it here. It looks like it was a simple but affective bracket.
Found it.:beer:
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