Any idea of a total price for pulley, bearing, shipping etc all included when it's all said and done?
Bringing the 4lb Caged lower back from the Dead?
- Thread starter cj428mach
- Start date
Any idea of a total price for pulley, bearing, shipping etc all included when it's all said and done?
I've tested a 2.75 and 6lb lower on my ride. It made some nice torque, lol
Mike, I got the bearings from rock auto, timken bearings PN 907257 for like $18 a piece. Its a direct replacement and timken has a good track record.
I appreciate it Sam and I thought the same thing.
Except Rock Auto lists the #907257 and #6559469 as being the same bearing but with different bearing widths. My pulley is being designed off the #6559469 bearing so the snap ring will fit it tight. I want to thank KLLR SNK for pointing out the difference to me when we were talking. I assumed if the bearing crossed over to another brand it would have identical specs so I had never considered it. This is one of the reasons I want to provide the bearing to make sure there is no issues.
On the traditional lower pulley either bearing would work fine, but the 6559469 is just a hair cheaper anyways. I figure people would feel good to know they're getting an AC Delco (Timken) bearing not just the cheapest bearing I can find.
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I hate to say exactly because until I have the final bill anything can change. If the shop holds to their quote it should be less than $500. I'll do my best to get it lower than that.
There will only be 8 pulleys available for sale in this production run.
I hope to do a second larger run where the potential to get the price down will happen but if a person wants a caged 4lb lower I suggest they grab one now. You never know what may happen, my shop may decide they don't want to make anymore, I might not bother to make anymore, or I might get hit by a bus lol.
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Depending on actual final price, I may be in for one.
Sam, you've been a good friend and if you want one you bet I'll save one for you.
Awesome Mike! As soon as you get the final price let me know and I'll make the decision right away. Its much appreciated.
Please continue to keep me in mind. I am still interested.
Great job! from what i can see everything looks good so far. I think we got the right guy for the job on this one and like how your on top of all the details. Just like how i would do it. Dont forget to put me down for one.
I have cash in hand whenever these are ready. I cant make enough boost without a lower lol.
I'm glad to see that there is some interest.
The plan is to get all 10 of the pulleys, and at least get one on a test mule which I guess will be my car. My car only has 10,000 miles on it so it probably won't get a ton of test miles but I will go out and beat on it, lol. If Wafflemans car is ready to go we'll run 2 test mules.
Once I know the pulley fits, and it can handle the abuse our Cobras can throw at it the remaining will be available to purchase. So stay tuned, and I do appreciate the people who have shown interest from the start.
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I ordered the bearings last night there shouldn't be any delay on my end.
The plan is to get all 10 of the pulleys, and at least get one on a test mule which I guess will be my car. My car only has 10,000 miles on it so it probably won't get a ton of test miles but I will go out and beat on it, lol. If Wafflemans car is ready to go we'll run 2 test mules.
Once I know the pulley fits, and it can handle the abuse our Cobras can throw at it the remaining will be available to purchase. So stay tuned, and I do appreciate the people who have shown interest from the start.
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I ordered the bearings last night there shouldn't be any delay on my end.
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If you need another test mule im open! lol. My car has 42k miles and gets driven a couple days a week.
Put me down as a definite for one of these.
I got an email on Friday from MMT saying the pulleys are at the anodizing shop and they're saying 3 weeks. Nothing we can do about it but wait.
I've been thinking a little bit about trying to get pictures of all the parts in order to help better explain how these pulleys are put together. I know interested people will need assistance in disassembly.
I've been thinking a little bit about trying to get pictures of all the parts in order to help better explain how these pulleys are put together. I know interested people will need assistance in disassembly.
my funds are setting here waiting also sir.
The new bearings arrived.
MMT told me to bring them by next week so when the pulleys arrive the bearings can be pressed in.
I also took some pics of the caged lower to hopefully better understand how these pulleys are disassembled.
Here is a complete stock caged lower.
When it comes to the home disassembler i recommend holding the lower in the vice like this
You can see how a single post on the tri-bar assembly is in the jaws of the vice. If you tighten the vice the lower will pinch on the tri-bar post as its the thicker than the pulley.
Here is how the caged lower pulley assembly is held in the vice for disassembly, I just removed the pulley for easier viewing.
Next heat the tri-bar assembly around where the shaft goes, you can see the discolored area on this tri-bar assembly where I heated it.
Sometimes a lot of heat is necesssary, I usually heat until I have it hot enough that the impact will zip it apart with ease as the more the impact hits the more you're tearing up the 14mm hex hole in the lower. This one I got hot enough that the bushings stayed on fire for a while after removing the heat lol.
After heating the tri-bar thread the shaft out with a 14mm socket turning it in a counter clockwise motion and you'll be left with these parts
Cage with center bolt, rubber grommets, and 3 tang flang removed
Center bolt, rubber grommets, and 3 tang flang
Center bolt
The bearing that is pressed into the original pulley is staked to the lower pulley bracket. Here is a close up showing the staked area around the bearing
You must grind off these stakes and in my opinion try your best to leave to much material rather than grind off to much. The extra material will make restaking easier.
Once the stakes are removed I suggest driving the lower bracket off the pulley with an old junk socket and a hammer. The center bore of the shaft where the pulley mounts is tapered so it works perfectly for fitting a socket/pipe into for the purposes of driving the bracket out of the bearing. If nothing is wanting to budge don't be afraid to put a little heat on the bearing as you'll be installing a new one anyways.
Cage after pulley removed
Once thats removed it is ready for reassembly with new parts, hopefully for some a 4lb caged pulley :beer:. Here is more or less a complete lower disassembled.
Its not very hard or even time consuming if you have access to a torch. An impact, torch and press make it cake.
MMT told me to bring them by next week so when the pulleys arrive the bearings can be pressed in.
I also took some pics of the caged lower to hopefully better understand how these pulleys are disassembled.
Here is a complete stock caged lower.
When it comes to the home disassembler i recommend holding the lower in the vice like this
You can see how a single post on the tri-bar assembly is in the jaws of the vice. If you tighten the vice the lower will pinch on the tri-bar post as its the thicker than the pulley.
Here is how the caged lower pulley assembly is held in the vice for disassembly, I just removed the pulley for easier viewing.
Next heat the tri-bar assembly around where the shaft goes, you can see the discolored area on this tri-bar assembly where I heated it.
Sometimes a lot of heat is necesssary, I usually heat until I have it hot enough that the impact will zip it apart with ease as the more the impact hits the more you're tearing up the 14mm hex hole in the lower. This one I got hot enough that the bushings stayed on fire for a while after removing the heat lol.
After heating the tri-bar thread the shaft out with a 14mm socket turning it in a counter clockwise motion and you'll be left with these parts
Cage with center bolt, rubber grommets, and 3 tang flang removed
Center bolt, rubber grommets, and 3 tang flang
Center bolt
The bearing that is pressed into the original pulley is staked to the lower pulley bracket. Here is a close up showing the staked area around the bearing
You must grind off these stakes and in my opinion try your best to leave to much material rather than grind off to much. The extra material will make restaking easier.
Once the stakes are removed I suggest driving the lower bracket off the pulley with an old junk socket and a hammer. The center bore of the shaft where the pulley mounts is tapered so it works perfectly for fitting a socket/pipe into for the purposes of driving the bracket out of the bearing. If nothing is wanting to budge don't be afraid to put a little heat on the bearing as you'll be installing a new one anyways.
Cage after pulley removed
Once thats removed it is ready for reassembly with new parts, hopefully for some a 4lb caged pulley :beer:. Here is more or less a complete lower disassembled.
Its not very hard or even time consuming if you have access to a torch. An impact, torch and press make it cake.
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Mike,
For those purchasing your pulley they could skip the step of removing the bearing from the lower pulley and un staking it right? They could simply set that assembly aside and install your new pulley and bearing combo.
For those purchasing your pulley they could skip the step of removing the bearing from the lower pulley and un staking it right? They could simply set that assembly aside and install your new pulley and bearing combo.
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