Can you wet sand the 03/04 Cobra's?

Jstaats

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I have heard that the clear is too thin and you can not wet sand the 03 Cobra's. I bought this Cobra a year ago and it was some water marks in the clear and they will not come out with wax/etc. The paint is super clean but bothers me once you see it in certain light/angles.


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Staats
 

f2hatch

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As long as you know what you are doing you can. I wet sanded mine just fine but I was a body man for over 10 years. Don't go any lower then 2000 grit especially just for water spots. I went 1500 grit stepped up to 2000 grit but I was getting rid of the factory orange peel. Get A nice wool pad, green pad, white pad and the polishes to go with them. Presta came out with some nice stuff made just for wet sanding and buffing. Half the price of 3M and works/cuts better too.
 

pwrshft99

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Clay bar has always been enough to get almost anything out for me... too scared to try wetsanding
 

EvilBlack

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Try some buffing or cutting compound first. As a matter of fact, it might be work taking to get a professional opinion.
 

Sick SVT

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I have heard that the clear is too thin and you can not wet sand the 03 Cobra's. I bought this Cobra a year ago and it was some water marks in the clear and they will not come out with wax/etc. The paint is super clean but bothers me once you see it in certain light/angles.


Thanks,
Staats

That is incorrect. Get some 2000 grit sandpaper, bottle of rubbing compound, and wax. Wet the area thoroughly and apply water to the sandpaper. Water is your friend. Lightly scuff the area. It doesnt take much pressure at all to get rid of surface stuff. Depending on the size of the area you sand you may not even need a buffer. A little elbow grease with the rubbing compound and you will be fine. Finish off with the wax and your done :banana:
 
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JustaGT

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I want to get a the top of my car wet sanded due to water spots in the clear as well but I'm too scared to attempt this on my own.
 

SmokinCobra420

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I want to get a the top of my car wet sanded due to water spots in the clear as well but I'm too scared to attempt this on my own.

i use 3m perfect it stage 1,2,3 with the recommended pads and it works GREAT! like stated before it is pricy, but i get a great deal on body shop products from a buddy who works for a local dealer
 

Snake Plissken

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Make sure you use wax & grease remover first! and what ever you do DON'T FINGER SAND! Use a soft block. Been doing body work since the mid-70s, back when the highest grit 3m paper was 600!, when trucks and vans were the only vehicles with enamel paint and water based, that's what the kids used in grade school. that'll tell ya how long I've been around. lol!.......oh crap, I gotta go change my Depends!

.
 

black 10th vert

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Make sure you use wax & grease remover first! and what ever you do DON'T FINGER SAND! Use a soft block. Been doing body work since the mid-70s, back when the highest grit 3m paper was 600!, when trucks and vans were the only vehicles with enamel paint and water based, that's what the kids used in grade school. that'll tell ya how long I've been around. lol!.......oh crap, I gotta go change my Depends!

.

^ that is one of the most important steps in addition to what Al (F2hatch) above said. If you don't use a flexible block, you will likely cut through the clear, or not get the best reflective surface, which is without ripples. The only thing I can add for an inexperienced person, is to stay away from body lines/creases. For one thing, the clear is ALWAYS thinnest there because of how paint flows on surfaces (physics). The other reason is that when you get close to an edge by sanding, you will wear more into it with the buffer trying to get the sanding haze gone, and will end up cutting through with the pad, even if you didn't when you were sanding. Honestly, the thickness of clear is very hit or miss with these cars, so unless you have someone do it who has experience sanding factory finishes, I would just go with a more aggressive compound/pad setup with a buffer. Still take care around the creases, though, either way!;-)
 

termin80r

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been doin paint and body work for about 4 years now, been to school for it and all that good stuff. as far as water spots, that doesnt require wet sanding. a clar bar should be plenty and if clay doesnt do it, you may try some hand glaze. wet sanding and buffing cuts clear coat. if youre scared youll burn thru take it to a body shop. if they burn thru itll be on them, not you. thats about the best answer ive got.
 

04DeadShort

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When I bought my Lightning it had some pretty bad water spots in it. I used some 3M rubbing compound (which is pretty much just some micro finish) and alot of elbow grease. I went back over it with some cleaner wax, then the final wax. My truck looks better than new now.
 

oldmodman

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