Car is running again

[haskett]

Almost exactly a year ago, I toasted the engine at the track. This past weekend I got the new engine running and today it came off of the stands and drove for the first time.

Thanks to everyone who has provided advice along the way.

I've done a number of engines, but I'm always learning. Here's major lessons learned from this experience...

1. Make sure the oil dipstick is installed BEFORE dropping the engine
2. Take lots of pictures of the disassembly process. I took over a hundred, but still found a few places where I really could have used more
3. Bearings for our engines are not easy to get. As soon as you are certain of how the crank and rod ends are turned, order parts because they might take a while to get. Also, when ordering, make sure that you are getting the correct parts. I had four sets of bearings shipped to me before I got the right ones.
4. Stay on top of the machine shop constantly. They take 10x longer than they say they will.
5. Take your time, it's a very long process that involves short bouts of intense activity filled inbetween with long stretches of waiting on the machine shop and waiting on parts
6. When things aren't going well, put the tools down and quit for the day
7. Use a garden sprayer and assorted fittings to pre-oil the engine

 

[Blk4V00GT]

Congrats on getting her running and back on the road man. :beer:

 

[haskett]

Some more info to help people out...

To drain the fuel from the system...

1. Release the fuel system pressure
2. Remove the fuel filter inbetween the fuel tank and the diff
3. Connect a hose from the tank line to a remote gas can
4. Disconnect the fuel tank wiring harness at the rear bumper
5. Using a 12v power source, feed positive into the Brown/Pink wire and feed ground into the Red/Black wire. The last connection should be made away from the car (at the source), not at the harness, just in case it sparks. NOTE: I had a fuel extinguisher on hand for this. I also used my battery to power the fuel pump.

Parts numbers...

• Manley -18cc pistons 594220C-8 (0.020" over)
• Manley rings 46620-8
• ARP main stud kit 156-5401
• ARP hex head studs 156-4101
• MMR Sidebolt & washer kit 400025A
• Main bearings: Mahle Clevite tri-metal MS2007H.25 (0.25mm over) Note: These have the correct tangs on the bearings. I had a really hard time getting the right parts.
• Connecting rod bearings: Sealed Power (Federal Mogul) 8-1985A.25MM (0.25mm over) Note: These are aluminum bearings. I used these due to unavailability of the tri-metal, which are preferred.
• Pilot bearing: National FC-68329
• Input shaft bearing: Timken 614041
• Centerforce 10-spline DF clutch kit 800075 Note: This has the clutch only, no bearings or flywhee
• Ford factory oil slinger F65Z-6310-A
• GM supercharger fluid 12345982, Qty 2 (4 oz each)
• Lokar flexible dipstick & tube ED-5014 Note: The measuring area on the dipstick is very slick and almost impossible to get a reading from. I used my original dipstick with the Lokar tube.

One more thing that I learned.... Ford now sells part number F3LY-6214-A as replacement rod bolts. These are not ARP bolts like what came in our engine from the factory!

 

[KILRSVT]

Wow what a deal of things to keep up with I think when my motor goes kaboom I'll be ordering a alluminim long block from somewhere... Lol

 

[StevemcQueen]

Nice job. Just in time for spring. Have fun.