Ah! Okay... that makes sense. I appreciate the heads-up on that one. I thought it slipped because of how far into the crank case it extended.
Long story short, the timing chain was off by one tooth when reinstalled so it threw the timing way out of whack. Pics of vice grips holding the cams in place, which also made marks on them my mechanic said when cams were installed. My mechanic told me the cams where 17 and 18 degrees off after the motor blew. Radiator fluid poured out of the motor when disassembled, it was a bad day !! It happened on my first day of vacation to add salt to the wound.Man, that's not cool at all. Sorry to hear about that. Man... Cams on the 4.6 are so easy to do too. How the hell did he screw that job up so bad?
Its replacement with a sleeved block is only going to set me back 7k...nothing huge. lol
Is anyone else getting that weird nervous feeling looking at this thread?
Is there some explanation for that or is it a weak spot in the Coyote block?
This is a weakness of the stock coyote block from 11-14. 15+ seem to be holding much more power without breaking. But there were multiple factors that make it hard to tell what happened exactly. The car was on 91 octane...could have been bad gas. Could have made too much boost...not sure but all test pulls prior held fine at 10-11psi. Could have detonated...never had a problem with detonation on all the pulls i did prior to it blowing. One of the main reasons (i think) is that my thrust bearing was worn the f out and either fell out of place or had already fallen out of place causing lots of crank movement front to back. The spark plug for that cylinder had broken its ceramic core and sent that shit through my motor scoring up all my pistons...it actually looks like something (like the ceramic pieces) got lodged between piston skirt and cylinder wall, creating a pressure point which blew out the water jacket like that.
Some pics of the legendary 6r80!!! lol