Clutch Issues/Questions

[paulyboy928]

Soooo a couple of weeks ago I installed some headers and whenever I finished I noticed a vibration in the drivetrain thought the RPM range. At some points it was so bad it would rattle the dash.... So I began taking it apart and what i believe is the culprit is a broken dowel pin (if not then let me know.)

Side notes: - I have never dropped a trans before.
- I'm going to have the flywheel resurfaced
- I'm going to replace bolts with arp hardware.
- Clutch/flywheel has 10k miles
- Shop installed clutch/flywheel


Couple of questions too..

1) Anything look out of the ordinary wear wise? down below are the flywheel, clutch (both sides), and pressure plate.

2) Where can I find arp pressure plate bolts? I can find the flywheel bolts.

3) Any idea on where I can get a replacement dowel? I'm going to call exedy next week and see what they say.

4) How the hell did this happen?

Broken dowel

Flywheel wear

Clutch wear (both sides)

Pressure plate (some dust on it from the barn)

 

[MG0h3]

I’d say loose pressure plate bolts.


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[paulyboy928]

5 of them seemed to be torqued. There was one that was relatively easy to remove, though.

Also, does anyone know where I can get an exedra clutch alignment tool?

 

[MG0h3]

Lethal has them. Might be quicker through summit or jegs though.

Are you sure the dowel didn't just get pressed out the back? Not all flywheels allow that but some will.

 

[Mojo88]

Why did you remove the clutch if the problem started after you installed headers???? I was gonna suggest you might have some part of a new header contacting the frame, which would cause significant NVH issue.

Are you going to re-use the clutch? If so, I would have the flywheel turned. I would also have the flywheel and pressure plate (new or used) mated, and balanced, just because it's easy to do now, and to eliminate any possible source of NVH from the assembly.

 

[paulyboy928]

Why did you remove the clutch if the problem started after you installed headers???? I was gonna suggest you might have some part of a new header contacting the frame, which would cause significant NVH issue.

Are you going to re-use the clutch? If so, I would have the flywheel turned. I would also have the flywheel and pressure plate (new or used) mated, and balanced, just because it's easy to do now, and to eliminate any possible source of NVH from the assembly.

Because it was drivetrain related. It's not a rattle underneath the car, it's a full on vibration that I can feel though the shifter, pedals, and steering wheel. I guess I should've stated that since the clutch install, there has been a little vibration but not much. After the headers it was unbearable.

All of the primaries are clear and have plenty of room.

Yes, I'm going to re-use it. It only has 10k miles on it. I had definitely planned to turn the flywheel. Where can I get them mated and balanced? Same place that will turn it?

 

[paulyboy928]

Lethal has them. Might be quicker through summit or jegs though.

Are you sure the dowel didn't just get pressed out the back? Not all flywheels allow that but some will.

Positive. It's a stepped dowel and snapped at the step.

 

[Mojo88]

Because it was drivetrain related. It's not a rattle underneath the car, it's a full on vibration that I can feel though the shifter, pedals, and steering wheel. I guess I should've stated that since the clutch install, there has been a little vibration but not much. After the headers it was unbearable.

All of the primaries are clear and have plenty of room.

Yes, I'm going to re-use it. It only has 10k miles on it. I had definitely planned to turn the flywheel. Where can I get them mated and balanced? Same place that will turn it?

Well, I still suspect you have some part of the exhaust hitting the frame/body, especially after your comments here, when you stated (regarding the vibration), "After the headers it was unbearable". These contact areas can be difficult to see or find, so I suggest looking VERY closely from front to rear, and whacking/nudging on the exhaust pipes with your hand to see if you hear any contact.

Virtually every machine shop will be able to resurface the flywheel, and many of those same shops will have balancer. With vibration issues like you are having I would DEFINITELY get those heavy rotating pieces balanced up. Hopefully that fixes you right up!

Please keep posting. I'm curious to see what fixes this. Good luck with it. Good news is: it seems like you are on the right track.

EDIT: Just for the heckuvit, check your damper on front of crank and make sure it's OK.

2nd EDIT: check the pilot bushing too. They are cheap. I'd replace it.

 

[paulyboy928]

Will do on all of the above. Going to a shop here today to see if they have a matching dowel. Said they would take a peek at it.

Also ordred a new pilot bearing. Whats the easiest way to remove it? Slide hammer or bread? Lol

 

[paulyboy928]

What're the torque specs for OEM pressure plate bolts?

 

[paulyboy928]

So I got everything back together. Got the flywheel refinished, new dowels, new pilot bearing ARP flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.

The RPM related vibrations are gone but there's still a speed related vibration. I'm going to re balance the tires and check the driveshaft next week so see whats going on.

 

[Mojo88]

So I got everything back together. Got the flywheel refinished, new dowels, new pilot bearing ARP flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts.

The RPM related vibrations are gone but there's still a speed related vibration. I'm going to re balance the tires and check the driveshaft next week so see whats going on.

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You gotta be happy about that!

Now jack up wheels one at a time and rotate slowly by hand, to see if a wheel is bent or tire may have out-of-round condition. I use a dial caliper to confirm...... If all looks good, get balanced up at a good shop. Check u-joints too, not sure if you have one-piece shaft or not. Driveline angles sometimes come into play as well, depending on how much you've modded things in the rear. Bent axle always possible if you've been putting down lots of power with sticky tires.

Very happy to hear the news about RPM related vibrations. It's always nice to have a smooth running engine!

 

[paulyboy928]

Put the car on the lift and took the wheels & tires off to go get a fresh balance tomorrow.

Also, Mojo88, you were right. I noticed one of the primaries was making the slightest contact with the frame on the passenger side. I'll have to take care of that as well...

Maybe one day it will be fixed!

 

[justinsstang]

I just replaced my clutch and all 3 factory dowel pins were broken off in the flywheel. I punched them out and didn't use any dowel pins for my new Mach 500. 0 vibration, 0 chatter.

 

[paulyboy928]

Any reason why you didn't use them?

 

[Mojo88]

What is the purpose of the dowel pins anyway? I've done tons of GM style clutches and they (pressure plates) all utilize shoulder bolts which align the PP correctly.

I have a small shake in my engine at 4k rpm and above. I am suspecting the flywheel or clutch assembly is just a tick out of balance. I think I am gonna pull it apart and get those pieces balanced up.

 

[paulyboy928]

They help align the flywheel and pressure plate correctly and add support. The way I look at it, if ford designed it that way, there must be a reason.