I have used the search and couldn't find what I was looking for. I was wondering which clutch would be better? Ram Premium replacement or Exedy stage 1? My car is stock for the most part and not looking to add much power in the near future and is daily driven. Thanks in advace.
Clutch opinions
- Thread starter 71986
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It depends on what year/model mustang you have. There are a few manual transmissions used in the sn95 and new edge mustangs.
I have a Ram HDX clutch for sale if you are interested. Brand new in box. I had originally bought it to put in my '01 bullitt (tr-3650 transmission) but decided that I am upgrading to a 26 spline input shaft and have no use for it. PM me if interested.
I have a Ram HDX clutch for sale if you are interested. Brand new in box. I had originally bought it to put in my '01 bullitt (tr-3650 transmission) but decided that I am upgrading to a 26 spline input shaft and have no use for it. PM me if interested.
stay away from Spec.
http://promotionpowertrain.com/NEW_FORD_CLUTCH_PAGE.html
Call the guys at Promotion Powertain. I'm sure they have a relatively mild clutch for a close to stock car. I would either get a new flywheel, or any reputable machine shop can resurface it for you.
Most T-45's came with a 10.5" clutch disk stock, as the T-3650's had an 11" Both transmissions will accept an 11" clutch disk, so if you have an 01 and below with a T-45 just do yourself a favor and get an 11" disk.
I would also recommend changing the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball stud at the same time. The pivot ball stud inside the bellhousing does wear down over time as the clutch fork moves on it. The fork itself is probably in fine shape, however those two items wear together so it is a good idea to replace both at the same time.
Save yourself the headache and get a ford racing throw out bearing as well, all other TOB's for these cars are junk and no one wants to pull their trans out a few thousand miles later again because a noisy TOB!
Call the guys at Promotion Powertain. I'm sure they have a relatively mild clutch for a close to stock car. I would either get a new flywheel, or any reputable machine shop can resurface it for you.
Most T-45's came with a 10.5" clutch disk stock, as the T-3650's had an 11" Both transmissions will accept an 11" clutch disk, so if you have an 01 and below with a T-45 just do yourself a favor and get an 11" disk.
I would also recommend changing the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball stud at the same time. The pivot ball stud inside the bellhousing does wear down over time as the clutch fork moves on it. The fork itself is probably in fine shape, however those two items wear together so it is a good idea to replace both at the same time.
Save yourself the headache and get a ford racing throw out bearing as well, all other TOB's for these cars are junk and no one wants to pull their trans out a few thousand miles later again because a noisy TOB!
Hardest part for me is always lining everything up on the install. If you aren't careful you could have uneven wear on the components and have to do the whole thing over after a couple hundred miles. My brother did this a couple times on his car lol.
Just take your time, torque every bolt to the correct spec. Use the clutch alignment tool to get it lined up before you bolt it in place. Then it's just a matter of sliding the trans in and getting the input shaft to line up into the clutch.
The top two bolts on the bellhousing are hard to get to, the way I did it was I took the trans mount out, left the bottom bell housing bolts in that way the trans will tilt down. You're going to need about 2 feet of extensions and a swivel socket to get to the top two. Start with the ratchet all way behind the tailshaft when trying to get to them.
The starter is also another pain in the ass, getting the 3 bolts out is difficult to say the least. Putting them back in is even harder. Most leave the top bolt out and only put 2 back in.
The top two bolts on the bellhousing are hard to get to, the way I did it was I took the trans mount out, left the bottom bell housing bolts in that way the trans will tilt down. You're going to need about 2 feet of extensions and a swivel socket to get to the top two. Start with the ratchet all way behind the tailshaft when trying to get to them.
The starter is also another pain in the ass, getting the 3 bolts out is difficult to say the least. Putting them back in is even harder. Most leave the top bolt out and only put 2 back in.
Clutch Adjustment
All right I think I need a new clutch cable not a clutch. I figured out the OEM adjuster on the pedal. I pull the outside gear back, push the pedal to the floor and the adjuster goes right back where it was. I think the cable is stretched. Am I correct?
All right I think I need a new clutch cable not a clutch. I figured out the OEM adjuster on the pedal. I pull the outside gear back, push the pedal to the floor and the adjuster goes right back where it was. I think the cable is stretched. Am I correct?
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