Clutch recommendation for stock Cobra

BlownReptile

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Hey guys,

Thanks to some solid advice from some posters on my previous thread, I will be replacing the clutch in my stock '04 Cobra.

I'd like some advice on what to go with...and I think I would like to avoid getting an OEM clutch from Ford, as I may be going pullied and/or ported soon.

Any recommendations for a light feeling clutch with room to grow if and when I up the boost? My girlfriend drives the car more than I do at this point, so I would like to go with an option that is comfortable for her.

I have heard some good things about the Spec 2+ with the low pedal effort option...so far I am leaning towards that option.
 

Cobra Kai Dojo

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i have a stock cobra as well and had put in an ACT clutch kit with FR flywheel couple thousand miles ago. stock-like pedal feel and zero chatter.
 
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Ported Cobra here. I'm having my second Spec 3+ put in. First one lasted about 42k. Grabs aggressively. Put some hard miles on the previous one. It performed much better than the oem clutch. Make sure you get the low pedal option if you go that route. And don't use the Timken throw out bearing they supply. Buy a heavy duty Ford one. Also, if you buy the Spec pick it up from Lethal Performance and use the SVTPERF discount code for 5% off. They also have free shipping on these clutches.
 

Quick Strike

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I like the Spec 3+ more then the Centerforce DFX it replaced. It has better road manners.
 

cobracide

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RST. Mine has been in for over 30k miles. Light and a bit cheaper than the RXT. As long as you are not expecting to drag launch, it's fine. 26 spline.
 

GTpower01

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rxt or rst... Mecleod FTW- More money put long lasting quality!

Had a spec and had much "chattering"-Wasnt a big fan...

the RXT or RST u can have it to ur likings... Either firm when pushed down or not firm almost easier to push than stock- Good for street Up to You!
 

Mr.Venom

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Ported Cobra here. I'm having my second Spec 3+ put in. First one lasted about 42k. Grabs aggressively. Put some hard miles on the previous one. It performed much better than the oem clutch. Make sure you get the low pedal option if you go that route. And don't use the Timken throw out bearing they supply. Buy a heavy duty Ford one. Also, if you buy the Spec pick it up from Lethal Performance and use the SVTPERF discount code for 5% off. They also have free shipping on these clutches.

Thoughts on the low pedal option? I have no issues with my spec 3+ and no low pedal mod.
 
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Thoughts on the low pedal option? I have no issues with my spec 3+ and no low pedal mod.

Best way to answer this is...


Many Terminator owners are weak...so they cry and whine and complain about the effort needed to push the oem clutch pedal down with the oem clutch setup.

I'm a very strong guy...

and the low pedal option on the Spec 3+ requires even less effort from than the oem setup.

Mind you...I'm not one of these that gripes about pedal effort. But the clutch pedal catches real low with the low pedal option and over time, as the clutch pedal travel goes upward, you get a better idea of how close you are to knowing if you need a new clutch.

Those are my observations as someone who has lived with this clutch.
 

BlownReptile

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Hey guys,

I want to thank you all for the great responses. I am still leaning towards the Spec 2 + option with the low pedal effort, due to its economical price point, and my positive prior experience with Spec clutches.

I forgot to mention that I had a Spec 3 + put in 40,000 miles ago, give or take a few. Not bad at all! However, I have received untold grief from my girlfriend about how uncomfortable the Spec 3 + is to drive.

Personally, I loved every aspect of the Spec 3 +, but she drives this car now more than I do. I had originally planned on going full Whipple with our Cobra, but I picked up a project car that has continually taken priority when it comes to funds. And it's not over yet.

Again, thanks everybody.
 

Brutal Metal

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Ported Cobra here. I'm having my second Spec 3+ put in. First one lasted about 42k. Grabs aggressively. Put some hard miles on the previous one. It performed much better than the oem clutch. Make sure you get the low pedal option if you go that route.
What make's Spec's low pedal option? is it a different pressure plate?
I have a brand new 2+ clutch disc and Ford Racing TO and Pilot bearing, I need a pressure plate so if I call Spec I ask for a 2+ low pedal effort PP?
 

BlownReptile

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What make's Spec's low pedal option? is it a different pressure plate?
I have a brand new 2+ clutch disc and Ford Racing TO and Pilot bearing, I need a pressure plate so if I call Spec I ask for a 2+ low pedal effort PP?

Hey man, I believe it is a different pressure plate. I read somewhere that Spec claims it lowers the effort needed to push the pedal in by about 28%.

So, should I go 26 spline or just run with the stock 10 spline input shaft? The car is basically stock now, but once I finish throwing money at my Goat, the Cobra will start receiving more attention.

One final question. I will be replacing the TOB...should I also replace the sleeve?
 
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What make's Spec's low pedal option? is it a different pressure plate?
I have a brand new 2+ clutch disc and Ford Racing TO and Pilot bearing, I need a pressure plate so if I call Spec I ask for a 2+ low pedal effort PP?

Hey man, I believe it is a different pressure plate. I read somewhere that Spec claims it lowers the effort needed to push the pedal in by about 28%.

So, should I go 26 spline or just run with the stock 10 spline input shaft? The car is basically stock now, but once I finish throwing money at my Goat, the Cobra will start receiving more attention.

One final question. I will be replacing the TOB...should I also replace the sleeve?

That's correct. Its just a different pressure plate. They offer 3 different ones for the Spec 3+. The regular or similar to stock pedal effort one. Low pedal option one. And then there's the aluminum pressure plate option which you can also get a low pedal option on.

The effort to push down is minimal. Drastically less than stock, not that stock is a big deal. And the gear catches really low off the ground. It takes some time getting used to. And over time you have to adjust your clutch cable, because the pedal travel starts going upwards.

26spline is always a boon if you're going to do a clutch. My 10spline actually has some decent wear on the teeth. I dump the clutch pretty violently on the street when I send people a message.

Might as well do a 26spline if you are going through the cost of removing the T56.

And the Lethal throwout bearing sleeve is worth the price. I have to say though...I've compared mine to the stock sleeve and I can't tell the difference between the 2.

Also, as a side note, Spec finally stopped supplying a Timken TOB. Those just sucked. They supply one now that looks almost like the Ford heavy duty one. When I compared both, the differences were almost undecipherable. A Spec rep reported that their TOB is made by Federal Mogul. That's all the info on the TOB.
 

BlownReptile

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Thanks for the great information man. I didn't realize Spec was no longer including the Timkin TOB with their kits. I think I'm going to go ahead and pick up a Ford Racing HD TOB just to be safe. And I also added the sleeve to my order.
 

Jduane

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just installed my spec 3+ 26 spline setup this weekend and was wondered why it was grabbing so low on the pedal. they never ask me wat pp option I wanted when I ordered from Lethal Performance...:shrug: I was thinkin my clutch cable was stretched or something was wrong... How do you know for sure wat pp you have with your 3+???? Also how much free play does fork need when clutch is released?? How close should tob be to pp fingers????
 

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