@Banshee06 700+hp and 21psi on pump gas right?
Cobra dies when I try to accelerate.
- Thread starter Banshee06
- Start date
What are you using to scan for codes?
I have both hand tuner and Bosch scanner.
My hand tuner doesn’t always show codes
The Bosch is just awesome. It shows so much information and does a engine running test.
I have both hand tuner and Bosch scanner.
My hand tuner doesn’t always show codes
The Bosch is just awesome. It shows so much information and does a engine running test.
Yes and and methanol injection when in boost.
Might be worth trying to bypass the BAP just to see what happens. I've seen them go bad randomly. One of the reasons I don't like them.
Okay this is what the mobile mechanic found.
With key on fuel rail pressure was almost nothing. Start the car it goes to 35lb.
he left the car on for a few minutes without starting and the car wouldn't start.
let it clear out for a while and it started. he then checked both exhaust the passenger side smell heavy of fuel.
He tested the injectors and number 1 and two both werent working very good.
So he thinks the injectors need cleaned debris is keeping them open causing the car to run badly and to run lean and also making it run hot. So i am going to buy new 60lb injectors of the same brand and replace them.
With key on fuel rail pressure was almost nothing. Start the car it goes to 35lb.
he left the car on for a few minutes without starting and the car wouldn't start.
let it clear out for a while and it started. he then checked both exhaust the passenger side smell heavy of fuel.
He tested the injectors and number 1 and two both werent working very good.
So he thinks the injectors need cleaned debris is keeping them open causing the car to run badly and to run lean and also making it run hot. So i am going to buy new 60lb injectors of the same brand and replace them.
Do you have anyone local to you that you could swap in a working set of injectors to verify before you have to spend the money on them?
Also
Have you looked over all your coils good to make sure there were no cracks in the boot or casing?
Someone else had the same symptoms as you a while back. Had heavy fuel smell in the exhaust car would stumble and break up when trying to accelerate as well as raw fuel on a few plugs. He ended up finding breaks in the boots on several coils which was causing them to arc through the boot and misfire badly.
Just something else to look at if you haven’t already.
Ken
Also
Have you looked over all your coils good to make sure there were no cracks in the boot or casing?
Someone else had the same symptoms as you a while back. Had heavy fuel smell in the exhaust car would stumble and break up when trying to accelerate as well as raw fuel on a few plugs. He ended up finding breaks in the boots on several coils which was causing them to arc through the boot and misfire badly.
Just something else to look at if you haven’t already.
Ken
I will be installing the NEW SIEMAN DEKA 60LB EV6 flow matched injectors on Friday. Hopefully this fixes my problem.
The mechanic said this could be also why engine is building up heat the car is running lean. And the spark plugs look like it is running lean.
The mechanic said this could be also why engine is building up heat the car is running lean. And the spark plugs look like it is running lean.
Wish you luck.
After reading what mechanic did.
I’m not sure.
I know on mine if I leave key on and don’t start. It will not start after a few seconds.
I think pats plays a role.
I have to remove key and hit unlock on fob and than it starts.
After reading what mechanic did.
I’m not sure.
I know on mine if I leave key on and don’t start. It will not start after a few seconds.
I think pats plays a role.
I have to remove key and hit unlock on fob and than it starts.
This may depend more on what has been altered with modifications to fuel system
I’m not up on all that. But
I was thinking pprv delete issue which
A lot have had hose pop off or when upgrading fuel pumps
Fpdm
Bap
Things like that
Update!
Got the new Fuel Injectors in and went for a drive car still will falter and pop when accelerating.
Tech then sprayed starter fluid around the intake on passenger side where he said the two injectors were not working right. and the car imediately idled faster.
So now they say my intake gasket has a leak. and I need to pull off My KB 2.8 liquid cooled supercharger and replace the gasket. Because this making the car run lean and not accelerate and could be whey my engine gets so hot.
Does anyone if this sounds like the problem of my engine balking on acceleration and the engine getting hot?
Got the new Fuel Injectors in and went for a drive car still will falter and pop when accelerating.
Tech then sprayed starter fluid around the intake on passenger side where he said the two injectors were not working right. and the car imediately idled faster.
So now they say my intake gasket has a leak. and I need to pull off My KB 2.8 liquid cooled supercharger and replace the gasket. Because this making the car run lean and not accelerate and could be whey my engine gets so hot.
Does anyone if this sounds like the problem of my engine balking on acceleration and the engine getting hot?
If that’s the case the bucking and stalling symptoms are because it would run rich and not lean on acceleration. You would be losing boost/air on those cylinders under acceleration. The intake is under positive pressure under acceleration and if the boost/air is being lost at those cylinders from the leak the injectors would not know. The computer would still be dumping fuel in since the MAF reads the incoming air and has no way to know those cylinders are not getting their full air charge. Under idle or light throttle cruising the intake is under vacuum and may also be leaking. If it is leaking while under vacuum the cylinders would in fact be running lean. However the bucking and jerking issues you’re experiencing happening are under acceleration so they are running rich and the injectors are adding more fuel verse the ratio of air they “should” be getting. The issue with running hot is happening because it is in fact leaking under vacuum at idle and light throttle cruising as well. Running lean on those cylinders during normal idle and cruising can most definitely cause the ect to run hot.
Hopefully that explains things in a bit more detail.
So yes that is most likely your issues as they diagnosed it.
Ken
Hopefully that explains things in a bit more detail.
So yes that is most likely your issues as they diagnosed it.
Ken
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I did edit my post above to make it a bit more clear verse how I originally worded it. Just in case you read it before the edit.
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